since rebuilding my car I have been having problems with engine mounts. I notice that there is a lot of movement in the engine when accelerating hard. also, my header on the drivers side is touching the shock tower while I have about 3/4 inch clearance on the passenger side.
if I loosen up the nut on the bottom and lever over the engine, it will move the P side. I can tighten it up and it stays. But, it only stays for a while. after driving a few times, it shifts back to the drivers side.
I am using stock mounts. Is there a better mount I can purchase to help secure it so I don't get a bad engine vibration from the exhaust contacting the tower?

 

onds like you have the one stud type motor support commonly found on 1965 and older Fords. You might look into installing the 1966-68 style mounts. They have an attaching bolt running front-to-back through the support. They are perhaps stronger, anyway. Otherwise, you might look into some kind of rigid torque strap on the driver's side of the block over to the frame.
Best,
Al

 

Alternatively, the Ron Morris mounts are really nice

I've destroyed a couple sets of '67 mounts (which are actually geometrically different than 66 and 68-70) in ~40k mi. They tend to separate with lots of torque=/ The next time I have to replace them, I'll probably go with the Ron Morris mounts.

 

I use the Ron Morris ones too. Factory mounts were just never intended for the kind of power modern engine parts can make. Lakewood makes a factory style mount called muscle mounts iirc, they're beefier than stock and last longer, but still eventually start to come apart and make the engine sit higher.

The Ron Morris ones are just hunks of steel plate bolted down, with a poly bushing and a thru-bolt. It's like a safety mount, where even if the bushing fails the mount won't come free, just rattle around. You get more vibration though because you just have a small poly bushing the bolt goes through, but the vibration absorption is what makes the weak spot in a mount.

 

+1 ron Morris...adjustable side to side too

 

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If the mnount keeps moving on the frame after you adjust it then either it is not tight enough or the hardware is too soft try grade 8 hardware and use an extra thick flat washer . . The Ron Morris mounts will magnify any drivetrain vibrations you might have . . Put a 1 foot long 2 x 4 side to side across the front of your oil pan put a floor jack under the left side and jack it up a little and see if the rubber is separated on the mount . . Do the same to the other side . . Also if the rubber looks squished much or oil soaked, I would replace them.
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The Ron Morris mounts will magnify any/all vibration you have....

I've used them with both a stock rubber and a poly transmission mount. Quite a bit of vibration can be mitigated by using a stock rubber trans. mount. But if you put a poly mount on there, you WILL know if you have a spot where the engine/driveline vibrates.

 

I was going to go with the Ron Morris mounts, but there is a shop here in town called The Mustang Shop and they make there own mounts. Their mounts are very similar to the Morris mounts. I installed them, which was very easy. the vibration decreased because my headers were resting against the shock towers before with the broken mounts.
I still get some vibration but the car overall is smoother now.

http://www.themustangshopaz.com/index.html

 

well if your mounts were broken i would have simply replaced them with orig style ones . . headers wouldn't hit and it would vibrate less and would have cost less.
.

 

Nah...I would break those about every 8 to 14 months then the engine torque off the mount base and smash the dizzy into my monte carlo bar...F that!