NeoTokyo

I think the average drag on a supercharger is 15%, I am not 100% but thats a large amount of power being lost going into higher power levels. It is also very difficult to cool the intake charge on a roots style SC and isnt as efficient as the larger intercoolers for Turbo apps. The blades arent as efficient in a roots style as a turbo or snail either.

Another thing you have to think about is legalities of Turbo's VS SC's. Smog laws in a lot of states prohibit Turbo's because of the cold start emmisions problems. SC's Roots and Snail dont have that problem with failing the cold start. California is an example of TC'ing not legal because of the cold start, course the Smog and inspection shop I went to didnt give a crap

Now with a turbo setup you can do all sorts of stuff for instant power. A good setup is a Twin Turbo setup with a low rpm TC like a T3 that will spool at 1300-1500rpms and produce good "Almost" Instant power, then for a secondary have it pop in at 3500-4000rpms for top powerband. I havnt seen that setup very often though on Mustangs, I have seen identical Turbo TT setups that work awesome. Slugbitch had a great TT mach1 setup that kicked ***, it was a Azure blue one but I cant find it anymore. I have a vid of it whomping an 04' Cobra with Pulley, Chip, exhaust It mad like 25 less horsepower too.



So for the money go with a TT setup, you will love it, nothing like opening that hood and seeing a custom intake being fed by twin TC's. You will also save gas if you drive like a normal person too :P

If you are pressed for the extra couple grand then go with the SC for a start and save up then sell your SC and get the TT setup on there. Hell you never know, It might be what you want for your driving style.

If you do a SC I suggest KB or Whipple, those two companies kick ***. KB 2.4 Blowzilla on an 03 Cobra with help from Diablo went over 1000hp on a stock bottom end, the 03/04 Cobra bottem end was an impressive peice though. All they did was swap SC's, injectors, TB's and tune it, I am not sure if they changed the exhaust.

Now the 2.4L blowzilla (Bigger than most 4banger imports ) doesnt make much more power than the 2.2L Blowzilla, it just goes higher in the boost range and is for going into a crazy boost range up to 27psi. The 2.2L goes 9-24psi. 900hp is available from the 2.2L and 960 from the 2.4L.

Oh, deciding the right Turbo for your car is somthing that should be done by a profession, they are a little more difficult to understand than a supercharger, but well worth the effort.


-Eric-

waxyourboard

A turbo creates less heat when it compresses air also. (Yes, i know it's attached to the exhaust, but it doesn't create as much heat during the compression) Less heat means for the same psi, you'll make more power.

Check out this article comparing roots, twin screw, centrifugal, and TT

http://www.kennebell.net/media/artic...TBASHpart2.pdf

xxkazp3rxx

I wouldn't be worried about to much turbo lag... Stangs have enough torque, and with the right gearing and setup you can get into that powerband A LOT quicker then the 4cyl that are turbocharged... I'd go turbo if i had the money from what i understand it's not just 1k more to turbo charge a car the right way.. it's more like 3-4k more, please someone tell me if im wrong, lol - but that's what i thought... not to many s/c mustangs are supra killers... but put a turbo on a V8 Stang... and you have yourself a supra killer.. and just about an everything killer

hwest

xxkazp3rxx well it all depends on what you consider the "correct way". Typically for any turbo application the mods that will need to be done is upgrading the fuel system i.e. injectors, fuel rail, pump, and filter. Most bottom ends on stock V8 stangs can handle a turbo application as long as your not running abnormal amounts of boost. You are absolutely correct about turbo lag, It doesn't take very much time at all to spool a turbo with the exhaust from a V8 vs. a 4 cyl.

xxkazp3rxx

I consider the correct way.. the safe way. I plan on F/I my car, but only after I forge my engine. I would hate to spend so much money on SC/Turbo and have my engine clanging away 2 days later.. haha - better safe then sorry.. I've seen stangs with 350rwhp snap a rear axle... and seen stangs with 600rwhp and d/r and be fine... lol same with PSI.. seen 6 psi break stuff and seen 12 be absolutly fine... So, i think that forged the internals while expensive is the correct way, plus of course the other things like the fuel upgrades, and what not... ehh this isn't for another year or so, so i'll cross this bridge when I come to it

ShadowDrake

The price isn't ENTIRELY true... maybe for a twin turbo setup, yes... but if you're going single turbo, a kit can be had for ~$5500

http://www.proturbokits.com/store/sc...?idproduct=123

Compare that to an intercooled 1.7L KB ($4800), or intercooled Vortech ($4300? Somewhere around there)... about $1000 more is accurate... After seeing that turbo kit, I was sold

xxkazp3rxx

how about install too? lol

hwest

I couldn't agree more!! Putting a turbo setup or s/c setup on a car can be expensive if done "correctly". I personally think your internals should be done FIRST and FOREMOST prior to applying any sort of boost to your car. Yeah I would go with a forged cam, titanium pistons and rods that way when you get your s/c or turbo you can really turn up the boost and not worry so much about internals breaking down under higher rpm's.

JD1969

Yea good luck finding titanium pistons and rods, not even Top Fuel engines use them, mainly because they are not made (rods maybe but not pistons). When building a bottom end for boost you use forged pistons and rods, and a forged crank. However at low boost levels (say 9 psi and less) a stock bottom end is fine if the tune is safe. 9 psi should give you a safe 100-125 hp increase.

QUIKSVT

Dude, the whole titanium rod and piston thing is true, ask hwest!... he saw it on a website I'm sure, so it has to be true!... Hes the same guy that thinks a stock 5L long block is good for 15,000 rpm! HAHAHAHA...