Restored a 1970 mustang with a 351 clevland when i was in high school and now junior year of college it time to do a rebuild and i want to up the performance.

the car was resotred to basicly to stock with a few changes to make it a better daily driven car.

I am very mechanicaly inclinded and will be doing all the work myself.

current mods include: msd ignition(distribitor, wires, ignition (6T), and blaster coil)
holley street avenger carb 670cfm


This is what i need suggestions on what would be best for a street/track car.
I def want it still to retain the relability that it has now but have some serious extra ponies.

The list :
engine rebuild from summit (should i just piece together one to chose pistons and such?)
intake manifold
cam
lifters
rockers
fuel pump

 

Jash70Stang

Let me be one of the first to welcome you to the Classic Mustang Forum. Sounds like you are in about the place I am with my 66 Fastback. My engine has a fresh rebuild on it and I went up with the Performaer Package from Edelbrock that includeds the 600 CFM Carb, Intake and cam kit. I included the Procomp distribitor, ing and coil. I also put on te Edelbrock fuel and water pump. This engine is a 302 but I have the original 289 setting to the side for a rebuild latter. I did not make any changes to the pistons etc because it was rebuilt about 7K miles ago. I am interested in knowing what you deside on, so keep us posted.

Good Luck and again welcome to the forum.
Gary

 

Welcome to the forum, I'm pretty much new too. If I was you, I would biuld my lower end strong. I would not even think about a summit kit. I would run a set of Eagle h-beam rods, Ross floating nitris pistons, Clevite bearings, and some Childs and Albert gapless rings. This will make a very strong lower end. This stuff is costly but well worth the extra cash. You should have an indestructable lower end that will rev high and handle a big shot of nitris. If you keep your engine streetable and run a 250 shot on the bottle you will smoke just about anything (with the push of a button) that pulls up beside you if you can get traction! You will need to upgrade you fuel system. Run to pumps, one for the car, and one for the bottle. Once you start playing with the bottle you will never go back, it's a blast! When you hit that button, you will be embedded in your seat! If you don't run nitris pistons, don't use a 250 shot. Nitris pistons have the ring lands set much lower than a forged or stock piston. You will colapse you ring lands (even on forged) and break your rings sooner or later.[sm=burnout.gif][sm=nxsmile.gif]

 

not really trying to go the n20 route. Maybe down the road ill go forced induction (supercharger). But for now i just want to do the supporting mods for a higher lift bigger cam.


Thanks for the welcome...ill put up some pics her sooner or later...

any more input on what to do for the rebuild?

 

should add the new edelbrock alum heads to that list!

 

If you go to forced ind. I hope you built your lower end like I recomended! Blowers have the same effect. That is why my 03 Cobra came with steel crank, rods, and blower/n2o pistons. It sure is nice knowing I can build the **** out of my upper end and not have to worry about the bottom. My lower end will handle ****-loads of HPs.[sm=goodidea.gif]

 

Clevelands had good rods stock. They will turn 6500rpm no problem. Right now I am doing a 351C 2V, I got the Summit kit that was .030 over forged pistons and .010 under bearings. Use that and add good rod bolts, balance it all and you have a good bottom end. It will handle up to a 250 shot of N2O as well.

2v heads are good for the street, 4V will work too if you have them, you dont need to do any port work on these heads. There are plates available for 4V heads to make them flow better by filling up the dead space in the ports. They really work. Add a decent 4 barrel intake )I like Edlebrock and Weiand)and a 750 vacuum secondary carb and you are all set.

The cam I am running is a Comp cams Extreme Energy cam. The XE274 with the kit, springs locks retainers, timing set, cam and lifters. This cam will make good midrange power, idle with a bit of chop, and should be more than enough for 2V heads. Stock rockers will work with this cam, but I am going to upgrade to a fully adjustable valvetrain. I havent yet decided on the system I am going to use. Post up if you have 4V heads, because I would go with a bit more cam then.

That is a low buck approach to building about a 350-400hp 2v. I like MSD but the Ford electronic ignition works good as well. Points arent all that great, infact they pretty much suck.lol. Since you have good stuff already use it. The Carb you have will work, but later you can try out the 750 if you like. Both will work ok.

I prefer electric fuel pumps. I have had good luck on the street with the Carter street pump. Its not really noisy and I have run mid 11's in the 1/4 with one. They dont usually need a regulator, unless the pressure builds up and overflows the needle seats. I had that issue with a Demon 850 carb an my GTO with a 455.

I highly recomend a set of headers, Clevelands love good headers. I got ceramic coated headers for my 71 fastback. I just wanted them to last a long time and look good. They flow the same and make the same power as non coated headers.

A 2200-2800 stall(If automatic) and 3.55 gears will be a happy medium between track times and driveability. A seriously built AOD or 5 speed overdrive would be nice and allow deeper gears like 4.11's. If you dont take it out on the highway/interstate or need to make trips longer than 20 miles or so, go with 4.11's. They will make it alot of fun in town and a monster out of the hole on the track. If you drive long distances, I would stick with the 3.55's, they will still launch really well but not buzz the engine so much on trips. A stock T5 isnt going to live long behind a healthy Cleveland. A TKO or richmond would be a much wiser choice.

 

btw...im setting my budget around 1200 bucks

whats a good recipe for that figure?

 

Depending on how much machine work is in your area, you will be limited to an engine kit, cam and lifters for only $1200. The Comp Cams 280 Magnum will work good with a stock converter and springs. I have one of those in a 4V Cleveland, it makes decent power even with the stock intake and carb. If its a 2V, Summit sells cheap headers, I think they are around $100, get some 3" diameter 4' long sections of pipe, and some $20 Summit mufflers that are 3" in and out, and you have a cheap exhaust system. It wont have tail pipes, but it will work.

If the engine isnt smoking or burning oil, you could check to see if there is a ring ridge in the top part of the cylinders. you need to pull a head to do that, but if the cylinders look good no vertical scratches or gouges, just get a, cam, lifters, springs, headers and a valve job. You never mentioned if its 2V or 4V, if you already have a 4 barrel intake, just use it. Even a stock one will make decent power with your carb.