Hi
I have a 65 that has a Frankenstein wiring mess. The plug into the engine bay fried when someone gave me a boost. I tried to simply bypass the plug with the needed wires. Somehow I ended up with a wire disconnected from the resistor. I can't figure out where it went. I tried following wiring diagrams but they aren't helping - nothing is close to OEM. .

Without the one blue wire connected, it will "start" when the key is all the way over but will immediately stop when I let go.

I traced all the wires from the ignition, resistor etc. and this is what I have. If you could let me know where that blue wire should go - or what else is messed up (could easily have happened), it would be much appreciated.


I believe that #1 is Run and #2 is Start

#1 splits into two wires. One runs to the I on the solenoid. The other goes to the S on the solenoid.

#2 the blue wire runs to the S on the solenoid (this isn't the blue wire that I don't know where it goes). The red runs to the + on the coil.

#3 runs up to the a tie in with 3 others behind the instrument cluster.



The black from the Negative runs to the distributor. Green from the Negative runs to the tach. The mess on the Positive is temporary solder.




The grey wire goes to the + on the coil. The blue one is the mystery that goes no where. If I connect it to the S side of the solenoid the car will jump start. If I tie it into the Start (#1) on the ignition it won't turn off. That makes me think there is more problems than just the blue wire.

Thanks for the help.

 

Great googly moogly!

 

Does the car have an electronic ignition module like Pertronix? Would you be considering installing one?, This probably will be easier if you did.

 

Is the ignition switch in the picture in the same up down/ left right orientation as it would if it were installed in the dash?

 

When the ignition is installed #1 is a bit left of centre #2 is to the right.

I’ll install something else if needed but I’d rather use what I have.

Thanks.

 

The Mustang uses an in-line resistor wire to provide reduced voltage to the coil while the ignition switch is in the run position. It will be difficult to determine if that ballast resistor block is compatible. An electronic ignition module like Pertronix, when installed, deletes the need for a ballast resistor.

As far as your ignition switch:
1. Should be main power coming into the switch from the left battery post of the starter relay #37 in the diagram.
2. Should be the lead to the neutral safety switch, assuming you have an automatic., and then to the "S" side of the starter relay to provide the signal for the starter to engage.
3. Should be the ballast resistor to the coil. It would tie into the #262 coming from the "I" side of the starter relay.
The center post is for accessory power and power back to the fuse block and to the alternator relay.

There should only be one wire on the "S" side of the starter relay, and one wire on the "I" side of the starter relay. AND no wire should split and go to both "S" and "I".
The fact that it starts while the ignition switch is in the start position indicates that the coil is getting power from the starter relay during cranking. The fact that it quits when you relax the key to the run position indicates that the coil is not powered through the ballast resistor, your blue wire.

Ignition wire diagram below (it's for a '66, but they are the same).

 

Thanks for the diagram. I should have mentioned that it’s a standard. I don’t think I’ve changed any of the wiring except for missing where the blue goes. It seemed to start and run fine before but by the sounds of it I need to do it over?

 

Well, if it ran like that before... The blue wire needs to make it back to the #3 on your first photo. If you have a voltmeter, you should check that it (the #3) has 12V coming from it when the ignition switch is in "run".
Just FYI, the "I" side of the starter relay only has power while cranking, so if it is connected to something that already has 12v, they just share the twelve volts, no real harm. The way you describe the wiring on the switch, with two wires coming of the "S" side, I'm do see how the switch is getting 12v power. But it obviously is. If you get it to start and run, let us know what you ended up doing.

 

Is the blue wire long enough to reach the starter relay? Was it run in that direction? If so, it might have been connected to the "I" side of the relay. The split wire coming off your #1 may be providing 12v to that point for both cranking and run, kinda like it does in stock configuration. Again, if you have a voltmeter, it would be good to know what voltage the "I" post has when the key is "off" and in "run".

 

Thanks. I tried the blue wire to #3 on the ignition and to the I on the relay. Both jump start it.

At least I now know 4 different ways to start it without a key.

It was a while ago that I started the “fix” and then left it. I think it was the old “pink” wire that was fried that I changed to blue but I can’t remember for certain. But the original pink ties in under the dash - doesn’t it? Whatever it was it was fried. Should have paid closer attention but I was ripping out wires from under the dash as it looked like it was going to start on fire - no time for pics.

I borrowed a volt meter. I is 12v both in both off and run.

I wondered if my ballast resistor is fried. It passes 12 volts through it when just touching t is hooked to the battery - so I guess not.