Ok... here's my issue. I think my GEM (generic electric module) is fried so none of my powered stuff works -- locks, windshield wipers, convertible top, dome light... with that said... because I don't have $500 to pay Ford for a new one and I can't find a replacement anywhere... is it possible to hotwire the convertible top? Basically speaking, and by no means am I an electrician... can I directly wire / rig the switch and convertible top motor to the battery???

I know there are 3 wires that connect to the toggle switch. one has to be a hot/power wire, and the other 2 are for UP and DOWN...? Right? I don't know where those wires go...im sure they have to run into a relay and/or module.

Then, there's 2 wires that run in/out of the convertible top motor and into a relay. One is red and the other is yellow. What are those wires? (attachment) ... i'm guessing the red is hot/power and the yellow is what?

BAsically... I want to be able to get my convertible top UP and DOWN without having to buy the Generic Electric Module ... also referred to as a Body Control Module (I think) ... is there any way or wiring everything directly from the battery using an in-line fuse??? Thanks!

 

The white/violet is hot in run/acc and is the power to your switch. After the switch, the violet wire is the up and the grey/light blue is the down. But looking at the wiring diagram it looks like it goes through the GEM after the switch so running a hot wire to the switch isn't going to work if that's the case. If you take a test light and put it on the white/violet wire with the key on you probably have power already so a hot wire would be no difference except that you would have power with the key off. Sorry, but it looks like finding a way to bypass the GEM is going to be pretty complicated.

 

Use a Digital Multimeter not a test light. Using a test light in a vehicle with airbags could cause some or all of them to deploy if you test the wrong wire. Do it safely, use a Digital Multimeter.

 

Eh, if you're testing wires that plug in to the convertible top switch you have nothing to worry about with the SRS, and sometimes you'll show 12 volts on a DMM but then when you put a load on it(like with a test light... Or by actually trying to use the switch) there's no power. You don't really have anything to worry about anyway, none of us ever bother disabling the SRS unless we actually need to as part of the diagnosis and none of us have ever had anything happen.