Custom Interiors
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 22
RE: Custom Interiors
and this is what it looks like when you take your time prime prep and smooth everything and use a basecoat clearcoat system for paint... and buy new steering wheel seats and other misc parts
[IMG]local://upfiles/58575/0FE7CBF4CDB44F53BAE60D92316B4F33.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/58575/51DA58D8310840F9B86E78D5A5FA7605.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/58575/0FE7CBF4CDB44F53BAE60D92316B4F33.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/58575/51DA58D8310840F9B86E78D5A5FA7605.jpg[/IMG]
4th Gear Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,695
From: Springfield, TN
RE: Custom Interiors
ORIGINAL: Asbury030
Hey guys wellI have a 91 mustang and I want all my panels to beblack what do you suggest?
Hey guys wellI have a 91 mustang and I want all my panels to beblack what do you suggest?
How do I get my plastic smooth? I am painting the defrost vent on my 92. I have about 3 coats on but don't really like the rough look. What do I need to do? There should be a sticky on how to smooth out factory rough pieces.
1st Gear Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 95
From:
RE: Custom Interiors
i did mine black on black. it looks good, but my only problem is that the door panel must be rubbing on the dash next to the fuse panel on the side closest to the seats. this is happening on both sides at the same spot,and rubbing the paint off. i dunno what to do about it. I even checked to make sure the door panels were on properly. any ideas?
5th Gear Member
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,110
From: Mid-Mich
RE: Custom Interiors
here, I threw this together, tells a little more...
You’ll need:
- Sand Paper (fine grit)
- Lacquer Thinner (not paint thinner) and (should be liquid, not gel)
- Spray paint (Rattle-can)
- Clear Coat (NOT recommended for interior pieces)
- Clean towels
- Paint Area
Tips:
- Make sure its not too cold or too hot, 60* - 100*[/b] dry[/b] and no wind[/b] is ideal, and good ventilation[/b]
- Setup your paint area and stay out of the elements, such as wind or light rain. Do not paint in high humidity; the paint will not stick when it’s humid)
- I also recommend picking a factory color for trim pieces, so they’re easy to look up later on. Since my car is black/black, I choose Silver Charcoal from the 2003 year for my pieces. You can get paint from almost any car part store, my shop is Car Quest)
- Be sure keep the spray nozzle clear of paint build up. Hold the spray can about 5-8 inches away from the piece that you’re painting. Spray side to side and start before the piece and end after the piece.
- Hair dryer on low heat or a sunny day helps aid in the drying process.
Steps:
1. Wash[/b] it (soap and water)
2. Dry[/b] it (clean towel)
3. Tape[/b] off areas not to be painted (blue painters tape works well)
4. Sand[/b] it (all over and just enough to scuff it, you don’t need to go to the raw material)
5. Lacquer[/b] thin it (wipe it down with a towel dampened with lacquer thinner)
6. Dry[/b] (final wipe before we start)
7. Prime[/b] it (this is not always necessary, it helps as a base coat and fill in minor scratches)
8. Coat 1[/b] of paint (not a whole lot, just to cover most the item, still should be able to see the base still)
9. Dry[/b] (10-15mins)
10. Coat 2[/b] of paint (enough to cover the item and even out spots missed)
11. Dry[/b] (10-15mins)
12. Coat 3[/b] of paint (giving it a good final coat)
13. Dry[/b] (10-15mins)
14. Clear[/b] Coat (This is also not necessary, I prefer not to clear the inside parts, it might add unwanted glare. But if you are, repeat steps 12 and 13 as many times as you’d like using the clear)
The hardest part is if you taped off an area, you need to peel the tape before the paint dries to much, if you wait too long you can risk peeling paint off the part.
Let it all sit in sun for the day or by a heater for about 24hrs before handling. After letting it dry, take it back into your car and snap it back into place, be careful not to press too hard on the painted areas.
Disaster Recovery:
if your paint either reacts with the plastic or the paint runs (and in some cases it starts to rain on your project)...don’t panic![/b]
Stop[/b] painting,
Let it dry[/b],
Sand[/b] the effected area,
(you may also want to lightly wipe with lacquer[/b] thinner on the area)
Then repaint[/b] and blend[/b] in with the rest of the piece.
Do Not:[/i][/b]
- touch it[/b] with your finger(s) at any time (if you want to know if its dry or not, assume its not)
- load it [/b]up with paint causing it to run (there can always be more coats, get it next time)
- move[/b] it (ONLY if you really have to, otherwise leave it be)
You’ll need:
- Sand Paper (fine grit)
- Lacquer Thinner (not paint thinner) and (should be liquid, not gel)
- Spray paint (Rattle-can)
- Clear Coat (NOT recommended for interior pieces)
- Clean towels
- Paint Area
Tips:
- Make sure its not too cold or too hot, 60* - 100*[/b] dry[/b] and no wind[/b] is ideal, and good ventilation[/b]
- Setup your paint area and stay out of the elements, such as wind or light rain. Do not paint in high humidity; the paint will not stick when it’s humid)
- I also recommend picking a factory color for trim pieces, so they’re easy to look up later on. Since my car is black/black, I choose Silver Charcoal from the 2003 year for my pieces. You can get paint from almost any car part store, my shop is Car Quest)
- Be sure keep the spray nozzle clear of paint build up. Hold the spray can about 5-8 inches away from the piece that you’re painting. Spray side to side and start before the piece and end after the piece.
- Hair dryer on low heat or a sunny day helps aid in the drying process.
Steps:
1. Wash[/b] it (soap and water)
2. Dry[/b] it (clean towel)
3. Tape[/b] off areas not to be painted (blue painters tape works well)
4. Sand[/b] it (all over and just enough to scuff it, you don’t need to go to the raw material)
5. Lacquer[/b] thin it (wipe it down with a towel dampened with lacquer thinner)
6. Dry[/b] (final wipe before we start)
7. Prime[/b] it (this is not always necessary, it helps as a base coat and fill in minor scratches)
8. Coat 1[/b] of paint (not a whole lot, just to cover most the item, still should be able to see the base still)
9. Dry[/b] (10-15mins)
10. Coat 2[/b] of paint (enough to cover the item and even out spots missed)
11. Dry[/b] (10-15mins)
12. Coat 3[/b] of paint (giving it a good final coat)
13. Dry[/b] (10-15mins)
14. Clear[/b] Coat (This is also not necessary, I prefer not to clear the inside parts, it might add unwanted glare. But if you are, repeat steps 12 and 13 as many times as you’d like using the clear)
The hardest part is if you taped off an area, you need to peel the tape before the paint dries to much, if you wait too long you can risk peeling paint off the part.
Let it all sit in sun for the day or by a heater for about 24hrs before handling. After letting it dry, take it back into your car and snap it back into place, be careful not to press too hard on the painted areas.
Disaster Recovery:
if your paint either reacts with the plastic or the paint runs (and in some cases it starts to rain on your project)...don’t panic![/b]
Stop[/b] painting,
Let it dry[/b],
Sand[/b] the effected area,
(you may also want to lightly wipe with lacquer[/b] thinner on the area)
Then repaint[/b] and blend[/b] in with the rest of the piece.
Do Not:[/i][/b]
- touch it[/b] with your finger(s) at any time (if you want to know if its dry or not, assume its not)
- load it [/b]up with paint causing it to run (there can always be more coats, get it next time)
- move[/b] it (ONLY if you really have to, otherwise leave it be)
