Worth1

I must have missed where you said you put in a high output heater, oh wait, you didn't. In stock form, the mustangs with modular engines come from the factory with restrictors, however the original reason for this was we were having problems with the heater cores humming. with us ,It first showed up in police cruisers with 4.6's so ford came out with little white plastic restrictors . Now I can't deny you may be buying crap quality cores, because a lot of auto parts are turning to **** lately, so I don't see an issue with using a restrictor.

As far as the flow is concerned, the water pump circulates water it pulls from the lower radiator hose and sends it threw the block and up threw the intake manifold, you tap the heater hose off the intake manifold. No way to convince you, so take the heater hose off the water pump, cap off the pump, and start the engine. Or add a heater hose to the water pump and hold both of them just above the radiator height and start it. Water will come out the hose to the manifold. PS. do it outside with fresh water in the system, less of a mess.

Gun Jam

Actually you could easily convince me...you're not the one asking for help.

Plus it makes a lot of sense to have hot water thats headed back to the rad to be used as heater water

If the intake is In let then the fitting on the pump is actually on the suction side?

Can you link me to a heater core that is NOT crap?

Thanks
-Gun

groho

Didn't shelby and other high rev'ing motors use a restrictor on the inlet side of the heater core to prevent over pressurizing the core and splitting the seams? Following that principle try using an early dodge heater control valve on the inlet hose and place a hose restrictor inside the 5/8's heater hose inlet at the heater core to reduce the water flow into the core. During the summer you can completely shut the core off, and the restrictor will prevent over pressurizing the core. The restrictor only needs to be a 2 inchs of 1/2" hose with a 1/4" inner dia.

Worth1

What is your car?

08'MustangDude

1966 Mustang: Coolant flows from the intake through the heater core and back into the pump.

Gun Jam

Yes its a 66 mustang with a normal rotation water pump.

Okay so thats good to know that the valve should go on the intake hose.
If I were to fully close the valve for summer there would be no pressure on the core in this case?
Would it put undue pressure on any other components like the little bypass hose?

Worth1

No, you can plug the heater hoses completely with no issues. As far as a good Heater, SPI used to make a nice aluminum replacement, and I looked at their new ones and they look the same.It's an SPI 94575 and they are about 15 bux. And they are Canadian company, not Chinese.

Gun Jam

yeah im pretty sure thats the one I blew up in 3 months.

Ive been using the "Norther" core which is listed on the norther radiator website its sells for between 80 and 100 dollars and its lived the longest at about 2 years.

Ill install that valve on the intake side and choke it down until I get minimal acceptable heat from the system then shut it off in the summer.

Thanks

Gun Jam

I Installed the ball valve on the intake hose just in front of the firewall. I found that the valve has to be just cracked open to allow the heater to function pretty well. I would say the incoming water flow has been reduced 90 to 95%

I would like to think this is going to do the same thing to peak pressures.
So far so good.

Eddievalleytrailer

The valve will reduce the flow rate, but will do nothing to reduce the pressure. The ONLY thing that controls pressure in the system is the simplest thing to replace...the radiator cap. They can cause all kinds of problems, yet for some reason, people are reluctant to replace them. They are cheap and easy to replace.