good thing we're not all neighbors...actually it would be cool if all of us got together at a track or something...but first i need a GN or 5.0 if possible

 

f**k that, I'm rolling in the econobox.

It's stock...I swear (ok....stock header off a '92....opened up stock head...*stock* clutch....uh....stock tranny.....yeah.......)<img border="0" src=smileys/smiley4.gif border="0">

If anyone plans on going into this s**t, don't do it by hand. You'll kill yourself in no time flat. Use this buffer, it's the best non-rotary buffer on the market. You won't put in about 200,000 "racing" stripes with it, and when you get foam velcro backed pads, you can change between pads in under 10 seconds (really handy).http://www.coastaltool.com/cgi-bin/S...983+1059065238

That's the cheapest I've ever seen it, and that's where I got mine from (some places charge ovr $200!!!)

 

wow thats a nice buffer</P>

 

and it doesnt leave swirl marks?

 

ya check it out, the counterweights make it not go in an eliptical pattern (i think) which would make swirl marks alot less visable because it doesnt run in a consistant pattern (i think)

 

thats a lot of 'i think'....lol

 

lol i havent used the buffer, i was just reading the tutorial on it and "i think" thats how it works

 

The foam pads in combination with the pad's movement (it moves around objects and stops rotating so fast when it hits ridges and such...just like a pro would adjust by hand) keeps swirl marks from happening, asuming you keep the pads CLEAN.

Another nice thing about foam pads: say you're spinning at 6000 RPM working out a scratch. Your hand moves and the pad accidently hits a ridge by the base of the attena. Instead of ripping the antenna down, it disintegrates in that area, keeping damage from happening.

 

Is there anything else I should do since my paint is slightly faded? Or will this method work well on it too. The guy I bought it from had it detailed lol. I believe they smeared some kind of cheap wax over the faded red paint. I'd like to get it shining again, it isn't too bad at all for a 91 with original paint, butthe smear job is. It hasn't any chips or scratchesin the paint at all. At least they did a decent job on the interior.

 

The method should work fine. Try using #9 polish by hand, it will help get most the oxidation off.

Then go back over it with #9 by machine. Doing it by hand first will remove the really bad oxidation/faded top layer of paint without clogging up your pads badly.

Put it this way: Today I got a 2000 SC2 blackberry (purple so dark it's almost black, I love it) 5 speed with scratches galore, marks from a key job, ect., with faded paint (it's a 2000, shouldn't have been faded at all!!!) shining like a show room car using Scratch X, #9, and cheap mass produced industrial wax and a s**tty $30 wal mart special buffer.

Imagine that with good wax and a real buffer.