The more i drive my 1966 coupe the more i notice the glaring flaws in the paint. I have what looks like small rust bubbles on the fiberglass hood. It might be the result of poor prep. I have a few minor rust bubbles. But, the big issue i want to fix is a 10 inch by 3 inch cracking and flaking piece right where the post meets the body at the passengers side rear quarter. I was told it's the result of not having sub frame connectors or engine bay braces after the 5.0 swap (traction bars and positrack played a role as well i'm told...alll grip and flex).

Soooooooooo what do i do? I'm thinking about going through this

Paint Guide

With this primer
Dupli-color

and this paint
Ivy Green Metalic

and this clear coat
high gloss


Is this the best (and most cost effective way to fix this? I'm kind of new at this though i helped my dad fully paint cars all the time growing up. Any help or pictures of your project would help! Thank you.

 

I don't believe the part about not having subframe connectors or braces. I had a 5.0 in my 67 and never had a problem, if that stuff was the case I don't believe Ford would have put a V8 in the classics.


When you say post do you mean the area right behind the quarter windows? If so I guess it could be possible that someone replaced the quarter panel, but did a terrible job.

 

I bought the car from my neighbor and he said he got the car already painted with a 289 and automatic. Engine died and he put in a 5.0 and a T-5. Then on went new tires, traction bars, sway bars etc... Then his son drove it like he stole it. He said it was a combination of poor paint prep and the added stress of driving that 5.0 hard that chipped the paint off right above the rear quarter panel. I just noticed that same stress crack on the paint on the other side as well. I dunno?

 

Your neighbor could be right, it sounds like the kid abused the car.

Bad paint prep could also be cause, especially if bondo was used in that area.



Are you planning on painting just the bad areas of the entire car? If you do just certain areas the paint won't match due to fading, but if you paint the entire car you are looking at more money and time.

 

I'm thinking of just doing a patch job of the problem areas now...and when i move back to the east coast i'll do a full paint job with my dad.

 

I think the stuff is worth a try. As for the primer if you aren't going to take it down to the metal I would recommend a 2k high build primer instead of the self etching primer.

 

okay! What's the difference? What does self etching mean anyway? I saw this stuff used in Popular Hot Rodding.

 

Self etching is used to help the 2k primer stick to the metal. Without the self etching primer the 2k primer doesn't adheer as well and can cause it to peel away easily. Or at least that is my understanding of the two.

 

okay thank you! i'll get both.

 

So I'm going to bump this for extra advice. IS dupont the best brand for aerosol primers?