Our DEADLY clocks
This is something that has plagued me for the last 4 years, and has cost me many hours of grief as well as a bundle of $$$$. Everyone who has a Rally Pac or a Borg classic clock needs to read this: https://www.rccinnovations.com/Instructions/Clock.pdf
If you read the website I posted it explains the technical problems involved in a simple reduction of voltage to the clock. Every car battery can, or does at some point, degrade and lose output. One of the symptoms (as I have experienced and now know about by the long term problems caused) is your OEM clock stops working properly. At first it is intermittent, being "rejuvenated" when the battery is charged again. But, eventually your battery will be drained either naturally....or by the clock winding mechanism and its current-carrying electronic components (the contact points and the coil). Once the points are fused and the coil burns up, no matter how many batteries you install, they will drain and be ruined. Tracing the circuit to the Rally Pac and the clock is not easy. It may have also ruined the TACH and the Ammeter, too. Not sure what the problem is with those...or if there really is a problem with the clock out of the system. The TACH was stopping at 2500 RPMS, then seemed to stop working. The Ammeter seems to have quit, but I have not retested it without the clock dragging the system.
The point is: Your OEM clock can not only stop winding, it can cause further damage to your circuits and battery if the issue is not fixed as soon as you discover it is NOT WINDING.
The point is: Your OEM clock can not only stop winding, it can cause further damage to your circuits and battery if the issue is not fixed as soon as you discover it is NOT WINDING.
Last edited by DALLAS916; Nov 27, 2018 at 12:42 PM.
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texasexx
2005-2014 Mustangs
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Aug 31, 2007 09:39 AM




