Wax question?
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 163
From:
RE: Wax question?
Meguars is top notch, what are you planning on putting the wax on with? I have had good success waxing my black cobra with regular blue shop "paper towels". But those applicator pads also work good but they tend to load up with wax.
1st Gear Member
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 141
From:
RE: Wax question?
The best wax is none at all.
Think of it like this- Every time you apply wax, you're building up the coat of wax. Have you ever tried dipping a match stick or other object in the melted wax from a candle? At first, its clear and shinny. The more you put on, the more hazy it looks. Sure, its shinny on the surface, but the true color underneath looks dulled. Additionally, the wax softens with heat, and will actually make dirt stick to the wax. Now, you have dirt stuck on the car, which will normally scratch the paint when you try to take it off.
My suggestion:
Start off with wax and grease remover, or, for a cheaper, and just as effective, and safe alternative, laquer thinner. (It will soften and remove wax, tar, and rubber, but not paint- keep away from vinyl graphics, and don't a rag covered with laquer thinner sit on any panel for a long time). This will get rid of all the wax and car wash "clear coat protectant". Use a terry cloth or other soft, clean rag. Next, go to Advance Auto Parts, or anywhere else you can find a product called "Liquid Glass". It comes in a pint sized tin can. Kind of a gold/brown color. This is the best product I've found. It's been around for quite a few years.It's not a wax- its a polish. You apply the polish and wipe it off like a liquid wax. Once you're done with that, park the car out in the hot sun for a couple hours. Then, pull it back into the shade and let it cool off. You'll see a little haze and a few spots that look like you missed before. Thats normal- its just the excess that doesn't soak in. Let it cool off and wipe it down again with a microfiber towel.
Liquid glass is by far the best product I've seen for protecting and giving a great finish. One or maybe two coats is more than enough for a summer. And keep the car out of the cheap waxes at the automatic car wash!
Think of it like this- Every time you apply wax, you're building up the coat of wax. Have you ever tried dipping a match stick or other object in the melted wax from a candle? At first, its clear and shinny. The more you put on, the more hazy it looks. Sure, its shinny on the surface, but the true color underneath looks dulled. Additionally, the wax softens with heat, and will actually make dirt stick to the wax. Now, you have dirt stuck on the car, which will normally scratch the paint when you try to take it off.
My suggestion:
Start off with wax and grease remover, or, for a cheaper, and just as effective, and safe alternative, laquer thinner. (It will soften and remove wax, tar, and rubber, but not paint- keep away from vinyl graphics, and don't a rag covered with laquer thinner sit on any panel for a long time). This will get rid of all the wax and car wash "clear coat protectant". Use a terry cloth or other soft, clean rag. Next, go to Advance Auto Parts, or anywhere else you can find a product called "Liquid Glass". It comes in a pint sized tin can. Kind of a gold/brown color. This is the best product I've found. It's been around for quite a few years.It's not a wax- its a polish. You apply the polish and wipe it off like a liquid wax. Once you're done with that, park the car out in the hot sun for a couple hours. Then, pull it back into the shade and let it cool off. You'll see a little haze and a few spots that look like you missed before. Thats normal- its just the excess that doesn't soak in. Let it cool off and wipe it down again with a microfiber towel.
Liquid glass is by far the best product I've seen for protecting and giving a great finish. One or maybe two coats is more than enough for a summer. And keep the car out of the cheap waxes at the automatic car wash!
5th Gear Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 3,321
From: Westville, IL
RE: Wax question?
ORIGINAL: brando5.0
The best wax is none at all.
The best wax is none at all.
The prep work is the key to the best possible finish. Ex: claying,swirl removal,polish, and glaze. The sealants and waxes add a little more in the looks department plus add protection. Sealants add a lot of gloss,brightness, and good reflection but lack the depth of a carnuaba wax. I like to apply a sealant and then top it with a wax to get the best of both worlds.
5th Gear Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 3,321
From: Westville, IL
RE: Wax question?
One more thing..... there is no need to apply a laquer thinner to take off previous layers of wax, tar etc.
First use a claybar to remove embedded contaminants from the paint. This will also leave your paint feeling silky smooth. Next use a polish to clean the paint, bring out more shine and reflection, plus prep the surface for your next steps. Now if you like a glaze can be applied. A glaze will add a real wet look plus add a lot of depth to the paint. Now you can top with a sealant or waxor even both. Happy detailing!
First use a claybar to remove embedded contaminants from the paint. This will also leave your paint feeling silky smooth. Next use a polish to clean the paint, bring out more shine and reflection, plus prep the surface for your next steps. Now if you like a glaze can be applied. A glaze will add a real wet look plus add a lot of depth to the paint. Now you can top with a sealant or waxor even both. Happy detailing!
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 163
From:
RE: Wax question?
brando5.0 you really should stop telling people to put thinner on their paint. And that comparison of carnauba wax to paraffin based candle was was rediculous. What kind of experience detailing cars besides ur own do you have?
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 152
From: MA
RE: Wax question?
ORIGINAL: brando5.0
The best wax is none at all.
Think of it like this- Every time you apply wax, you're building up the coat of wax. Have you ever tried dipping a match stick or other object in the melted wax from a candle? At first, its clear and shinny. The more you put on, the more hazy it looks. Sure, its shinny on the surface, but the true color underneath looks dulled. Additionally, the wax softens with heat, and will actually make dirt stick to the wax. Now, you have dirt stuck on the car, which will normally scratch the paint when you try to take it off.
My suggestion:
Start off with wax and grease remover, or, for a cheaper, and just as effective, and safe alternative, laquer thinner. (It will soften and remove wax, tar, and rubber, but not paint- keep away from vinyl graphics, and don't a rag covered with laquer thinner sit on any panel for a long time). This will get rid of all the wax and car wash "clear coat protectant". Use a terry cloth or other soft, clean rag. Next, go to Advance Auto Parts, or anywhere else you can find a product called "Liquid Glass". It comes in a pint sized tin can. Kind of a gold/brown color. This is the best product I've found. It's been around for quite a few years.It's not a wax- its a polish. You apply the polish and wipe it off like a liquid wax. Once you're done with that, park the car out in the hot sun for a couple hours. Then, pull it back into the shade and let it cool off. You'll see a little haze and a few spots that look like you missed before. Thats normal- its just the excess that doesn't soak in. Let it cool off and wipe it down again with a microfiber towel.
Liquid glass is by far the best product I've seen for protecting and giving a great finish. One or maybe two coats is more than enough for a summer. And keep the car out of the cheap waxes at the automatic car wash!
The best wax is none at all.
Think of it like this- Every time you apply wax, you're building up the coat of wax. Have you ever tried dipping a match stick or other object in the melted wax from a candle? At first, its clear and shinny. The more you put on, the more hazy it looks. Sure, its shinny on the surface, but the true color underneath looks dulled. Additionally, the wax softens with heat, and will actually make dirt stick to the wax. Now, you have dirt stuck on the car, which will normally scratch the paint when you try to take it off.
My suggestion:
Start off with wax and grease remover, or, for a cheaper, and just as effective, and safe alternative, laquer thinner. (It will soften and remove wax, tar, and rubber, but not paint- keep away from vinyl graphics, and don't a rag covered with laquer thinner sit on any panel for a long time). This will get rid of all the wax and car wash "clear coat protectant". Use a terry cloth or other soft, clean rag. Next, go to Advance Auto Parts, or anywhere else you can find a product called "Liquid Glass". It comes in a pint sized tin can. Kind of a gold/brown color. This is the best product I've found. It's been around for quite a few years.It's not a wax- its a polish. You apply the polish and wipe it off like a liquid wax. Once you're done with that, park the car out in the hot sun for a couple hours. Then, pull it back into the shade and let it cool off. You'll see a little haze and a few spots that look like you missed before. Thats normal- its just the excess that doesn't soak in. Let it cool off and wipe it down again with a microfiber towel.
Liquid glass is by far the best product I've seen for protecting and giving a great finish. One or maybe two coats is more than enough for a summer. And keep the car out of the cheap waxes at the automatic car wash!
