Need quality Throwout Bearing.
Thread Starter
6th Gear Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 5,212
From: Hills of California
Need quality Throwout Bearing.
I think this was a centerforce TB. It lasted maybe 1.5 years maybe only a year. The TB that was in there before was replaced simply because I had the trans out and figured it was like 6 or 7 years old and should be swapped since I was right there.
I haven't pulled it out yet but bore scope images seem to indicate that it totally **** the bed.
What brand is best? Ford racing?
I haven't pulled it out yet but bore scope images seem to indicate that it totally **** the bed.
What brand is best? Ford racing?
Thread Starter
6th Gear Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 5,212
From: Hills of California
as for a replacement im not sure what I should exactly be looking for.
How do I know if a bearing is NTK?
Also the bearing needs to be "self centering" as in the face can slide independent of the collar. I installed a TOB in the past that was not self centering and it made awful sounds in which case I had to replace it again directly.
Thanks
-Gun
How do I know if a bearing is NTK?
Also the bearing needs to be "self centering" as in the face can slide independent of the collar. I installed a TOB in the past that was not self centering and it made awful sounds in which case I had to replace it again directly.
Thanks
-Gun
6th Gear Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 5,896
From: Elk Grove, CA
Timken was the other manufacturer I couldn't remember.
If you can't get your local auto parts supplier to tell you what's in the box, bearings are usually etched with the manufacturer and part number.
Is it possible the hydraulics are over-actuating the clutch? I've heard of issues with that.
If you can't get your local auto parts supplier to tell you what's in the box, bearings are usually etched with the manufacturer and part number.
Is it possible the hydraulics are over-actuating the clutch? I've heard of issues with that.
Thread Starter
6th Gear Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 5,212
From: Hills of California
I doubt it. Im wondering if they shipped this bearing with insufficient grease packed in it.
Im running just enough preload to allow it to shift into first. What I normally do is jack the rear wheels off the ground and if I put in the clutch and I can stop them from rotating by placing my hand on the sidewall I consider it good to go. Usually its just a bit tighter than the amount of preload it takes to keep the TOB against the diaphragm.
Im running just enough preload to allow it to shift into first. What I normally do is jack the rear wheels off the ground and if I put in the clutch and I can stop them from rotating by placing my hand on the sidewall I consider it good to go. Usually its just a bit tighter than the amount of preload it takes to keep the TOB against the diaphragm.
3rd Gear Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 764
From: California
Wish you the best on the search for a good TOB gunjam. This is why I convinced myself to go with a hydraulic slave cylinder. I have been working on the bracket for a while now. When I am done you can bet I will post a thread to show everything. It seems like longevity is still an issue with hydraulic TOB.