T10 question shifter loose
#11
#12
Barnett, we're talking about different bushings.
The bushings that are part of the shifter rebuild kit are not at all something you can get from a hardware store. They're small cylindrical things with a half-dome top, with a spring that sits under each one. They fit inside the shifter assembly. These are the bushings causing the slop in his shifter.
I believe the bushings you're referring to are the shifter linkage bushings. And while yes, some bolts and washers would do the trick, I'd really recommend a set of Hurst/Mr Gasket (they're the same parent company, and the same parts) metal shift bushings/pins. Along with some lithium grease, they really do take up most of the linkage slack, and the handy pins they come with won't come off.
The bushings that are part of the shifter rebuild kit are not at all something you can get from a hardware store. They're small cylindrical things with a half-dome top, with a spring that sits under each one. They fit inside the shifter assembly. These are the bushings causing the slop in his shifter.
I believe the bushings you're referring to are the shifter linkage bushings. And while yes, some bolts and washers would do the trick, I'd really recommend a set of Hurst/Mr Gasket (they're the same parent company, and the same parts) metal shift bushings/pins. Along with some lithium grease, they really do take up most of the linkage slack, and the handy pins they come with won't come off.
#13
ahhh. . . ok, there is a metal cup and spring on each side of the shifter . . they are trapped by the housing . . unbolt the shifter while holding it in place . . slowly lift shifter up and trap the cups when they are exposed . . remove shifter the rest of the way . . if the cups do not fall out after you release them they are simply gummed up . . spray contact cleaner in them then push, pull, pry, etc until the come out . . these rarely need replacing because they do not wear out . . they usually just need cleaning and re-greasing but your rubber bushings are probably wasted which is why i suggested washers on the bolts and not using the rubber bushings.
if you have the 65 type cups, they use rubber instead of springs and these will be bad.
if you have the 65 type cups, they use rubber instead of springs and these will be bad.
Last edited by barnett468; 03-25-2015 at 03:07 PM.
#14
Well I have ordered everything I think I need. The bits shall arrive tomorrow.. And then saturday morning I shall begin. Its just two bolts... shouldnt take me but 48 hrs of cussing to get it done!
Thanks for the advice.
cheers
Thanks for the advice.
cheers
#15
ok but you shouldn't need anything except the 4 washers i suggested . . the spring loaded cups never wear out . . if you use the factory rubber biushings on the bolts, your shifter will still be sloppy . . i have only repaired around 100 of these.
#16
Barnett, that's not always true. The bushing cups on my old factory shifter were toast. The tops were mashed slightly flat, and they were mushroomed out and jammed in the shifter housing. I've seen others the same way. 50 years of abuse can do funny things. In addition, as the cups get jammed into their housings, the springs are in a constant compressed state and can wear out. The kit is like $10, and the time to clean the gunk off of questionable cups and springs is worth more to me than that.
#19
Barnett, that's not always true. The bushing cups on my old factory shifter were toast. The tops were mashed slightly flat, and they were mushroomed out and jammed in the shifter housing. I've seen others the same way. 50 years of abuse can do funny things. In addition, as the cups get jammed into their housings, the springs are in a constant compressed state and can wear out. The kit is like $10, and the time to clean the gunk off of questionable cups and springs is worth more to me than that.
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