Turtle Wax ChipStick
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 24
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Turtle Wax ChipStick
Anyone used this product? I have a blue mustang and it hasa few small chips and scratches on the driver side and on top. Any other products (that aren't expensive) that you could recommend to hide them?
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 303
From: United States
Turtle Wax ChipStick
i use the red for my red stang.. i dont use the stick... just the wax.. i have no chips<IMG src=smileys/smiley1.gif border="0"> <edited><editID>99dropTop</editID><editDate>37822.0923842593</editDate></edited>
I ♥ Acer
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 2,199
From: United States
Turtle Wax ChipStick
It SUCKS. Colored wax if simply foolish. You're applying it on top of CLEAR COAT. it hazes up and looks like ***.
Wanna know how to do it right?
OK, I've got a 1997 red SL2 stick. The paint had it's usually scratches swirls and that 'bumpy' feeling that pretty much every car has unless it's new. I thought it looked good, but I wanted better. So I went out and raided pep boys after doing some research on meguiars/mothers websites.
Got a clay bar system, Scratch X, show car glaze #7, and mothers pure paste carnuba wax.
The clay bar lifted ALL surface containaments off of the surface and now it's smooth as glass (except for paint chips). Definately sold on this product.
Scratch X followed that up. It is garenteed not to leave more scratches than what it takes out. And if it can't take it out, then a pro w/ a rotory buffer will have to do the work. I applied wto coats of this to the entire car, and I can BARELY see any of the scratches (and you really have to look for it). Buy it.
Meguiars show car glaze #7 followed that up. Gave it a real nice depth and shine. Buy this stuff. Darker colors will notice more of a difference than lighter colors.
And finnaly, Mothers pure paste carnuba wax. Goes on easy, gives you tennis elbow taking it off. But, the surface is SO slick that it's sick. Water sheets off immediately. Paint is definately protected for a long time.
All and all, buy these products. Meguiars makes all of it except for the wax.
And now I've gotta chip in on washing a car, I see soooo many people do it wrong and scratch the paint that it makes me cringe.
Get a lot of terry cloth 100% cotton towels. By a lot I mean at least 50. Should carry 'em at Pep Boys. Make sure they're soft and have decent nap in 'em. These are an investment. I can not stress this enough. Have plenty, you'll need 'em. Also get 2 laundry baskets.
Then get a CLEAN 5 gallon bucket that's never had dirt, ect., in it. Pour in about 5 oz. of meguiars/ mothers gold car wash. This is the best I've found. Genarics work, but these are awsome products. Shoot in a steady stream of water and mix up the water.
Toss in a couple towels. Use one towel to clean the roof and toss it in the empty laundry basket. DO NOT RE USE ANY TOWELS!!! If you do, wether the surface seemed clean or not, there WILL be dirt caught in the towel. And if you use it again on a different surface, you'll just be dragging that dirt across the surface and create scratches. Only use a towel once per panel. Never put it back in the bucket. Dirt will contaminate the water and the rest of the towels.
Rinse off the suds and continue to wash the rest of the vehicle in the motion as described above.
Once completed, move the car inside a garage or under a tree to get it outta the light and reduce the chance of sunspots forming. Dry off the car in the same manner as you did with washing. You have 2 laundry baskets, one for ditry and one for clean towels. DO NOT confuse them, ever.
That is how to clean/dry a car CORRECTLY. It is next to impossible to scratch a finish like this. Also, when the towels are washed, use the presoak setting and extra rinse. Only use liquid soap, and never softener (it contains oils that will cause the towels to streak when trying to dry/wax/polish/ect. Once in a blue moon is fine, but not all the time), and only use bleach when needed.
For your rims, I have found nothing better than Simple Green Automotive. It foams and stays on your rims, won't hurt the finish, and kicks butt. Once you have used a towel for rims, NEVER put it back with the rest of your regular towels. All that brake dust will never come out and will get dirt in the rest of your towels. That towel is now only for rims. Nothing else. This same product also works great for any sort of cloth. Use a vacume after you've sprayed and scrubbed to vacume out the dirt and make sure you don't have a drying ring left.
For waxing/polishing/surface prep, use an applicator pad. It spreads the product much more evenly. LIGHTLY spraying the pad with a mist of water before applying the product will help it spread even more evenly. To buff, use a seperate terry cloth towel. Once used, put it in the dirty basket. Never mix up the pads you used for surface prep/polish/wax. Your results will be comprimised since product will probably remain in the foam inside of the pad.
I know it sounds really ****, but that's how you wash a car without scratching it. I see so many people use a single sponge for the whole car, including rims, then a chamios for the whole car, then bitch about scratches. PREVENTIVE MAINTNENCE PEOPLE!!!! That's the way to keep scratches away and keep 'em from coming back. Please follow my instructions. You'll find that the results are deffinately worth it.
Wanna know how to do it right?
OK, I've got a 1997 red SL2 stick. The paint had it's usually scratches swirls and that 'bumpy' feeling that pretty much every car has unless it's new. I thought it looked good, but I wanted better. So I went out and raided pep boys after doing some research on meguiars/mothers websites.
Got a clay bar system, Scratch X, show car glaze #7, and mothers pure paste carnuba wax.
The clay bar lifted ALL surface containaments off of the surface and now it's smooth as glass (except for paint chips). Definately sold on this product.
Scratch X followed that up. It is garenteed not to leave more scratches than what it takes out. And if it can't take it out, then a pro w/ a rotory buffer will have to do the work. I applied wto coats of this to the entire car, and I can BARELY see any of the scratches (and you really have to look for it). Buy it.
Meguiars show car glaze #7 followed that up. Gave it a real nice depth and shine. Buy this stuff. Darker colors will notice more of a difference than lighter colors.
And finnaly, Mothers pure paste carnuba wax. Goes on easy, gives you tennis elbow taking it off. But, the surface is SO slick that it's sick. Water sheets off immediately. Paint is definately protected for a long time.
All and all, buy these products. Meguiars makes all of it except for the wax.
And now I've gotta chip in on washing a car, I see soooo many people do it wrong and scratch the paint that it makes me cringe.
Get a lot of terry cloth 100% cotton towels. By a lot I mean at least 50. Should carry 'em at Pep Boys. Make sure they're soft and have decent nap in 'em. These are an investment. I can not stress this enough. Have plenty, you'll need 'em. Also get 2 laundry baskets.
Then get a CLEAN 5 gallon bucket that's never had dirt, ect., in it. Pour in about 5 oz. of meguiars/ mothers gold car wash. This is the best I've found. Genarics work, but these are awsome products. Shoot in a steady stream of water and mix up the water.
Toss in a couple towels. Use one towel to clean the roof and toss it in the empty laundry basket. DO NOT RE USE ANY TOWELS!!! If you do, wether the surface seemed clean or not, there WILL be dirt caught in the towel. And if you use it again on a different surface, you'll just be dragging that dirt across the surface and create scratches. Only use a towel once per panel. Never put it back in the bucket. Dirt will contaminate the water and the rest of the towels.
Rinse off the suds and continue to wash the rest of the vehicle in the motion as described above.
Once completed, move the car inside a garage or under a tree to get it outta the light and reduce the chance of sunspots forming. Dry off the car in the same manner as you did with washing. You have 2 laundry baskets, one for ditry and one for clean towels. DO NOT confuse them, ever.
That is how to clean/dry a car CORRECTLY. It is next to impossible to scratch a finish like this. Also, when the towels are washed, use the presoak setting and extra rinse. Only use liquid soap, and never softener (it contains oils that will cause the towels to streak when trying to dry/wax/polish/ect. Once in a blue moon is fine, but not all the time), and only use bleach when needed.
For your rims, I have found nothing better than Simple Green Automotive. It foams and stays on your rims, won't hurt the finish, and kicks butt. Once you have used a towel for rims, NEVER put it back with the rest of your regular towels. All that brake dust will never come out and will get dirt in the rest of your towels. That towel is now only for rims. Nothing else. This same product also works great for any sort of cloth. Use a vacume after you've sprayed and scrubbed to vacume out the dirt and make sure you don't have a drying ring left.
For waxing/polishing/surface prep, use an applicator pad. It spreads the product much more evenly. LIGHTLY spraying the pad with a mist of water before applying the product will help it spread even more evenly. To buff, use a seperate terry cloth towel. Once used, put it in the dirty basket. Never mix up the pads you used for surface prep/polish/wax. Your results will be comprimised since product will probably remain in the foam inside of the pad.
I know it sounds really ****, but that's how you wash a car without scratching it. I see so many people use a single sponge for the whole car, including rims, then a chamios for the whole car, then bitch about scratches. PREVENTIVE MAINTNENCE PEOPLE!!!! That's the way to keep scratches away and keep 'em from coming back. Please follow my instructions. You'll find that the results are deffinately worth it.
I ♥ Acer
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 2,199
From: United States
Turtle Wax ChipStick
here's only one problem with a chamios: it's smooth.
Why's that a problem? Well, look at your standard terry cloth towel. See all those dangling threads? Those hold on to the dirt, like a chamios will, but since you're moving the towel in many different directions, they overlap and dirt never sees your paint.
The chamios is what a lot of people use. But it's not the best. If you miss any dirt, even the smallest amount, you'll basically be dragging sandpaper across your paint.
I forgot to mention this in my long 'scpeel': Rinse off the car REALLY good before you start washing. Gets the stuff that's not on there really good off. Keeps your towels cleaner. It also cools the paint a LOT. Take a dark car that's been parked in a lot on an 80 degree day and mist the surface with water. You'll see steam!!! The paint can EASILY reach 110F despite the color in those kinds of conditions.
Again, this is my take. If you choose against it, that's your opinion. But at least try it. It really does give EXCELENT results.
Why's that a problem? Well, look at your standard terry cloth towel. See all those dangling threads? Those hold on to the dirt, like a chamios will, but since you're moving the towel in many different directions, they overlap and dirt never sees your paint.
The chamios is what a lot of people use. But it's not the best. If you miss any dirt, even the smallest amount, you'll basically be dragging sandpaper across your paint.
I forgot to mention this in my long 'scpeel': Rinse off the car REALLY good before you start washing. Gets the stuff that's not on there really good off. Keeps your towels cleaner. It also cools the paint a LOT. Take a dark car that's been parked in a lot on an 80 degree day and mist the surface with water. You'll see steam!!! The paint can EASILY reach 110F despite the color in those kinds of conditions.
Again, this is my take. If you choose against it, that's your opinion. But at least try it. It really does give EXCELENT results.
I ♥ Acer
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 2,199
From: United States
Turtle Wax ChipStick
The single chamios for washing ISN'T a good idea. Rinsing will remove some particles, but not all. Chamios don't have 'nap', those little threads dangling down. They're smooth. If you wash with a chamios, or a sponge, the dirt will be on the SURFACE of it, and you'll basically be draging sandpaper along your paint.
Prime example: my neighbors across the street. Their kid is 19, has a 1998 Pointiac Grand Am, white. Rinses it off. Washes it with a single chamios, with a single bucket. Drys it with a seperate one. In their driveway, in the sun. Kid's got scratches galor.
My dad bought a 2002 blacksilver SL2 a little while ago, and he works near an airport and a factory. Some acid etching was found on his car, and he fliped out. The then proceded to tell me that the Meguiars Deep Crystal cleaner will ruin his paint (which is less agressive than scratch X, and he used that for a caked on bird dropping. can't even tell now), then I try it on the inside of his door jam and he's sold on it. The Deep Crystal cleaner along with #7 show car glaze got rid of the etchings.
I don't like liquid waxes. I personally think paste waxes are easier to apply and they last longer. It's really a personal preference.
Well, you're talking maybe 30 min to wash, 25 to dry if you do it right.
By doing it right I mean after you finish washing the car, move it in the shade and KEEP IT THERE untill you're done with the ENTIRE process.
To do the clay bar, in the pack they give you instant detail stuff, a bar, and liquid wax (in the mothers). I don't use the wax. Never use CLEANER WAX. NEVER. It won't give the same results as PURE WAX. Anyway, spray down a section (the hood, for instance). But only do a small section. Then rub the bar ONLY over an area with the spray. Move on to the next section, spraying as you go. Don't worry about the product drying on the car.
Dry off the excess detail stuff. Then comes the fun part. Apply a small amount of scratch X to a terry towel/applicator (I preffer applicator, more even application of product). Rub like it's wax. Wait for it to dry, then buff it with a terry towel. You can use an orbital/D.A. buffer for this if you want, but you'll go through the product a lot faster. The benefit? The results will be better. I personally own a Porter Cable 7424 buffer that I use with foam pads. It is the ultimate randome orbit, will never scratch the paint, is a lot faster and gives much better results than by hand. 1 7oz. tube is sufficient for a car with lots of scratches or 2 with average.
Then do the polish the same way. Then wax it the same way.
DO ALL OF THIS IN THE SHADE, I CAN NOT STRESS THIS ENOUGH!!!!
Prime example: my neighbors across the street. Their kid is 19, has a 1998 Pointiac Grand Am, white. Rinses it off. Washes it with a single chamios, with a single bucket. Drys it with a seperate one. In their driveway, in the sun. Kid's got scratches galor.
My dad bought a 2002 blacksilver SL2 a little while ago, and he works near an airport and a factory. Some acid etching was found on his car, and he fliped out. The then proceded to tell me that the Meguiars Deep Crystal cleaner will ruin his paint (which is less agressive than scratch X, and he used that for a caked on bird dropping. can't even tell now), then I try it on the inside of his door jam and he's sold on it. The Deep Crystal cleaner along with #7 show car glaze got rid of the etchings.
I don't like liquid waxes. I personally think paste waxes are easier to apply and they last longer. It's really a personal preference.
Well, you're talking maybe 30 min to wash, 25 to dry if you do it right.
By doing it right I mean after you finish washing the car, move it in the shade and KEEP IT THERE untill you're done with the ENTIRE process.
To do the clay bar, in the pack they give you instant detail stuff, a bar, and liquid wax (in the mothers). I don't use the wax. Never use CLEANER WAX. NEVER. It won't give the same results as PURE WAX. Anyway, spray down a section (the hood, for instance). But only do a small section. Then rub the bar ONLY over an area with the spray. Move on to the next section, spraying as you go. Don't worry about the product drying on the car.
Dry off the excess detail stuff. Then comes the fun part. Apply a small amount of scratch X to a terry towel/applicator (I preffer applicator, more even application of product). Rub like it's wax. Wait for it to dry, then buff it with a terry towel. You can use an orbital/D.A. buffer for this if you want, but you'll go through the product a lot faster. The benefit? The results will be better. I personally own a Porter Cable 7424 buffer that I use with foam pads. It is the ultimate randome orbit, will never scratch the paint, is a lot faster and gives much better results than by hand. 1 7oz. tube is sufficient for a car with lots of scratches or 2 with average.
Then do the polish the same way. Then wax it the same way.
DO ALL OF THIS IN THE SHADE, I CAN NOT STRESS THIS ENOUGH!!!!
I ♥ Acer
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 2,199
From: United States
Turtle Wax ChipStick
About cleaner waxes: They do work, don't get me wrong. But you'll see better results if you use 2 different products, one meant to clean and another to wax. Cleaner wax is a comprimise. It won't clean as well as cleaner and it won't wax (protect) as well as wax. It must do both at once. Polish is optional but gives you a real nice reflection, great color, and awsome depth. If you want it doen right, it is mandatory.
3 steps, 3 shmeps. There are 5, 6 if you want it right.
1. Wash
2. Dry
3. Clean
4. Polish
5. Wax
6. Maintain apperance (definately worth it, wash your car at least once a week if time allows to keep your car looking it's best)
And everybody's favorite stuff: cleaning glass. Windex works fine in the shade, but ever notice that you'll see streaks in your rear window / front windsheild in the sun? Found something. It's called 'Invisible Glass', and it's made by stoner (yes, i said stoner. haha. ). It won't streak, evaporates fast, and cleans like it's called. Clean both inside and out with (you guessed it) a terry cloth towel and this stuff. Follow directions too (duh). 1 terry or 2 should clean all the glass, including mirrors.
3 steps, 3 shmeps. There are 5, 6 if you want it right.
1. Wash
2. Dry
3. Clean
4. Polish
5. Wax
6. Maintain apperance (definately worth it, wash your car at least once a week if time allows to keep your car looking it's best)
And everybody's favorite stuff: cleaning glass. Windex works fine in the shade, but ever notice that you'll see streaks in your rear window / front windsheild in the sun? Found something. It's called 'Invisible Glass', and it's made by stoner (yes, i said stoner. haha. ). It won't streak, evaporates fast, and cleans like it's called. Clean both inside and out with (you guessed it) a terry cloth towel and this stuff. Follow directions too (duh). 1 terry or 2 should clean all the glass, including mirrors.
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 303
From: United States
Turtle Wax ChipStick
jeep, i just went out and bought mothers gold car wash, clay bar kit, and california gold carnuba wax(in the huge tin), and 4 applicator pads... but i forgot the meguiars #7 polish!!!!! so i need to go back and get that.. its raining anyway... no big loss.</P>
forget pep boys.. i go directly to mothers for my stuff<IMG src=smileys/smiley17.gif border="0"></P>
I ♥ Acer
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 2,199
From: United States
Turtle Wax ChipStick
You might be happy with the Meguiars #9 polish if you don't have a brand new paint job. But #7 is awsome for those with hardly any swirls/scratches.
Also, if you have a good buffer (PC 7424 ROCKS) and foam pads, try the Meguiars Gold Class wax, liquid (liquids are much easier to apply by machine, solids are by hand and my elbows are starting to kill me). Did it to my buds cavy's hood, and you couldn't drop a T shirt on it without it sliding off 8 hours later.
Also, if you have a good buffer (PC 7424 ROCKS) and foam pads, try the Meguiars Gold Class wax, liquid (liquids are much easier to apply by machine, solids are by hand and my elbows are starting to kill me). Did it to my buds cavy's hood, and you couldn't drop a T shirt on it without it sliding off 8 hours later.