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Sagging rear

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Old Feb 15, 2006 | 01:01 PM
  #1  
67Dan67's Avatar
67Dan67
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Default Sagging rear

I was just wondering what input people had on replacing the rear springs on a 67 coupe. Should I go 4 leaf or 5 leaf and the advantages of both? Thanks in advance
Old Feb 15, 2006 | 01:13 PM
  #2  
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mayh3m
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Default RE: Sagging rear

i put 4 leaf mid eye on mine because i really dont plan on doing any rally racing in my mustang. the mid eye will lower it 1 inch too.
Old Feb 15, 2006 | 02:59 PM
  #3  
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Default RE: Sagging rear

I put the 4 leaf on mine. I figured the 5 leaf will make the rear too stiff for street use. The 4 leaf will raise the rear back to factory specs. Be ready to have to wrestle with the front bolts. Usually, they are rusted onto the spring, so have to be cut off.
Old Feb 15, 2006 | 03:42 PM
  #4  
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Default RE: Sagging rear

And it is sooooo much fun getting those rusted bolts out of the front of those springs. For your sake I hope they are not rusted. If they are and you have trouble seek advice here.
Old Feb 15, 2006 | 03:53 PM
  #5  
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Default RE: Sagging rear

Thanks! So the 5 leaf is real stiff? I dont want to lower it so a 4 leaf stock would be the way to go.
Old Feb 15, 2006 | 04:07 PM
  #6  
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Default RE: Sagging rear

this is a great question. I posted on similar topic the other day re: Mustang's Plus Suspension kits called "Grab aTrack". I'm thinking of buying their 4 1/2 leaf rear spring, standard eye to keep the height of the rear stock, but the suspension will become a bit stiffer, but not 5 leaf stiff. People on this thread seem to think thier products are legitamite, so I'm probably gonna buy thier 4 1/2 leaf rear and their 620 front coil, and KYB Gas shocks (not the stiff gas-adjust ones, but their softer ones). I have a 67 289 convertible as well. Can't wait to get it done, car kinda rides wobbly/loosey goosey now so I'm gonna do control arms, steering rebuild kit, springs etc. Their whole kit is under a grand. Its called super starter kit. I have no first hand experience with their suspension kits, but people on this forum have said they like their stuff.
Old Feb 15, 2006 | 04:21 PM
  #7  
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Default RE: Sagging rear

Speaking of the "dreaded" front bolts. Yeah, i've been twisting mine for about 2 1/2 days now wondering when there gonna slide right out... Im starting to think its not gonna happen!

So please help, what in the heck to do?

What about tacking the nut to the frame, so the bolt will thread itself out a few inches to get started?
Old Feb 15, 2006 | 05:40 PM
  #8  
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Default RE: Sagging rear


ORIGINAL: c130nav

Speaking of the "dreaded" front bolts. Yeah, i've been twisting mine for about 2 1/2 days now wondering when there gonna slide right out... Im starting to think its not gonna happen!

So please help, what in the heck to do?

What about tacking the nut to the frame, so the bolt will thread itself out a few inches to get started?
It doesn't matter how much you turn the bolt if it is rusted to the collar of the spring. Get out your sawzall (reciprocating saw) and get yourself several steel cutting blades. Cut the bolt from the inside in two places. I have heard of guys using cutting torches, but that makes a nasty mess of things. It took me about an hour and 3 or 4 beers to cut out mine using the sawzall.
Old Feb 15, 2006 | 07:15 PM
  #9  
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Default RE: Sagging rear

Hey c30nav that actually sounds like a good idea. I've never heard of that being done but it sounds like it will work. If the bushing is seized on there really hard it might want to pull the bushing through the frame. That would not me good. I've always thought it best to count the bolt as a loss and just replace them. Trying to get the bolt out and trying to save the bolt is just a pain.

The way I have done these in the past is to diconnect everything where the only thing left to do is the front bolts. Pull the back of the spring toward the center of the car. This will open a gap between the spring and the spring perch bracket thing. Turn the bolt until you can see the split in the bushing. When you can see the spit drive an old screw driver into the split and that will usually break the bushing loose from the bolt.

I sure hope that made sense to someone.
Old Feb 15, 2006 | 08:49 PM
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Default RE: Sagging rear


ORIGINAL: 67t5ponycoupe

Hey c30nav that actually sounds like a good idea. I've never heard of that being done but it sounds like it will work. If the bushing is seized on there really hard it might want to pull the bushing through the frame. That would not me good. I've always thought it best to count the bolt as a loss and just replace them. Trying to get the bolt out and trying to save the bolt is just a pain.

The way I have done these in the past is to diconnect everything where the only thing left to do is the front bolts. Pull the back of the spring toward the center of the car. This will open a gap between the spring and the spring perch bracket thing. Turn the bolt until you can see the split in the bushing. When you can see the spit drive an old screw driver into the split and that will usually break the bushing loose from the bolt.

I sure hope that made sense to someone.
I tried that. Didn't work for me. Once that sucker is rusted shut, the only way to get the bolt off is to cut it off.



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