First classic car purchase
07-16-2018, 02:02 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: NY
Posts: 6
First classic car purchase
Hello,
Just joined the forum in order to help limit the amount of mistakes i might make with my first purchase!
im looking into getting a 68 mustang fastback that was restored 2 owners prior with limited paperwork on the restoration. car looks mint and the current owner is being more than nice enough to answer any questions and help me with the process. the car was originally a 6cyl but was upgraded to a 351W by the last owner. supposedly everything was changed in the car including brand new wiring, transmission etc.
i will be adding ac and power steering since the car will be used in Florida.
im having the car inspected by a local garage that specializes in fords but hes more of a mechanical guy. any recommendations as to how i can have the body/frame properly examined for rust/bondo? owner claims no prior accidents but carfax doesnt register prior to 1981.
this is my first car purchase and i want to protect myself as much as possible. the car is located in Bloomington, IL.
appreciate every bit of help!
Just joined the forum in order to help limit the amount of mistakes i might make with my first purchase!
im looking into getting a 68 mustang fastback that was restored 2 owners prior with limited paperwork on the restoration. car looks mint and the current owner is being more than nice enough to answer any questions and help me with the process. the car was originally a 6cyl but was upgraded to a 351W by the last owner. supposedly everything was changed in the car including brand new wiring, transmission etc.
i will be adding ac and power steering since the car will be used in Florida.
im having the car inspected by a local garage that specializes in fords but hes more of a mechanical guy. any recommendations as to how i can have the body/frame properly examined for rust/bondo? owner claims no prior accidents but carfax doesnt register prior to 1981.
this is my first car purchase and i want to protect myself as much as possible. the car is located in Bloomington, IL.
appreciate every bit of help!
07-18-2018, 07:41 AM
#2
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Michigan
Posts: 516
If you haven't yet- go see the car in person. Every car photographs well. Seeing it in person before you lay out the cash is rule #1.
When you do go look at it- have them start it up from cold. None of this 'we have it warmed up for you' crap. If its got worn parts in the engine then they'll seal up after its warm. Starting it from cold you're more likely to see the puff of smoke or a rattling lifter.
Check the door gaps. For body that's one of the biggest things I look for. They don't need to be perfect but they should be even. Open & close the doors does it sound solid? do the doors clunk or hit the catches when they latch? Feel the back side of the fender lips that will let you feel if there is body work on the back side. tap the normal rust problem areas with your knuckle. Do it on a known good spot of metal too. If there's bondo the sound will be dull. Check where they redid the floors see if its quality work(even seams, nice weld pattern, straight cuts). Check the cowl have someone shine a bright light through the cowl vents behind the hood, watch under the dash for any light passing through.
Drive it- does it pull to one side? Is the steering tight? does it feel 'washy'. Are the brakes upgraded? do they feel right?
Do all the gauges work? Look under the dash is the wiring neat and clean or a rabbits nest? You should be able to tell right away of the wiring looks new vs the old with patches. Even if its new and a rabbit nest, then be aware of it, if they didn't do a neat job here how was the rest of the car done? Neat wiring does not cost $- its a simple measure of taking care and spending the extra 20 minutes to keep things neat. It tells you a lot about the person doing the work. The most common insurance claim on classic cars is loss by fire and that is directly related to crap *** wiring.
That's the big stuff I'm sure others may have more info- but do NOT buy it without going to see it first. Yes an airplane ticket is expensive, but not as expensive as getting caught with a junker with a pretty paint job and ruining your mustang hobby from the get go.
Good luck and if it all works out, post some pictures. we like pictures.
When you do go look at it- have them start it up from cold. None of this 'we have it warmed up for you' crap. If its got worn parts in the engine then they'll seal up after its warm. Starting it from cold you're more likely to see the puff of smoke or a rattling lifter.
Check the door gaps. For body that's one of the biggest things I look for. They don't need to be perfect but they should be even. Open & close the doors does it sound solid? do the doors clunk or hit the catches when they latch? Feel the back side of the fender lips that will let you feel if there is body work on the back side. tap the normal rust problem areas with your knuckle. Do it on a known good spot of metal too. If there's bondo the sound will be dull. Check where they redid the floors see if its quality work(even seams, nice weld pattern, straight cuts). Check the cowl have someone shine a bright light through the cowl vents behind the hood, watch under the dash for any light passing through.
Drive it- does it pull to one side? Is the steering tight? does it feel 'washy'. Are the brakes upgraded? do they feel right?
Do all the gauges work? Look under the dash is the wiring neat and clean or a rabbits nest? You should be able to tell right away of the wiring looks new vs the old with patches. Even if its new and a rabbit nest, then be aware of it, if they didn't do a neat job here how was the rest of the car done? Neat wiring does not cost $- its a simple measure of taking care and spending the extra 20 minutes to keep things neat. It tells you a lot about the person doing the work. The most common insurance claim on classic cars is loss by fire and that is directly related to crap *** wiring.
That's the big stuff I'm sure others may have more info- but do NOT buy it without going to see it first. Yes an airplane ticket is expensive, but not as expensive as getting caught with a junker with a pretty paint job and ruining your mustang hobby from the get go.
Good luck and if it all works out, post some pictures. we like pictures.
07-18-2018, 01:37 PM
#4
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: PA
Posts: 424
A magnet works well for bondo as well as sight lines and feel. Especially lower door and rockers. Look up from under the dash for holes in the air vent system which are not visible from above. A hose also works well for this. Flood the area in front of the windshield and see if the carpet gets wet. That could be expensive. Pull the carpets to check the floor boards. Get under to check the torque boxes. Rear wheel tubs and back area floor are other spots. Not all restorations are equal.
07-18-2018, 01:49 PM
#5
Gentleman's Relish
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: AZ
Posts: 13,090
In addition to checking for Bondo, guages, etc, you can also see how many layers of paint there are by inspecting the engine bay and trunk area for old vs new paint. If the trunk lid or under the rear deck has three different shades of the same color it's obviously been repainted but why?
Part of the restoration or accidents that were repaired? Taking that into account in addition to panel alignment and bondo (if it exists) will give you an idea of the condition of the frame and body.
One last thing, I've seen a classic mustang with a grafted frame (66 front and 67 rear). Looking at the body you would never tell but, look under the body on a lift and look for welding marks or seams that look out of place.
A friend of mine in Germany owns a 66. He recently rebuilt the drive train and engine as his winter project. In that process he found that he had a 66 front half with a 67 rear half that were grafted together.
He only spotted it when he removed the driveshaft and saw an unusual seam in the driveshaft tunnel. When he pulled back the carpet in the passenger compartment you could see it clear as day. Under the car an expert job of grinding the welds and then coating the metal was done so you couldn't see it. Under the carpet the metal was only sprayed to protect it.
Part of the restoration or accidents that were repaired? Taking that into account in addition to panel alignment and bondo (if it exists) will give you an idea of the condition of the frame and body.
One last thing, I've seen a classic mustang with a grafted frame (66 front and 67 rear). Looking at the body you would never tell but, look under the body on a lift and look for welding marks or seams that look out of place.
A friend of mine in Germany owns a 66. He recently rebuilt the drive train and engine as his winter project. In that process he found that he had a 66 front half with a 67 rear half that were grafted together.
He only spotted it when he removed the driveshaft and saw an unusual seam in the driveshaft tunnel. When he pulled back the carpet in the passenger compartment you could see it clear as day. Under the car an expert job of grinding the welds and then coating the metal was done so you couldn't see it. Under the carpet the metal was only sprayed to protect it.
07-23-2018, 06:03 PM
#7
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: arizona
Posts: 1,398
cars with good original sheet metal are worth the most money. have someone knowledgeable look at every panel on the car to see if any have been changed. if all the floors were changed, it was a fairly rusty car so a more scrupulous inspection would then be needed.
