Recently I converted to a roller motor and Installed link bar roller lifters.

One of the rockers started clicking after about 3000 miles.

I noticed that when I set that rocker to zero lift on the base circle of the cam and pushed down on the push rod I could push it in about 1/8" inch and it would spring back up and make a little squishing sound.

None of the other lifters do this they are rock solid.

Comp sent me a new pair of link bar roller lifters after I said the above to them. They haven't been primed or anything and I noticed that I can press the pushrod into them and they spring back up like the one I have in the car thats giving me trouble.

BUT NOW...I realize I have to pull the head to get the lifters out...CRAP!

So now I really want to make sure this lifter is bad and I cant fix the problem simply by adjusting it.


What are the symptoms of a failing lifter? Do I have one?

What If I just took that slack out of the lifter and then set my 1 turn of preload?

Thanks

-Gun

 

The persistent ticking you describe is generally the sound of a collapsed lifter. I had one in my 289 and tried to fix mine (flat tappet) and the sound went away but never could get it to run right afterwards. The cup is going to move up and down without any pressure so its not a valid test.

If you take the slack out of the lifter the corresponding valve will be stuck open, so don't do that.

 

You have to remove the heads to change the lifters?

 

I did pull the head these are link bar roller lifters and sit much higher than the stock flat-tappet lifters...

So. Of the 16 lifters the one that's clicking is the only one I can compress by hand all the others are rock solid. However both of the new lifters can be compressed by hand I hoping thats because they havent been pumped up yet.

Is there a way to test if they are going to be okay before I install them.

Thanks

-Gun

 

I recall submerging my flat lifters in oil and pumping out the bubbles before install. Maybe that will work for you?

 

I did that and I also took a syringe and forced oil through the pickup hole and it bleed out the top...although the new lifter plungers could still be compressed.

I called comp and they said there is no way to really test to see if a lifter is good before install..So now I roll the dice and hope they work

-Gun

 

Good luck.

 

Thanks!!

I got the head back on, valve preload set and Before I do the intake im hoping I can charge up the ailing battery enough to generate 20lbs of static oil pressure via starter motor...and then check to see if the new lifters primed up and are holding.

-Gun

 

Or you can turn the oil pump shaft before installing the dizzy...

 

looks like it pumped up and is working okay.

I just really hope I didnt create any new problems fixing this one.

I almost feel like bitching about the lifter design...Okay its fine that I have to pull the head to get them out somethings are just that way...But Im pissed the lifters cant be disassembled.

The rivet that holds the link bar in place also obstructs the lifter guts from being removed from the lifter. I can pull the retaining snap ring out just fine but thats it. Had the lifter been designed just a bit different one could extract the check ball and springs without pulling the lifter from the lifter bore and without removing the head. Even with the lifter removed from the engine I still cant disassemble it to see what was wrong......