hi all, i just titled this post to soaring since he was the one that advised me on this last time. you're all welcome to read, of course...

soaring, remember one of my last posts on my 302 overheating problem, when you suggested to get a recovery can that recirculates?

well, i did but i only have one question: up to the coolant reaching the recovery can i'm clear (duh) but how does the coolant get back into the rad? won't the cooling system, after purging the coolant out, start to suck itsself vacuum when cooling down, thus sucking the radiator cap seal even harder onto its seat? the way i figure it, i would need a special rad cap of some sort that allows fluid to drain back in, or is that just me being silly again? only prob is, i looked around here and there and i don't seem to find any rad cap that recirculates.

any hints? please?

hope to hear from ya soon..

 

and i do mean READ and REPLY, obviously, didn't want to sound picky...

 

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/cooling-system7.htm



How Car Cooling Systems Work

by Karim Nice




Pressure Cap
The radiator cap actually increases the boiling point of your coolant by about 45 F (25 C). How does this simple cap do this? The same way a pressure cooker increases the boiling temperature of water. The cap is actually a pressure release valve, and on cars it is usually set to 15 psi. The boiling point of water increases when the water is placed under pressure.


When the fluid in the cooling system heats up, it expands, causing the pressure to build up. The cap is the only place where this pressure can escape, so the setting of the spring on the cap determines the maximum pressure in the cooling system. When the pressure reaches 15 psi, the pressure pushes the valve open, allowing coolant to escape from the cooling system. This coolant flows through the overflow tube into the bottom of the overflow tank. This arrangement keeps air out of the system. When the radiator cools back down, a vacuum is created in the cooling system that pulls open another spring loaded valve, sucking water back in from the bottom of the overflow tank to replace the water that was expelled.

Your existing cap will work fine. They all have the vaccum relief valve that will suck in the coolant after the system cools down.

 

Thank you Clutch. Well said. However the factory rads on these old cars have a 13 pound cap. Much more than that, and you have more pressure built up than those old rads can handle. Of course, this all depends on what rad you have on the car. If you get a new Griffin aluminum rad and the specs say a 15 pounder, then obviously that is what you need to use.

 

soooooooooooo it was just me being silly i suppose.... still rather safe then sorry so thx clutch, thx soaring. just installed a high performance waterpump and a moroso recovery can. will test 2morow with some luck. if that don't work i guess its its the jegs/kaase or afr heads next up...
(really sweetheart, i really NEEEEEED new heads) lol