Sagging rear
I put the 4 leaf on mine. I figured the 5 leaf will make the rear too stiff for street use. The 4 leaf will raise the rear back to factory specs. Be ready to have to wrestle with the front bolts. Usually, they are rusted onto the spring, so have to be cut off.
this is a great question. I posted on similar topic the other day re: Mustang's Plus Suspension kits called "Grab aTrack". I'm thinking of buying their 4 1/2 leaf rear spring, standard eye to keep the height of the rear stock, but the suspension will become a bit stiffer, but not 5 leaf stiff. People on this thread seem to think thier products are legitamite, so I'm probably gonna buy thier 4 1/2 leaf rear and their 620 front coil, and KYB Gas shocks (not the stiff gas-adjust ones, but their softer ones). I have a 67 289 convertible as well. Can't wait to get it done, car kinda rides wobbly/loosey goosey now so I'm gonna do control arms, steering rebuild kit, springs etc. Their whole kit is under a grand. Its called super starter kit. I have no first hand experience with their suspension kits, but people on this forum have said they like their stuff.
Speaking of the "dreaded" front bolts. Yeah, i've been twisting mine for about 2 1/2 days now wondering when there gonna slide right out... Im starting to think its not gonna happen!
So please help, what in the heck to do?
What about tacking the nut to the frame, so the bolt will thread itself out a few inches to get started?
So please help, what in the heck to do?
What about tacking the nut to the frame, so the bolt will thread itself out a few inches to get started?
ORIGINAL: c130nav
Speaking of the "dreaded" front bolts. Yeah, i've been twisting mine for about 2 1/2 days now wondering when there gonna slide right out... Im starting to think its not gonna happen!
So please help, what in the heck to do?
What about tacking the nut to the frame, so the bolt will thread itself out a few inches to get started?
Speaking of the "dreaded" front bolts. Yeah, i've been twisting mine for about 2 1/2 days now wondering when there gonna slide right out... Im starting to think its not gonna happen!
So please help, what in the heck to do?
What about tacking the nut to the frame, so the bolt will thread itself out a few inches to get started?
Hey c30nav that actually sounds like a good idea. I've never heard of that being done but it sounds like it will work. If the bushing is seized on there really hard it might want to pull the bushing through the frame. That would not me good. I've always thought it best to count the bolt as a loss and just replace them. Trying to get the bolt out and trying to save the bolt is just a pain.
The way I have done these in the past is to diconnect everything where the only thing left to do is the front bolts. Pull the back of the spring toward the center of the car. This will open a gap between the spring and the spring perch bracket thing. Turn the bolt until you can see the split in the bushing. When you can see the spit drive an old screw driver into the split and that will usually break the bushing loose from the bolt.
I sure hope that made sense to someone.
The way I have done these in the past is to diconnect everything where the only thing left to do is the front bolts. Pull the back of the spring toward the center of the car. This will open a gap between the spring and the spring perch bracket thing. Turn the bolt until you can see the split in the bushing. When you can see the spit drive an old screw driver into the split and that will usually break the bushing loose from the bolt.
I sure hope that made sense to someone.
ORIGINAL: 67t5ponycoupe
Hey c30nav that actually sounds like a good idea. I've never heard of that being done but it sounds like it will work. If the bushing is seized on there really hard it might want to pull the bushing through the frame. That would not me good. I've always thought it best to count the bolt as a loss and just replace them. Trying to get the bolt out and trying to save the bolt is just a pain.
The way I have done these in the past is to diconnect everything where the only thing left to do is the front bolts. Pull the back of the spring toward the center of the car. This will open a gap between the spring and the spring perch bracket thing. Turn the bolt until you can see the split in the bushing. When you can see the spit drive an old screw driver into the split and that will usually break the bushing loose from the bolt.
I sure hope that made sense to someone.
Hey c30nav that actually sounds like a good idea. I've never heard of that being done but it sounds like it will work. If the bushing is seized on there really hard it might want to pull the bushing through the frame. That would not me good. I've always thought it best to count the bolt as a loss and just replace them. Trying to get the bolt out and trying to save the bolt is just a pain.
The way I have done these in the past is to diconnect everything where the only thing left to do is the front bolts. Pull the back of the spring toward the center of the car. This will open a gap between the spring and the spring perch bracket thing. Turn the bolt until you can see the split in the bushing. When you can see the spit drive an old screw driver into the split and that will usually break the bushing loose from the bolt.
I sure hope that made sense to someone.


