Steering column and engine questions
#1
Steering column and engine questions
Hey guys, I recently ended up with a FR rack and pinion setup for my 70 coupe, (YES I UNDERSTAND ITS A FR SETUP I KNOW WHAT MOST OF THE OPINIONS ARE OF THEM BUT IT WAS TOO GOOD OF A DEAL TO PASS UP.) Any who the directs for shortening the column are for their Ididit or some tilt GM column, I want to keep my original column. I called FR and asked them about it and they directed me to the very same place I got my directions from in the first place.
I have used the search function many times but haven't found much that is specific to the FR setup. Any advice on shortening the column to accept the DD shaft and u-joints is appreciated.
On a completely separate note I picked up a late model (87) 302 out of a 150. It had been in a 67 that had gotten totaled and I was told it was a roller motor, it is not. However, I was curious how difficult it would be to add a roller setup to it. I popped off the intake and found some interesting threads in the lifter valley. Am I correct in assuming that these holes are what hold down the dog bones for roller lifters? Also what is the deal with the gaping hole by the distributor?
I have used the search function many times but haven't found much that is specific to the FR setup. Any advice on shortening the column to accept the DD shaft and u-joints is appreciated.
On a completely separate note I picked up a late model (87) 302 out of a 150. It had been in a 67 that had gotten totaled and I was told it was a roller motor, it is not. However, I was curious how difficult it would be to add a roller setup to it. I popped off the intake and found some interesting threads in the lifter valley. Am I correct in assuming that these holes are what hold down the dog bones for roller lifters? Also what is the deal with the gaping hole by the distributor?
#2
Yes the threads are for the spider spring. I prefer link bar style lifters, more reliable. The hole is for oil drain, they usually look pretty rough in the factor blocks....makes you wonder if they just made the drain holes with a hammer sometimes.
Shortening a column is pretty standard, cut it in the right spot so you can fit the joint properly. Not really specific to a brand. As I recall, the factory columns were splined though....which makes fitting the factory type joint a pia. The aftermarket columns use a rectangular shaft and a u-joint that slips over and is held in place with a set screw.
Shortening a column is pretty standard, cut it in the right spot so you can fit the joint properly. Not really specific to a brand. As I recall, the factory columns were splined though....which makes fitting the factory type joint a pia. The aftermarket columns use a rectangular shaft and a u-joint that slips over and is held in place with a set screw.
#3
Thank you for the reply. And you are 100% right in thinking that they used hammers to make oil passages. I popped off my intake on the other 302 i have and they look similar. I guess we will have to think of it as stripping down for weight for racing or something.
As far as the steering column is concerned my 70 steering shaft has a rag joint that disconnects at the steering box so i don't think that it is splined. I also have a piece of steel tube, DD on end and square on the other making it a total of 18" in length. Do I cut off my rag joint on the end of my column and slide the shaft over it in its place for the u-joint to attach to? Any pictures would be immensely helpful.
As far as the steering column is concerned my 70 steering shaft has a rag joint that disconnects at the steering box so i don't think that it is splined. I also have a piece of steel tube, DD on end and square on the other making it a total of 18" in length. Do I cut off my rag joint on the end of my column and slide the shaft over it in its place for the u-joint to attach to? Any pictures would be immensely helpful.
#4
It's splined on the rag joint. On the box for sure, I think on the column too, can't remember for certain. There's a set screw that goes into a groove on the spline and holds it in place, so you have to find it and back it out and pull the rag joint off.
I'd just get a Flaming River column or equiv. More standardized, and it uses a GM truck turn signal switch....much more rugged than the stock switch for the Classic Mustangs, and in stock and most parts stores.
I'd just get a Flaming River column or equiv. More standardized, and it uses a GM truck turn signal switch....much more rugged than the stock switch for the Classic Mustangs, and in stock and most parts stores.
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