Ok, here ya go.... Prior to the new springs and after.. I also install a set of 225x45 17" ZR's on a set of Cobra Bullet rims!! As you can see it dropped close to two inches. You can also see the disk brake conversion I did too..

Prior


After

 

slickman for the granada swap do u need a power break booster, because on some of the kits u buy to change to disc breaks it says u can;t even use them

 

wow that looks great. i thought it was gonna look too low and all cholo style...it looks real good.

 

I did not use the granada swap. Here is what I used along with a bracket from this guy -->Marc Janis - (425) 672-0377 By the way, the entire upgrade to disk brakes cost me under $600 with this setup and that's with the power brake booster!!

Here is the bracket -->Mustang Disk brakes

Here are the parts needed..
Parts List

Part Application NAPA Wagner

Rotor (2) 1990 Chevy Celebrity HD 85768 or 48-85768 BD60678
Caliper, LH 1982-97 S10 4WD front 242-2046 CR98888
Caliper, RH 1982-97 S10 4WD front 242-2047 CR98889
Hoses (2)* 1977-82 Cadillac Eldorado 36959 and 36960 F98914 and 98914
Brake pads 1982-97 S10 4WD front AE7070AM MX154
Caliper bolt (4) 1982-97 S10 4WD front 82205 F76074S

Here is the process of the swap;

1964-69 V8 Mustang, Falcon, Maverick
Front Disc brake conversion instructions

1. Crack front wheel nuts loose, chock up rear wheels.
2. Jack up front end of car, support crossmember with jackstands.
3. Remove front wheels, drum/hub assembly.
4. Take drum/hub assembly to a competent machinist and remove drum by using a swedge cutter on the studs. Machine outer edge of hub flange to fit inside rotor with about 0.020� fit. Clean off wheel surface and register with wire wheel. If you have the two piece drum, you will need to get a set from Summit or another aftermarket supplier.
5. Disconnect brake flexible line at frame by unscrewing hardline nut, then removing clip. Undo drum backing plate nuts and remove drum backing plate and all drum hardware in one assembly. Clean off spindle assembly
6. Place adapter plate over spindle with caliper bolt retaining nuts facing inward, and caliper opening to the rear. Tighten nuts.
7. Clean and repack wheel bearings. Install new seal. Install centering ring onto hub. Assemble hub onto spindle, tighten outer nut to spec, then secure with keeper, new cotter pin and dustcap.
8. Drill out rotor stud holes to 5/8� diameter if nessessary. Chamfer hole edges to prevent cracks.
9. Place rotor onto hub, and run two or three lugnuts down finger tight to retain rotor. Wipe down rotor with alcohol, laquer thinner or other cleaner to remove grease and oils.
10. Wash hands! Rotor must be squeaky clean
11. We modified the brake hose port so that the hose would face toward the rear center of the car. This can be done with a hacksaw and file, though a cutoff wheel works nice too, Lay out the hose and mark the caliper, then carefully cut the sides down. Using a pair of vise-grips, snap off inner piece and clean up with a file. Install new rubber slider rings and steels bushings into caliper. Assemble pads into caliper, and slide assembly into caliper bracket, lube with silicone grease then screw in new slide pins, tighten to 35 foot-pounds. Check fitment and rotate rotor to check clearance.
12. I used 1979-85 Cadillac Eldorado front hydraulic hoses, which are 17�. Use a piece of to find the optimal length for your application. Install hose with new copper crush washers.
13. Master cylinder and proportioning valve specs are quite varied. I would recommend 19767-70 Mustang or simular disc master cylinder for best performance match available in both power and manual flavors. Some have used the original single master cylinder with success, though this is not recommended. Try with original junction block first. If rears lock up excessively, install an adjustable proportioning valve in the line going to the rear.
14. Bench bleed disc master cylinder, mount on car, then gravity bleed entire system first, then pump bleed and test.