I know that it supposedly means that the engine is original.
How do you verify that on a 66?
And does "matching numbers" also mean the transmission?
How do you verify that?

Thanks in advance!

Homer

 

you can decode your VIN. Whats your VIN? Matching numbers refers to everything on the car: paint, interior, engine etc. you can figure out the paint and stuff ike that with your data plate numbers on the door.

 

Yep, there was a site that did it for free and all, I did mine and found out all kinds of stuff, it was really cool.

As far as matching numbers goes, when people mention this they are pretty much refferring to the car having the original engine, which can bring in some big bucks.

 

Hi Homer, I'm no pro on this subject, but here is what I do know:

Numbers matching is a little more complicated than just the engine. It basically denotes the entire line card for the vehicle. Depending on what make of vehicle it can be either extremely specific, or somewhat vague. Mustangs (IMO) seem to be about an 8 on the "specific" scale. There are data tags, stampings and embossing on everything from the carburetor to the differential.

If you are interested in concours type stuff, there are some very good books on the subject. And going to the shows is incredible. The people who do this stuff are really fun to talk with.

When I was a little over 14 I started my first, and only, concours restoration of a Brittish Sports car. By the time I turned 18 I had everything done except the paint (meant completely stripping the car back to nothing) and one handle. Swore I'd never do it again. I originally bought the car to drop a 302/C4 combo in, and got (rightfully) talked out of it. I was working two jobs to try and earn the money to get everything, and going to school. Turned around, sold the car and never looked back.

My hats off to anyone who completes that kind of process. It has to be a real love affair.

 

Here's the issue.
The fellow who sold this 66 to me advertised a "numbers Matching" car.
Now, depending on what is meant by that, I don't think so.
He also said that the transmission had been "rebuilt".

Looking at the transmission and drive shaft today, I noted that about 2-3" of the drive shaft
as it enters into the Transmission was "shiny". The rest was the usual grunge.
This indicates to me that this driveshaft previously went further into the transmission.
Now, since the driveshaft can't move back and forth that much (or anywhere NEAR that much)
I believe that the transmission has been changed out recently and the overall length of the "new"
transmission is 2-3" inches Shorter than the original transmission.

When I looked to see the "numbers", I didn't see any.
Of course, I not only didn't know what numbers, I didn't know WHERE to look for them...........

Homer

 

Sounds like you are still looking for retribution. I take it the inspection didn't go well. What did your mechanic say about the transmission? If you want to get out of this deal you will need help from an expert in this field. I would suggest you get in touch with the MCA and find a judge in your area who is willing to help you out.

Bottom line, you may just be stuck. But at this point taking information off a bulliten board is not a substitute for irrefutable evidence. A certified inspector, or MCA judge can document exactly what the car is...or isn't.

BTW: I think some states still have a "cooling off period". I have no idea how that would effect your deal, but I suggest you jump on this as quick as you can.

Good luck,

 

#-match is interesting dilema. Some of us do say that car is #-match when you have original engine block and others like that true #-match is then when you can find corect codes every where (alternator, P/S-pump, caarb, etc.). Date codes are also important, so parts should be made 1 - 3 months before car. In some cases there is VIN-number or part of it or just correct part number and date code. If you own interesting car = expensive car ( Shelby Mustang, Cobra Jet Mustang, Tri-Power Corvette, Hemi Cuda etc.) then #-match is serious extra $$$$$$$$. Thats why very good re-stamped = faked #-match cars are available [:'(]

If I remeber right, in 1966 Mustang there is no VIN-code in engine block. So part numbers and date codes are the thing in your case. Buy a good book about numbers and then check your car.

 

Early Mustangs don't have matching numbers.

 

Scott, we are working at putting the evidence together.
I am pessimistic.
I am just not used to getting screwed out of many thousands of dollars.


I will look into getting the MCA involved.

Some pix are here

http://photobucket.com/albums/b256/hfelknor/

We are going to pull carpet and take more pix tomorrow.
The Mechanic will not go any further without a lot of money.
Car needs to be stripped, Charging Ckt needs to be fixed, AC doesn't work,
Power Brakes (That were advertised) need to be installed........
Lots and lots of panels, etc to be removed/replaced among other things.
His opinion..........just not worth it.

Homer

 

The problem with "numbers matching" and older cars, is that anything went at the dealerships. The dealer could change and did change any number of parts to fit what his customers were looking for. I was told that as long as it was an option for that year, then it was OK. This was at a concours car show.