OK guys if I add headers which one would you guys recommend and what is the avg. cost for aftermarket headers. Also would I be better off porting the existing 351W heads or buying aftermarket heads and what would you recommend in the heads dept. and what $.

Thanks for the help guys there is just so many choices I want to try and make the best setup possible (within a budget).

pwhit

 

That combo could work and I would figure around 275-300hp pretty easy. You can use the stock converter with that size cam

You dont need huge exepensive race headers, some cheap summit ones will be a big improvement over manifolds. They usually run less than $100, I have used the cheapies like that before, and they last pretty good and run better than I expected. I have a set of summit headers on my GTO and the 455 doesnt mind at all.

Decent porting will run you around $500, then a valve grind, guides, possibly seats for $200-$300. If it needs valves add another $100-$200. So that adds up to $800 bare minimum, for not alot more you can get some good heads. Such as...

TFS-51400002 Trick Flow Twisted Wedge Cylinder Heads for Small Ford
Cylinder Head, Twisted Wedge, Aluminum, Assembled, 61cc Chamber, 170cc Intake Runner, Ford, 289/ 302/ 351W,Pai...
Monday $1,150.95

EDL-60229 Edelbrock Performer RPM Cylinder Heads
Cylinder Head, Performer RPM, Aluminum, Assembled, 60cc Chamber, 170cc Intake Runner, Ford, 289/ 302/ 351W, Ea...
Monday $539.50 EACH or $1080 pair

So for $200 more or the same money(depending onmachinework prices in your area) you can have some good heads.

Here are some cam choices, you can keep most of your stock stuff, and they sure wont be overcammed. its only cam and lifters, no springs.

RN-443902 Crane PowerMax Cam and Lifter Kits
Cam and Lifters, Hydraulic Flat Tappet, Advertised Duration 260/ 272, Lift .456/ .484, Ford,Small Block/ 351W,...
Monday $169.95

UM-K4400 Summit Cam and Lifter Kits
Cam and Lifters, Hydraulic Flat Tappet, Advertised Duration 262/ 272, Lift .448/ .472, Ford,Small Block/ 351W,...
Monday $79.95

EDL-2182 Edelbrock Performer-Plus Cam and Lifter Kits
Cam and Lifters, Hydraulic Flat Tappet, Advertised Duration 270/ 280, Lift .448/ .472, Ford,Small Block/ 351W,...
Monday $141.95

With the better heads I would go for a cam like this one. But you might need a bit more stall to keep it from lurching through intersections.

CCA-CL35-238-3 Competition Cams Xtreme Energy Cam and Lifter Kits
Cam and Lifters, Hydraulic Flat Tappet, Advertised Duration 262/ 270, Lift .493/ .500, Ford, 5.8L/ 351W, Kit
3/6/06 $179.95

its a bit more than the $1500 you wanted to start out with, but if you have better prices for machine work than we do here, well its not going to be much over that. If you go for the extra now, the heads, a bit of cam, headers, and a mild 1900-2200 stall, you should be quite happy with it. That would make for a nice driver with enough power to scare you or the Honda next to you. I know there are a bunch of imports up in Hickory...

 

Sorry this may be a stupid question but what is "stall" and what would I need to achieve a "mild 1900-2200 stall"?

I'm just begining with this engine stuff. I've moved over from jeeps. I feel very comfortable with suspension but engines are still a little intimadating.

I'd love to have something in the 300-350 range to start so I would'nt have to change anything for a while. If I do aftermarket heads, headers, and Xtreme cam set what could you expect to get HP wise?

Thanks,
pwhit

 

YOu can port your heads yourself. There was an article someone posted on here, onot to long ago, that showed you how to do it. There is a kit and everything to buy, but they advise you to practice on a junkyard head first.

 

Yea I saw that article and read through it. Like I said above I'm a little imtimidated with all this engine talk right now but I'm sure it will all come togeather soon. That may be a posibility if push comes to shove, but one thing I always want to trust is my engine and right now I don't trust myself with my engine.

Also what is the difference in full length headers and shorty headers? I noticed Summit brand is only full length. I also read some things on the tri-y headers. Are these only for 289 & 302? If they work on a 351W what is your opinion on them and what is the benifit of their design.

Sorry for all the questions again,
pwhit

 

A stall converter goes between the engine and transmission. Stall rating is what RPM the converter couples and has the least amount of slippage.

Lets say you hold the brakes and floor the gas. If your brakes are strong enough the engine will reach the stall rpm of the converter. Chances are you dont have brakes like that, usually it takes a transbrake which is not needed here. I'll explain that later if you like.

So if you have a 2200 stall that is the RPM the car starts moving.. It gives the engine more rpm to start making torque before it moves the car. If you dont hold the brakes, it will drive normally for a converter you would use. Much over 3000 rpm and you get alot of slippage, heat, and it feels sluggish under 2500rpm.

Its a bit complicated to explain everything about them, so you got the simplified version. If you want an indepth description of how a converter works and what affects stall speed, post it up and I will write something up. It might be in the FAQ too... If it isnt, maybe it should..

 

Thanks, I believe I understand between your explination and I did alittle research on it myself. I looked at B&M and thru the web they recommended a 2400 Holeshot #50412. I did notice that alot of people on ebay are selling the Torque Master. Which one would you guys recommend? I don't know if I mentinoed it before but this will just be a fun car it will not be a daily driver.

Also if I was wanting a real aggressive sound from a cam would the Xtreme Energy you recommended (218-224 duration @ .050) enough or could/should I go with more lift.

And if anyone might be able to answer my header question from before.

pwhit

 

The XE268 would be great, I like the XE line of cams. a 2400 stall would work, I had one in the GTO behind a 455 with 2.93 gears. It makes alot of torque and its a 4000lb car so it stalled a little higher than 2400, but it drove quite nice and didnt overheat the trans. I do have a large cooler and an aluminum radiator in the car, so that probably helped.

If you go with aftermarket heads then step up to the XE274, unless you get rowdy heads like AFRs with over 200cc ports, then I would go with a 3000 stall and a XE284, I think its called 284.. internet is being slow, so the next bigger cam in the XE line... If you do that minimum intake is an Performer RPM and more preferable, a single plane like a Edelbrock TorkerII or Weiand single plane. Cant remember the name of it. My memory is slippin tonight. Be careful not to overcam it, or you will have an engine that doesnt get out of its own way. I am installing a XE274 in my 2V Cleveland, I like how it ran in a friends car.

I have run a torkmaster and a holeshot. Either one will work ok for you.

 

good day I have been following your discussion on the windsor biuld. I just spent the last year putting one together. I must say from the get go, no disrespect to whoever been quoting projected hp rating`s, HP cost alot of money, honest HP , actually mounting the motor on a dyno will make a liar out of everyone. If your looking for honest power to start biuld it for torque. My block 69 351 stroked to 408 9.3 compression parts/labor $7200.00= dyno number`s 418Hp 486 ft pounds torque at 5700 rpm. that will about rip the drive shaft out of anything. For headers I went with jba midlength ceramic coated. there is issue`s with header application when going from 289/302 to 351 because of taller deck hieght. I like brodix for heads. If your gonna biuld don`t do it on the cheap, do it once the right way.

 

rgormansouth, care to post up some specs on your engine? Sounds interesting... very much so. Sounds like a mild daily driver type engine with plenty of power, nothing way radical. So a recipe would be a nice addition so it could be duplicated. If ya dont mind...