Vista

I really recommend claying even though the stang is new. There are still contaminants in the paint. Most new cars actually have railroad dust and the claybar will remove that.

Since your car is so new, I would just use a mild abbrasive polish/swirl remover. I always start with the least aggressive first and if that doesn't work I step up to the next aggressive. I would start with a light abbrasive polish and a white polishing pad. If that doesn't get the results you are looking for, then you would step up to an orange light cutting pad. After you get all the imperfections out, your washing and drying technique is very important.

I use the 2 bucket method for washing. One bucket for your soap solution and another bucket for your rinse. Also a good wash mitt is needed. Always dry with a good grade microfiber so you don't bring more swirls and fine scratches into your paint. You will always get fine swirls but you can avoid a lot of it if you are careful with the paint/ Let me know if I can be of more help.

 

Thanks for the advice. What would you recommend for my needs and what would it cost, pm me, thanks.

 

Pm sent bud!

 

Silly question - but what is the difference between a high speed rotary and a random orbital [&:] I think I know but want to hear it from the pros

Does a random orbital not spin continuously in one direction at a high speed? I have an old Black & Decker polisher that I used with outer-edge cutting buffs to polish aluminum and it spins continously - I'm assuming this is a high speed rotary [&:]

 

The dual action polishers move by a jiggling motion. The irregular motion prevents the polisher from burning up the paint. The pad does not stay in one spot. It is very user friendly and can be used by a beginner or a pro. It just takes a lot longer to achieve the results you would get with a rotary but is a lot safer. There are still some things that you must use a rotary for like heavy swirls and scratches.

A rotary can spin between speeds of 600-3000 rpms. It basically spins in a complete circle at high speeds causing a lot of heat. You can burn up the paint so much easier with one of these and have to keep it moving at all times. You can get your desired results in the half the time of a dual action polisher but you have to be very careful.

I would say that the Black and Decker you have is just a polisher. Most Craftsman,Black and Decker,etc. do not really have enough speed to do any correction. They can mainly be used for applying waxes or sealants.

 

Justang,

The PowerPolish doesn't really dust. It's nice to work with. I dress my trim with Back-to-Black beforehand and there's little mess.

As for the cut... not sure how to describe it... it's more dependent on the pad, if that makes any sense.

Comparing it to a pro polish is something I'm not really that familiar with, so I'm not sure what to tell you.

It's designed for consumers (which I am, I guess). If you need a heavy cut, use a yellow pad. If you need a light cut, use an orange. Hopefully that helps.

 

Unless you know what you're doing, you don't want to use a rotary -- it's a great way to mess up your paint, or simply burn right through it... tempertures build up pretty quickly, especially if you're using a wool pad. If you've ever seen Steve Martin in "The Jerk," he was using a rotary.

The dual-action random-orbital machines spin but also move around more like your natural waxing motion, so it provides even application of a product. They're much easier to use properly.

 

Thanks Jim! I was just curious. I've used a ton of products and that was one that I wasn't familiar with. The Poorboys SSR's (swirl removers) do dust like most abbrasive polishes but get really good results. I've been using the Optimum line of polishes and compounds lately on my customers cars. They do not dust at all will not stain the trim and can be worked longer than most polishes. I have had excellent results with them and they save me a lot of time.