Top replacement
02-18-2016, 10:58 AM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: PA
Posts: 25
Top replacement
Hello all I hope someone here can help me and answer this. I picked up a 1994 mustang 5.0L convertible. The car was a total mess and ive been buying all the parts missing from it. But I the decided to change the interior to a different color. The problem the top was gone but the headliner was ok. Yesterday I was at the salvage yard and I found a 1999 with a perfect top and it had the rear glass window with defrost. My question is how hard would it be to take the entire top from the 1999 and remove my top and bolt the top from the 1999 in its place. That for the help
02-18-2016, 12:26 PM
#2
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 62
I watched a Youtube video of someone installing a new convertible top and about halfway thru I realized that trim shops earn their money. It is possible but you would really have to know what you are doing during a few of the steps. Maybe you could remove the good top and take it to a trim shop and let them reinstall it in your car.
02-21-2016, 02:08 PM
#5
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 1,747
I had a shop install a brand new one for about $1200. Your still gonna spend a decent chunk on a used top that is two decades old. Then spend who knows how long installing it.
Shops earn their money because it is a PITA to do it right. If their are any issues you can always take it back and have the shop fix it instead of trying to do it yourself.
Shops earn their money because it is a PITA to do it right. If their are any issues you can always take it back and have the shop fix it instead of trying to do it yourself.
02-22-2016, 10:39 AM
#6
Foghorn Leghorn
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: I reside in a near constant state of amazment.
Posts: 2,923
There is a video available on Ebay that does a step by step "how to" on the removal and installation of the convertible top.
The cost I was quoted locally was 1400 - 1500 to remove and replace my top.
I bought the video for 20 bucks or so and ordered a convertible top from CJ's and did it having absolutely zero experience.
The way I figured it, for the cost of a video and a replacement top, $300.00+-, I could totally screw the pooch 4 or 5 times and still be ahead of the game and be out nothing but time and materials. I had to buy a decent electric stapler.
It has been a few years and so far, so good with the top holding up but I wouldn't hesitate to do it again. I know I can do better the next time around because the next time I won't forget to order the rear glass with the defrost option.
DOH!
The cost I was quoted locally was 1400 - 1500 to remove and replace my top.
I bought the video for 20 bucks or so and ordered a convertible top from CJ's and did it having absolutely zero experience.
The way I figured it, for the cost of a video and a replacement top, $300.00+-, I could totally screw the pooch 4 or 5 times and still be ahead of the game and be out nothing but time and materials. I had to buy a decent electric stapler.
It has been a few years and so far, so good with the top holding up but I wouldn't hesitate to do it again. I know I can do better the next time around because the next time I won't forget to order the rear glass with the defrost option.
DOH!
03-10-2016, 01:34 PM
#7
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: California
Posts: 38
There is a video available on Ebay that does a step by step "how to" on the removal and installation of the convertible top.
The cost I was quoted locally was 1400 - 1500 to remove and replace my top.
I bought the video for 20 bucks or so and ordered a convertible top from CJ's and did it having absolutely zero experience.
The way I figured it, for the cost of a video and a replacement top, $300.00+-, I could totally screw the pooch 4 or 5 times and still be ahead of the game and be out nothing but time and materials. I had to buy a decent electric stapler.
It has been a few years and so far, so good with the top holding up but I wouldn't hesitate to do it again. I know I can do better the next time around because the next time I won't forget to order the rear glass with the defrost option.
DOH!
The cost I was quoted locally was 1400 - 1500 to remove and replace my top.
I bought the video for 20 bucks or so and ordered a convertible top from CJ's and did it having absolutely zero experience.
The way I figured it, for the cost of a video and a replacement top, $300.00+-, I could totally screw the pooch 4 or 5 times and still be ahead of the game and be out nothing but time and materials. I had to buy a decent electric stapler.
It has been a few years and so far, so good with the top holding up but I wouldn't hesitate to do it again. I know I can do better the next time around because the next time I won't forget to order the rear glass with the defrost option.
DOH!
03-10-2016, 07:47 PM
#8
Foghorn Leghorn
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: I reside in a near constant state of amazment.
Posts: 2,923
Man, if you are at all mechanically inclined, just suck it up, get the video and do it. The only previous experience in upholstering I had was stapling foam on my wifes makeup stool.
I picked up an electric stapler at Lowes. Nothing fancy. I figured out real quick that your trusty Arrow T-50 manual stapler is a non-starter.
A couple lessons I learned that I would do different,
1: use more batting between the convertible frame and the fabric of the roof. I didn't use enough and now there are impressions of the staples showing on every bow.
2: Not make the top as tight as I did. It closes fine and everything but I was so worried about having sags around the rear window that I pulled it just a hair too tight. As far as I could see, getting that right is the money shot on the whole deal. Get it right and you're a hero, mess it up and you're pulling it apart and doing it again.
3. This is a gem that I have learned since I did this. Use stainless steel staples. It seems pretty obvious now but you don't know what you don't know and that never even entered my mind. For what it's worth, the staples I pulled out weren't stainless.
4. Use vise grip needle nose pliers to reconnect the little spring on the side back into the grommet. That part's a bitch. The guy on the video distinctly said, "Use vise grip needle nose pliers", but of course I didn't and figured I would use my regular needle nose pliers. Because of the angle you have to pull and as much force as you have to use they slipped and I wound up punching myself in the face and breaking my nose. It was tender as hell and I had quite a nose whistle for several weeks afterwards.
I had the video playing on my PC in the garage as I followed dudes instructions, step by step and as I recall, I started with the tear down on Saturday morning with a cup of coffee in my hand and finished Sunday just before dinner, so I figure probably at least 15 hours and probably a few more. Yeah, I know it seems like a lot but I didn't have a clue and would have been lost without the CD but in the end it was totally worth it. Broken nose and all.
I picked up an electric stapler at Lowes. Nothing fancy. I figured out real quick that your trusty Arrow T-50 manual stapler is a non-starter.
A couple lessons I learned that I would do different,
1: use more batting between the convertible frame and the fabric of the roof. I didn't use enough and now there are impressions of the staples showing on every bow.
2: Not make the top as tight as I did. It closes fine and everything but I was so worried about having sags around the rear window that I pulled it just a hair too tight. As far as I could see, getting that right is the money shot on the whole deal. Get it right and you're a hero, mess it up and you're pulling it apart and doing it again.
3. This is a gem that I have learned since I did this. Use stainless steel staples. It seems pretty obvious now but you don't know what you don't know and that never even entered my mind. For what it's worth, the staples I pulled out weren't stainless.
4. Use vise grip needle nose pliers to reconnect the little spring on the side back into the grommet. That part's a bitch. The guy on the video distinctly said, "Use vise grip needle nose pliers", but of course I didn't and figured I would use my regular needle nose pliers. Because of the angle you have to pull and as much force as you have to use they slipped and I wound up punching myself in the face and breaking my nose. It was tender as hell and I had quite a nose whistle for several weeks afterwards.
I had the video playing on my PC in the garage as I followed dudes instructions, step by step and as I recall, I started with the tear down on Saturday morning with a cup of coffee in my hand and finished Sunday just before dinner, so I figure probably at least 15 hours and probably a few more. Yeah, I know it seems like a lot but I didn't have a clue and would have been lost without the CD but in the end it was totally worth it. Broken nose and all.
Last edited by fastbackford351; 03-12-2016 at 10:56 AM.
03-11-2016, 08:56 PM
#9
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Georgia
Posts: 131
I bought the same DVD but have not done the install yet. I am glad that someone gave real feed back on the project with good results. I figured 1 day to tear it down, one day for the rear curtain and 1 day for the top.
03-21-2016, 06:40 PM
#10
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: California
Posts: 38
I decided to have a friend who does custom car upholstery do it for me. Im getting the top and he said he'd do it for $65/hr and should be able to get it done in 8 hours (he's already gone over the car to see what he's dealing with). This guy does phenomenal work so for $520, its well worth not spending 3 days of frustration by myself. Let me know how the others go, i'd love to hear the feedback!