Dueling Mechanics- who is right?
#1
Dueling Mechanics- who is right?
Lord I hope someone here can help...
I have a 2000 GT with a rebuilt 4.6 with a vortech blower.
A new mechanic was just looking at it and was upset by my sparkplugs. Said I had .020 gap copper plugs, and that I should have .056 gap platinums. I called Vortech and they said .035 copper. Anyone have ANY idea which is the right one?
This is killing me
Thanks!
I have a 2000 GT with a rebuilt 4.6 with a vortech blower.
A new mechanic was just looking at it and was upset by my sparkplugs. Said I had .020 gap copper plugs, and that I should have .056 gap platinums. I called Vortech and they said .035 copper. Anyone have ANY idea which is the right one?
This is killing me
Thanks!
#2
RE: Dueling Mechanics- who is right?
for a power adder application- s/c and especially nitrous you want to avoid detonation at all costs- one great way to do this is by using a colder (heat range) plug. Platinum is a bad idea IMO- I would use NGK TR6s. They work great and are 1.99 a piece. Also set gap between .030 and .035. Hope that helps!
#3
RE: Dueling Mechanics- who is right?
Mechanic is looking at factory spec, not the modded spec.
Frequent thing that mechanics overlook is a Modified car. I.E. factory spec on the car tires is 32PSi, however that is on a tire that is rated at 35PSI max or stock. I have low profile BFG KDW tires that are rated at 44PSI Max so I run them between 35-38 PSI. Tech tried to tell me I should run at 32PSI as stated in the owners manual. I told him that's great for a STOCK tire and asked if he would replace a $155 if it blew on account of his error. That ended the convo.
Frequent thing that mechanics overlook is a Modified car. I.E. factory spec on the car tires is 32PSi, however that is on a tire that is rated at 35PSI max or stock. I have low profile BFG KDW tires that are rated at 44PSI Max so I run them between 35-38 PSI. Tech tried to tell me I should run at 32PSI as stated in the owners manual. I told him that's great for a STOCK tire and asked if he would replace a $155 if it blew on account of his error. That ended the convo.
#4
RE: Dueling Mechanics- who is right?
ORIGINAL: Machwon
for a power adder application- s/c and especially nitrous you want to avoid detonation at all costs- one great way to do this is by using a colder (heat range) plug. Platinum is a bad idea IMO- I would use NGK TR6s. They work great and are 1.99 a piece. Also set gap between .030 and .035. Hope that helps!
for a power adder application- s/c and especially nitrous you want to avoid detonation at all costs- one great way to do this is by using a colder (heat range) plug. Platinum is a bad idea IMO- I would use NGK TR6s. They work great and are 1.99 a piece. Also set gap between .030 and .035. Hope that helps!
#6
RE: Dueling Mechanics- who is right?
it really depends on how much boost and power you're making... this should be a sticky and the info was borrowed
Spark Plug FAQ
Stock Heads also (Dart Windsor Jr & Sr)
Naturally Aspirated (non-projected tip)
NGK
Specifications:
Thread Size= 14mm
Hex Size= .625
Reach= .46
Seat Type= Tapered
Electrode= V-Power
NGK R5673-6 Stock Number 2405 (1 heat range hotter)
NGK R5673-7 Stock Number 2817 (Factory heat range)
Naturally Aspirated (non-projected tip)
Specifications:
Thread Size= 14mm
Hex Size= .625
Reach= .46
Seat Type= Tapered
Electrode= V-Power
NGK R5673-6 Stock Number 2405 (1 heat range hotter)
NGK R5673-7 Stock Number 2817 (Factory heat range)
Autolite Stock Heads
Autolite 25 Naturally Aspirated
Autolite 24 1 Heat Range Colder
Autolite 23 2 Heat Ranges Colder
Autolite Race Series for Stock Heads
Autolite AR135 Naturally Aspirated Only
Autolite AR134 1 Heat Range Colder
Autolite AR133 2 Heat Ranges Colder
NGK Forced Induction
NGK-Non Projected Electrode
Specifications:
Thread Size= 14mm
Hex Size= .625
Reach= .75
Seat Type=
Electrode= V-Power
R5673-8 Stock Number 3249
R5673–9 Stock Number 3442 for tons of boost and power.
Aftermarket aluminum heads (TFS, Edelbrock, AFR, Canfield, Brodix)
NGK Forced Induction
R5671-A8 Stock Number 4554, 1 heat range Colder (up to about 600rwhp)
R5671–A9 Stock Number 5238, for 18+psi, 2 heat ranges colder 650+ rwhp
R5671–A10 Stock Number 5820, for race cars.
Autolite Forced Induction and N/A
Autolite 3924's Naturally Aspirated Only
Autolite 3923’s 1 Heat Range Colder, good for approx 550rwhp
Autolite 3922’s 2 Heat Ranges Colder, good for approx 650rwhp
Autolie Race Series for aftermarket heads
Autolite AR3935 Naturally Aspirated Only
Autolite AR3934 1 Heat Range Colder
Autolite AR3933 2 Heat Ranges Colder
Plug Specs for GT-40 Iron, GT-40 Aluminum, GT-40X, & GT-40P Heads
Thread Size- 14mm
Hex Size- .625
Reach- .708
Seat type- Tapered
Electrode- Standard Nickel
Projected Tip
The stock equivalent replacement part numbers according to the Motorsport Catalog are:
Ford MotorSport Part Number AGSF-32C for the GT-40 Aluminum, and GT-40X
Ford MotorSport Part Number AWSF-32C for the GT-40P, and GT-40 Iron
These plugs cross to:
NGK - BPR6EFS Stock Number- 3623 (Stock Heat Range)
Autolite- 104
These are the NGK Race Series Part numbers and specs:
Thread Size- 14mm
Hex Size- .625
Reach- .708
Seat type- Tapered
Electrode- V-Power
Non-Projected Tip
NGK- R5724-8 Stock Number- 7317 (1 Heat Range Colder)
NGK- R5724-9 Stock Number- 7891 (2 Heat Ranges Colder)
NGK- R5724-10 Stock Number- 7993 (3 Heat Ranges Colder)
Spark Plug FAQ
Stock Heads also (Dart Windsor Jr & Sr)
Naturally Aspirated (non-projected tip)
NGK
Specifications:
Thread Size= 14mm
Hex Size= .625
Reach= .46
Seat Type= Tapered
Electrode= V-Power
NGK R5673-6 Stock Number 2405 (1 heat range hotter)
NGK R5673-7 Stock Number 2817 (Factory heat range)
Naturally Aspirated (non-projected tip)
Specifications:
Thread Size= 14mm
Hex Size= .625
Reach= .46
Seat Type= Tapered
Electrode= V-Power
NGK R5673-6 Stock Number 2405 (1 heat range hotter)
NGK R5673-7 Stock Number 2817 (Factory heat range)
Autolite Stock Heads
Autolite 25 Naturally Aspirated
Autolite 24 1 Heat Range Colder
Autolite 23 2 Heat Ranges Colder
Autolite Race Series for Stock Heads
Autolite AR135 Naturally Aspirated Only
Autolite AR134 1 Heat Range Colder
Autolite AR133 2 Heat Ranges Colder
NGK Forced Induction
NGK-Non Projected Electrode
Specifications:
Thread Size= 14mm
Hex Size= .625
Reach= .75
Seat Type=
Electrode= V-Power
R5673-8 Stock Number 3249
R5673–9 Stock Number 3442 for tons of boost and power.
Aftermarket aluminum heads (TFS, Edelbrock, AFR, Canfield, Brodix)
NGK Forced Induction
R5671-A8 Stock Number 4554, 1 heat range Colder (up to about 600rwhp)
R5671–A9 Stock Number 5238, for 18+psi, 2 heat ranges colder 650+ rwhp
R5671–A10 Stock Number 5820, for race cars.
Autolite Forced Induction and N/A
Autolite 3924's Naturally Aspirated Only
Autolite 3923’s 1 Heat Range Colder, good for approx 550rwhp
Autolite 3922’s 2 Heat Ranges Colder, good for approx 650rwhp
Autolie Race Series for aftermarket heads
Autolite AR3935 Naturally Aspirated Only
Autolite AR3934 1 Heat Range Colder
Autolite AR3933 2 Heat Ranges Colder
Plug Specs for GT-40 Iron, GT-40 Aluminum, GT-40X, & GT-40P Heads
Thread Size- 14mm
Hex Size- .625
Reach- .708
Seat type- Tapered
Electrode- Standard Nickel
Projected Tip
The stock equivalent replacement part numbers according to the Motorsport Catalog are:
Ford MotorSport Part Number AGSF-32C for the GT-40 Aluminum, and GT-40X
Ford MotorSport Part Number AWSF-32C for the GT-40P, and GT-40 Iron
These plugs cross to:
NGK - BPR6EFS Stock Number- 3623 (Stock Heat Range)
Autolite- 104
These are the NGK Race Series Part numbers and specs:
Thread Size- 14mm
Hex Size- .625
Reach- .708
Seat type- Tapered
Electrode- V-Power
Non-Projected Tip
NGK- R5724-8 Stock Number- 7317 (1 Heat Range Colder)
NGK- R5724-9 Stock Number- 7891 (2 Heat Ranges Colder)
NGK- R5724-10 Stock Number- 7993 (3 Heat Ranges Colder)
#8
RE: Dueling Mechanics- who is right?
Yes I agree, a couple steps colder on the heat range plus a copper style plug and a .030 gap. Moat platinum plugs have a fine or small tang on the electrode. In a power adder car, these can run hot and create preignition and cause engine damage. You also tighten the gap up to help prevent the boost from nullifying the spark which happens on a wider gap.
#9
RE: Dueling Mechanics- who is right?
Wooo that post was a mouthfull; I have to admit, I didnt quite get it!
Is there an exact sparkplug I should be looking at? Its a 4.6 with vortech s trim, making like 11 or so psi, aftermarket heads... well heck, the info is in my signature I guess Any ideas?
Thanks!
Is there an exact sparkplug I should be looking at? Its a 4.6 with vortech s trim, making like 11 or so psi, aftermarket heads... well heck, the info is in my signature I guess Any ideas?
Thanks!
#10
RE: Dueling Mechanics- who is right?
ORIGINAL: wildcobrar
Yes I agree, a couple steps colder on the heat range plus a copper style plug and a .030 gap. Moat platinum plugs have a fine or small tang on the electrode. In a power adder car, these can run hot and create preignition and cause engine damage. You also tighten the gap up to help prevent the boost from nullifying the spark which happens on a wider gap.
Yes I agree, a couple steps colder on the heat range plus a copper style plug and a .030 gap. Moat platinum plugs have a fine or small tang on the electrode. In a power adder car, these can run hot and create preignition and cause engine damage. You also tighten the gap up to help prevent the boost from nullifying the spark which happens on a wider gap.
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