Audio System
#1
Audio System
I was looking to invest some money in the audio system of my car. I currently replaced the door and rear speakers and the difference is noticeable and great. But I'm not sure how it would sound with further changes, such as subs. I haven't heard a convertible with a good system and I was wondering if anyone has or has heard one. Is it still good? Or is it a different sound due to the fact that it is convertible?
#2
its definitely not going to sound like a hatchbacks, the bass will not have the enclosed area like the coupes and hatch. i had to 10's in my car for awhile and loved them, yeah it was like the same as my buddies explorer with the exact 10's, but still got peoples attention when i pull up behind them at a light. in the near future i will be turning the backseat area into a box, with one 13 JL audio. i think the bass problems will disappear after that..lol
#3
As mentioned above, if you don't mind losing the rear seats OR trunk space, get a bandpass or dual bandpass...
If your nuts/crazy like me, go dual isobaric bandpass, or go home.
Just make sure, whatever your building/buying, is made to the EXACT speaker specs, or it will sound like crap.
I used to run a bandpass box in my old vehicle, one generic 12" sub, with a 50 watt amp. People could hear me from a block away, without it cranked. I could also "out bass" all those ricer cars with 1000, 2000 watt systems. Its all about the specs, and using a good sealed sturdy box. Oh, I was using 3/4" MDF, both glued and screwed about ever 3". But again, I am a tad crazy on the stereo designs. (second generation)
If your nuts/crazy like me, go dual isobaric bandpass, or go home.
Just make sure, whatever your building/buying, is made to the EXACT speaker specs, or it will sound like crap.
I used to run a bandpass box in my old vehicle, one generic 12" sub, with a 50 watt amp. People could hear me from a block away, without it cranked. I could also "out bass" all those ricer cars with 1000, 2000 watt systems. Its all about the specs, and using a good sealed sturdy box. Oh, I was using 3/4" MDF, both glued and screwed about ever 3". But again, I am a tad crazy on the stereo designs. (second generation)
#4
in my 99 convertible i have an alpine flip out tv, JL 6.5 components in the front, JL 6x9 in the rear, powered by JL 300/4, jl audo 10w6 in a ported box with the hole facing towards the front of the car. thats powered by a JL 500/1. it sounds great. highs sounds great and bass hits pretty decent. people who listens to it also likes it alot. wish i had a sound clip for you.
#5
in my 06, i put sets of JL's component 5x7 sets in the front doors and rear deck, powered by 2 300x2 JL amps.... with 2 10w6V2 powered by a 500/1 JL amp, with the avic n2 head unit by pioneer. dynomat in the trunk = great sound quality.
#7
I used to run a bandpass box in my old vehicle, one generic 12" sub, with a 50 watt amp. People could hear me from a block away, without it cranked. I could also "out bass" all those ricer cars with 1000, 2000 watt systems. Its all about the specs, and using a good sealed sturdy box. Oh, I was using 3/4" MDF, both glued and screwed about ever 3". But again, I am a tad crazy on the stereo designs. (second generation)
#8
call it all you want. I still have the sub at home. It won't fit into my car thou.
FYI, you CAN design a sub box to work with a vehicle. This was designed to be used in a certain type of van, and it worked very well. It used the vehicle as a "secondary" box, so to say.
If you still wish to call bullsh!t, come on over for a visit, and I will show it to you personally.
#9
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#10
i have a hard time believing a sub with only a 50 watt amp would out hit a sub with a 1000 watt amp in a decent box. i'm not saying its impossible, cuz anything is, just really hard to believe, and i've had many sound systems in my cars