What can I bolt on to my engine for more power? Mystery 289 - MustangForums.com



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Old 10-29-2017, 02:49 PM   #1
localfiend
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Default What can I bolt on to my engine for more power? Mystery 289

Pulled the engine and transmission yesterday so that I can swap out the C4 for the brand new T5z I just bought. Engine runs great, but smokes on startup making me thing the valve seals are shot. Seems like a good excuse to me to replace the heads and cam with something better than stock. Only issue is, this seems to be a 65 289 block from a galaxy with a 40 overbore. I need to figure out what the pistons are, and what heads will match up well and give me more street-able power.

Specs:
1967 Coupe
289ci
Fitech 400HP EFI - I got tired of carbs
Edelbrock Performer Intake
C4 Trans - Soon to have a T5z - 2.95/1.94/1.34/1.00/.63
8" Rear with 3.8 gears and limited slip
Stock sized tires and wheels. Will probably change depending on what will fit.
Tri Y Headers
2.25" Dual Exhaust with H crossover

Here's the car:



And here's the door tag:




Here's the block codes under the starter:




Here's one of the heads that was on it.



Here's one of the pistons. They're all in very good shape and the cross hatching is still visible.




So, anybody have any idea what pistons I've got and if there's anything good I can drop into it for more power? Of course, I don't think I want to push most of the rest of the components in my car too hard, and I want it to be fun on the street. 300hp or maybe a little more would be cool. Any other information I need to supply?
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Old 11-07-2017, 01:06 AM   #2
MonsterBilly
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Looks like a mid compressionpistin. Hard ti yell without knowing the detailsand the heads. However, jusy slap on a setbof 170 tfs of afr heads and a motorsports cam you will be good to go.
A loy of prople on here will recommend a custom ground cam. Which would be best but a motorsports cam will be a lot cheaper and work fine.
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Old 12-03-2017, 11:08 PM   #3
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Default Question about your T5z swap...?

Quote:
Originally Posted by localfiend View Post
Pulled the engine and transmission yesterday so that I can swap out the C4 for the brand new T5z I just bought. Engine runs great, but smokes on startup making me thing the valve seals are shot. Seems like a good excuse to me to replace the heads and cam with something better than stock. Only issue is, this seems to be a 65 289 block from a galaxy with a 40 overbore. I need to figure out what the pistons are, and what heads will match up well and give me more street-able power.

Specs:
1967 Coupe
289ci
Fitech 400HP EFI - I got tired of carbs
Edelbrock Performer Intake
C4 Trans - Soon to have a T5z - 2.95/1.94/1.34/1.00/.63
8" Rear with 3.8 gears and limited slip
Stock sized tires and wheels. Will probably change depending on what will fit.
Tri Y Headers
2.25" Dual Exhaust
So, anybody have any idea what pistons I've got and if there's anything good I can drop into it for more power? Of course, I don't think I want to push most of the rest of the components in my car too hard, and I want it to be fun on the street. 300hp or maybe a little more would be cool. Any other information I need to supply?
Hey LF,

Question: what clutch system are you using? Cable or hydraulic? Are you up and running using it? How is the travel, disengagement and shifting? Anything you'd do differently?

Not to hijack, but it sounds like we've been taking similar paths. I'm removing a tired old 302 w/C4 auto out of my '68 coupe and replacing it with a completely rebuilt late '80's roller lifter 302 and a Tremec T5z manual. Short block is rebuilt to stock specs but with all ARP, with stock forged pistons that looked a little flatter topped than yours. Stock 8.1:1 compression. I went with Trick Flow 160 heads, roller 1.7:1 lifters and a B303 cam. It'll inhale thru a 600 Edelbrock 4 bbl carb and DP manifold, exhale thru Flowtech ceramic headers and planning on 2 1/2" X-pipe exhaust. I'm trying to eeek out a few extra ponies by using a Canton windage tray on a Canton main girdle and a Canton RR oil pan with baffles. Also looking into dual electric fans, maybe, just maybe, an electric water pump (Maizere?).Wish I could tell you how awesome it runs, but I'm stalled making radiator decisions (it's hot af in the summer where I live), front accessory drive (6 or 8 rib serp?), and clutch decisions. Clutch actuation, that is. Seems like a path of pitfalls, and lots have struggled with not enough clutch lever travel at the bellhousing. Lmk how yours works, dying to get this pony on the trail!!

Albert
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Old 12-03-2017, 11:23 PM   #4
Gun Jam
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Hit up the guys at Modern Driveline. Their system is the best I have used so far.

I have used Cable, and pieced together hydraulic system that used CNC MC and SC. I did not like the cable. The hydraulic system was good but would break internal springs in the MC.

The Modern Driveline system uses a very clever lever arm system to make sure travel is very straight, Couple that with wilwood MC and an Tiltion 6000 internal release bearing and full kevlar clutch and you have a very smooth system that fully disengages the clutch and provides good pedal feel. Call em 208-453-9800
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Old 12-03-2017, 11:55 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gun Jam View Post
Hit up the guys at Modern Driveline. Their system is the best I have used so far.

I have used Cable, and pieced together hydraulic system that used CNC MC and SC. I did not like the cable. The hydraulic system was good but would break internal springs in the MC.

The Modern Driveline system uses a very clever lever arm system to make sure travel is very straight, Couple that with wilwood MC and an Tiltion 6000 internal release bearing and full kevlar clutch and you have a very smooth system that fully disengages the clutch and provides good pedal feel. Call em 208-453-9800
Hey GJ,

Thnx for the feedback. I've been in touch with MDL, good guys there, and the guy I got my Ford T5 bellhousing and clutch pedal assembly from threw in a used MDL clutch cable conversion, but it needs a new cable ($130). I've heard some struggled with the cable setup, some liked it. Are you using a 3/4" Wilwood m/c? Two reasons I looked over the Tilton internal t/o bearing: requires tranny removal to readjust free play, no assurances it would work correctly, and huge expense. How many miles do you have on your Tilton? Also, did you keep the stock clutch return spring up at the pedal hanger, or did you fab one down at the clutch arm?

I strongly considered the RAM internal HD hydraulic t/o bearing because it had a nice o-ring design, fair price, but then it needed me to machine down the bearing retainer to fit.
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Old 12-04-2017, 12:26 AM   #6
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My car was an automatic before and never had a clutch pedal return spring when I added the clutch pedal.

Im not exactly sure what size the MC is... Its actually built to MDL specs and Wilwood can not change those specs unless MDL signs off on any proposed changes. But yes it does indeed look close to 3/4...

The Tilton does not need to ever be adjusted once installed. You set it up to have like 1/4" of spare travel to accommodate for clutch wear and never touch it again. But yes it is expensive. It can be rebuilt for about 50 to 60 bucks and will likley have longer lifespan than the 2 years I get out of a typical TOB Its nearly impossible to find a quality external Release TOB. So fingers crossed on that!

The cable setup always found a way to melt on the headers and puts significant strain on the firewall causing flex.

Ive been running the MDL system for about 9 months now daily driven.

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Old 12-05-2017, 04:03 AM   #7
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I use a hydraulic that I pieced together for a fair price. Its been in several yours and I find it awesome. Perfect feel and pedal resistance.
I have an external slave and I did remove the spring all together.

but, back to the OP heads,cam, carb and intake will get you the best results.
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Old 12-05-2017, 03:39 PM   #8
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Default I think he only needs cam and heads

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Originally Posted by MonsterBilly View Post
I use a hydraulic that I pieced together for a fair price. Its been in several yours and I find it awesome. Perfect feel and pedal resistance.
I have an external slave and I did remove the spring all together.

but, back to the OP heads,cam, carb and intake will get you the best results.
I think the OP only needs a cam and heads? He's got aftermarket EFT and tri-y headers. How about a nice set of TFS, AFR or Edelbrock heads? A B303 or E303 cam? How about roller lifters and roller rockers? That and an MSD ignition, I'd like to try a MSD AL-x or new digital box...
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Old 12-05-2017, 03:43 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by localfiend View Post
Pulled the engine and transmission yesterday so that I can swap out the C4 for the brand new T5z I just bought. Engine runs great, but smokes on startup making me thing the valve seals are shot. Seems like a good excuse to me to replace the heads and cam with something better than stock. Only issue is, this seems to be a 65 289 block from a galaxy with a 40 overbore. I need to figure out what the pistons are, and what heads will match up well and give me more street-able power.

Specs:
1967 Coupe
289ci
Fitech 400HP EFI - I got tired of carbs
Edelbrock Performer Intake
C4 Trans - Soon to have a T5z - 2.95/1.94/1.34/1.00/.63
8" Rear with 3.8 gears and limited slip
Stock sized tires and wheels. Will probably change depending on what will fit.
Tri Y Headers
2.25" Dual Exhaust with H crossover

So, anybody have any idea what pistons I've got and if there's anything good I can drop into it for more power? Of course, I don't think I want to push most of the rest of the components in my car too hard, and I want it to be fun on the street. 300hp or maybe a little more would be cool. Any other information I need to supply?
Sounds like you've got a fun combination on the way, that gearing, the trans gearing should be perfect. Shouldn't be too hard to get 300+ hp with what you've got, performance heads I mentioned earlier and cam...

Tell me, how do you like that 400 FiTech EFI? How's the performance and how did the setup go? I'd like to head that route someday...
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