I would like as many opinions on this as possible. I am looking at either going with a 65/66 fastback OR and 89 LX Hatch mustang. Which body style is more suited for performance, keeping in mind that the Fox body has to pass emisions, and I can add modern suspension and sub frame connectors to the 65/66. It seems that the Fox body even with GOOD restoration and modifications to the 65/66, has and edge over 65/66 body style, just because people tend to use the fox body more. I really don't know my logic would seem that they are both the same. Is this correct thinking?

 

dude, that is a rediculis question... 65/66 fastback for shure... like you said, a 89 has to pass emmisions... a 66 dont. pluss the old stangs are pure sex...

as fas as suspention goes, you can modernize and update it. the brakes are another bad point in the old stangs, but you can switch to disk from a old granada or buy the kits.

 

Thanks Greg68, is there any one else??

 

Deffinatly the 65/66. The suspension and everything can be modernized but think of the sex appeal. Chicks really dig the old ones.

So now you have 2 options, go with the fox and stay home watching Speedvision for the rest of your life or go with the classic and have your little black book full of numbers.

 

thats no **** man!!! i got my project at a junk yard, i had it droped off at my house, while it was at the end on my driveway, my neighbor seen it.. man, she is a hottie... she is maby 19 or 20, im only 16. anyways, her dog came over to me the next day and she was like "whos mustang was that out there the other day?" i said it was mine, and she talked to me about how she love old mustangs, and how she used to have a 69. anyways, ever sence then, she has been talkin to me, wearin these skimpy *** alphets, that you can LITERLEY see her thong through. I even got a tity shot when she bent down to rub her leg, and show me here meskito bite.

man, i need to get with that... but, she is a little ****, she has like 3 or 4 guys up there every other night, probley pullin the train...

wow, this got way off topic....

 

the brakes arent that good on the foxes has anyone used the mustang steve cobra brake conversion for the 65 cars i was gonna get the baer shelby stuff but these look pretty good and a great break on the price!!

 

Thanks guys for the 411, is there any one else?

 

65 fastback, curb weight is only 2700 lbs, just imagine fiberglass hood and alluminum heads and thats a ton of weight right there. and virtually the same engine as the 5.0

 

Why not just do like me, Have a 67 and a 88. I used to race the 67 and now putting it back on the street, I have a 88 race car.

 

Well, here is a disk brake swap I did that worked out great!! I did not use the granada swap and this setup is great for street use. If you're thinking about heavy racing, this is not for you.

Here is what I used along with a bracket from this guy -->Marc Janis - (425) 672-0377
By the way, the entire upgrade to disk brakes cost me under $600 with this setup and that's with the power brake booster!!


Here are the parts needed..
Parts List

Part Application NAPA Wagner

Rotor (2) 1990 Chevy Celebrity HD 85768 or 48-85768 BD60678
Caliper, LH 1982-97 S10 4WD front 242-2046 CR98888
Caliper, RH 1982-97 S10 4WD front 242-2047 CR98889
Hoses (2) 1977-82 Cadillac Eldorado 36959 and 36960 F98914 and 98914
Brake pads 1982-97 S10 4WD front AE7070AM MX154
Caliper bolt (4) 1982-97 S10 4WD front 82205 F76074S

Here is the process of the swap;

This setup is for 1964-69 V8 Mustang, Falcon and Maverick.

Front Disc brake conversion instructions

1. Crack front wheel nuts loose, chock up rear wheels.
2. Jack up front end of car, support crossmember with jackstands.
3. Remove front wheels, drum/hub assembly.
4. Take drum/hub assembly to a competent machinist and remove drum by using a swedge cutter on the studs. Machine outer edge of hub flange to fit inside rotor with about 0.020” fit. Clean off wheel surface and register with wire wheel. If you have the two piece drum, you will need to get a set from Summit or another aftermarket supplier.
5. Disconnect brake flexible line at frame by unscrewing hardline nut, then removing clip. Undo drum backing plate nuts and remove drum backing plate and all drum hardware in one assembly. Clean off spindle assembly
6. Place adapter plate over spindle with caliper bolt retaining nuts facing inward, and caliper opening to the rear. Tighten nuts.
7. Clean and repack wheel bearings. Install new seal. Install centering ring onto hub. Assemble hub onto spindle, tighten outer nut to spec, then secure with keeper, new cotter pin and dustcap.
8. Drill out rotor stud holes to 5/8” diameter if nessessary. Chamfer hole edges to prevent cracks (I found new studs that allowed me to just use them as is with no drilling..
9. Place rotor onto hub, and run two or three lugnuts down finger tight to retain rotor. Wipe down rotor with alcohol, laquer thinner or other cleaner to remove grease and oils.
10. Wash hands! Rotor must be squeaky clean
11. We modified the brake hose port so that the hose would face toward the rear center of the car. This can be done with a hacksaw and file, though a cutoff wheel works nice too, Lay out the hose and mark the caliper, then carefully cut the sides down. Using a pair of vise-grips, snap off inner piece and clean up with a file. Install new rubber slider rings and steels bushings into caliper. Assemble pads into caliper, and slide assembly into caliper bracket, lube with silicone grease then screw in new slide pins, tighten to 35 foot-pounds. Check fitment and rotate rotor to check clearance.
12. I used 1979-85 Cadillac Eldorado front hydraulic hoses, which are 17”. Use a piece of to find the optimal length for your application. Install hose with new copper crush washers.
13. Master cylinder and proportioning valve specs are quite varied. I would recommend 19767-70 Mustang or simular disc master cylinder for best performance match available in both power and manual flavors. Some have used the original single master cylinder with success, though this is not recommended. Try with original junction block first. If rears lock up excessively, install an adjustable proportioning valve in the line going to the rear.
14. Bench bleed disc master cylinder, mount on car, then gravity bleed entire system first, then pump bleed and test.

Here is a pic of the disk brakes with me 17 inch bullets....