I getting ready to inspect my brakes on a 67 289 coupe with drums. The only problem I have is once in a while I have to pump them 2-3 times when they are spongy, but not every time. So my plan is to start with the front and check the shoes and drums. Put on new shoes and or turn the drums if neccesary. All 4 wheel cylinders were replaced right before I stopped driving the car a few years ago. Next check the rear shoes & drums. Then bleed the system. I've heard of bench bleeding the MC but have not done it before.

These are my questions.

#1 how do evaluate the master cylinder. What do I look for to see if it needs to be replaced. WHen I checked the fluid today after a few months of driving the car and the rear compartment was down by about 1/2 to 3/4 inch.

#2. Does the front and rear compartment of the MC corespond to the front and rear brakes or do the fluids comingle.

#3 Finally is there anything else that I need to inspect reguarding the brakes. I'll probably take a look at the lines, I think at one time I replaced some of the spings and hardware that hold the shoes on.

BTW. for those of you that are thinking about it I'm not ready to do the disc conversion yet.

Thanks in advance for any replys.

 

#1 MC
#2 yes
#3 Go cook a good dinner meal for your wife.

 

check for some leaks near the rear first, with a dual master cylinder, it is basically 2 systems. Brake hardware is cheap, so buy all new, and I would just buy new wheel cylinders since the rebuild kits will not be as effective.

 

My suggestion is to take the car to a licenced brake facility, and have it completely inspected and repaired based on their recomendation.
1). Look at the fluid for any signs of grey/black grit. If found replace every rubber component in the hydraulic side of the brake system and flush out all the steel lines. Look inside the passenger compartment where the master cylinder attaches to the firewall. If you see signs of fluid leakage, replace the master cylinder. Apply firm pressure to the brake pedal. In a leak free system, if the pedal starts to drop, the master cylinder pistons are worn out and the master cylinder should be replaced. Your system leaks, and that leak needs to be addressed first.

2). The reservior closest to the firewall is for the front brakes.

3). Yes, there is a lot to proper brake inspection, which is why I suggest you defer this repair to certified licensed professionals. Brakes are the one area where (IMO) only a fool would attempt a repair without solid experience, training and certification.

 

guess I am a fool...my advice about brakes is to tripple check your work and if it is your first time, get a freind that has done it many times. The worst thing about drum brakes is the specialized tools that you need

 

The best way to work on drum brakes is to put wheels and drum from both sides but only work on the brakes one side at a time that way if you forget how something goes on all you have to do is walk around to the other side and look. As for special tools there really isn't that many you actually need and don't cost that much. I only have 2 the spring tool and the adjuster spoon.