I need to get my quarter window moldings fixed because they are WAY ugly now. They are all pitted and dry rotted. Anyone know where they sell the replacement kits at? All I can find are kits to glue these little covers on them and I dont want to half-*** fix them. I've never tried to take them off, are they attached to the window itself or are they just glued around it? What I mean is ,am I going to have to buy new windows or have someone perfessionally re-do them , or can I buy a kit and do a decent job myself? Also does anyone know where I can find chrome front & rear window trim? I saw an older stang the other day with chrome window trimbut can't find it on the web anywhere. Think he just have the normal trim chromed or something? His was like a 85 or so hatchback and mines a 91 Coupe . Know where I can find it?

 

they are part of the window,you have to pull the interior trim off and there are nuts to take off,the window has studs.I've heard that somebody is making replacement mouldings now,oem is the whole window-$600 a pop.hope this helps.

 

Well actually I'm happy that they are part of the window. i can get the windows cheap from my friend at the mustang salvage. i was just afraid that if they were part of the window that it would be hard to get the window out and I'de have to sand and glue and do a bunch of crazy stuff to get them back in. Is it relatively simple to take out and put in new windows? i mean do i have to do anything to seal them once they are in? Thanks for the help by the way</P>


Oh and I noticed the combo you are running . I plan on building a 460 over the next few years and also going with a c-6. It's going into my 1991 Knotchback and it's motor is going into my 86 Ranger. how hard was it to get your engine andc-6in there? Did you have to do anything to the firewall because of the tranny?</P>

 

The motor and trany slide right in with out any cutting or welding,you don't have to do anything to make it fit.I've got oldKaufman 1 7/8"headers and they seem to fit the best,the hooker super comps are a little tight.you can piece your own swap kit together if you want to,get a early 90's 4x4 truck oil pan and pick-up,slide the trans crossmember back,bolt on 70's 390 truck motor mounts onto the 460 mounts with a spacer.It's way cheaper.Hope this helps.

 

Ragnarok,</P>


I have a 5.0 resto mag and they have the moldings and the tool to do the job nice and clean/professional looking. -- you may want to go online www.50resto.com and check them out and/or get their catalog (it has ALOT more than the website). - their prices are not bad either...very competitive.</P>


</P>

 

What all did you have to do to the suspention nostang?And are you running a 8.8 or 9 inch rear end. Thats cool about not having tocut on anything , everyone else I talk to says I'de have a hell of a time trying to get the thing to fit but I've seen it done before. Seen one in a mustang that is , notthe process of putting it in. It was a silver 89-93 hatchback , don't know what year exactly. A guy that works for this body shop in Knoxville had it , it was badass. There is another orange one I saw at a car show in Pigeon Forge TN and it was mean looking . I think Big blocks look so much meaner.People tell me I should stay with my small block and build it , but I've always wanted a big block . Size matters I guess hehehe . </P>


Whitehaw , awsome i'll check out the webpage. The guy at the body shop here said he could use some kind of epoxy stuff on my moldings and sand and paint them and they'd look like new for $75 . Whioch is nice and all but my moldings are shot to hell , pitted and little chips are falling off , do you think i should check the kit out or trust him that he can really fix them? He does specialize in restoring stangs and he has painted several cars for my family with excellent results. Even when we traded in my sisters 1999 malibu she had backed into a tree the dealership couldnt tell it had been wreck. I swear she damn near tore the rear off that car. So he does great work , I just dont see how these things can be fixed without falling apart again eventually. Maybe he can though , but i'll check that kit out anyways , Thanks man</P>

 

I'm running a 9 inch,but a friend of mine used the stock 8.8 in his 94 with a big block and ran 10.30's with out any problems.We don't use trans brakes or set up the trans to shift too hard so that probably helps.All of the engine compartments on fox bodies are the same and the sn95's are almost the same,the engines fit the same in all of them.I've been running big block fox'es for 15 years now and people always ask "how in the world did you get that thing in there?" The swapisn't that hard to do if you kinda know what you're doing.I sure like the instant big block torque,and it would be a little hard to get a small block to run with mine and still be streetable and reliable.If you need any more information,let me know.by the way,have you been to any of the World Ford Challenges?

 

Nope , i wish i could go to one though. Yeah i have always loved the torque from a big block , it's just so much different from a even a nice small block. A guy at my church just finished his 69 camaro . It's got a n/a 502 crate engine in it and that thing is a dang monster he wants to put a weiand roots type blower on it too soit's going to be almost scarey. I can't wait to get a 460 and drop that thing in. i dont have much money to spend since I'm trying to build this 5.0 and save money for a house in a couple of years. So i hope I can just buy a 460 from a truck or something and just rebuild it . I have seen what people want for heads though andthey are CRAZY expensive. Can you get some decent power from stock heads if you get them ported? Hopefully I can just get a stock rebuild with ported heads, cam , and a nice intake and carb without going bankrupt. I would think that even a stock rebuild with a few goodies and better parts would still give some nice power over my 5.0 . Did you have to do alot to the front suspension ?

 

If the front srings are for a 5.0,they'll be fine,I have used 4 cyl springs but it pretty much bottoms them out.You can do a home port job on the bump in the exhaust port,the intake is good already.You'll need to run a cam with around 280 degrees advertised,a bigger cam won't work very well with the poor exhaust port,you don't really need to spin a big block past 5500 rpm anyways,let the torque do the talking!!With a short dual plane intake you can close the hood with out an air cleaner for the sleeper look.I ran mid 11's with stock heads 268 comp cams,performer intake,750 holley,2.50 gears,yes 2.50 gears!and 2200 stall converter,in a street car that I drove 90 miles to the track one way. Good luck on your project,let me know if you have any more questions.

 

Ragnarok,</P>


Yep, I believe he can do it. (restore the moldings). You won't be able to tell. -- don't expect them to last as new ones would, BUT they will last a long time. -- I would go with him doing it.</P>