How often can/should one run 110 octane? I put 10 gallons in today and the Horse seems to like it. Maybe that's the placebo effect, too, who knows? I'd like to know what everyone else does with it. Pros, cons, etc. One obvious con is cost, that I know.

Before you flame me for ricer mentality thinking "110 will make my car have more FWHP since 110 is better than 87" let me give you my mod list, copied from another thread. It makes some sense for 110 to be run here:

306 B&P'd
11.2:1 compression (millwork on the heads, decked the block, plus valve relief work)
extremely worked over Edelbrock heads (milled decks, milled spring seats, radiused valve bowls, P&P'd to a near mirror finish on both sides of the combustion chamber, port matched on both sides, you name it: chamfered where they need to be chamfered, deburred where they needed it, no hot spots - everything. untold hours of prep on each side. valve train is bullet proof and top of the line) Now, for all of you bench jockeys and e-racers who have never built anything in your life but own a fast car and think you're a gear head? Pay attention and listen up to ol' ground...this is where the real power is; the secret, unleashable power - in the heads. The cylinder heads make the engine. You can't breathe? You don't make power. If you have lungs, it makes AAAAALLLL the difference. I wouldn't take $2,000 for these heads the way they've been worked over.
E303 cam
1.76 rollers
oversized titanium valves with 5-angle valve job
port matched upper and lower SVT Intake w/port matched 1" spacer
190 lph fuel pump
stock MAF (for now - 80MM on the shelf rarin' to go)
70mm BBK TB
adjustable fuel regulator
19# injectors (for now - 24's ready for the MAF/injectors/dyno tune three step)
FRPP hi-flow shorties
O/R H-pipe
Flowmaster 40's w/dumps
King Cobra clutch
T-5
Moser 3.73's

 

NICE ENGINE dude! [8D]

And yeah with 11:2-1 compression you're gonna need to be running pretty hefty octane for sure. And depending on how much timing advance you're running, yea you'd do OK with 110 octane. I'm wondering what the LEAST octane gas you can use & she's still happy? lol

 

whats that cost per gallon?

 

Thanks, mang!! He's got peeelenty of snort, that's for sure. I cannot wait to install the 80/24 setup and take it over to Illinois Dyno Center and have it chipped and dyno'd!
He runs well enough on 91 octane. The headwork performed affords me fuel options since I really don't suffer a lot of detonation. Timing's not wild or anything, but the heads make it WORK!! [8D][8D] They're Performers, but they flow better than Victors.


$3.85 per [:@] [:@] [:@]
I hate to unass that kind of corn when 91 around here is now $2.35, 93 (when I can find it) is about $2.45, but the Horse appreciates it I'm sure and it sure smells good coming out of the flows!
Pulled next to a kid in a fart-cannoned Civic yesterday after fill up all windows down and he said, "What's that smell?" I said, "Race gas." His face went expressionless and said "Nice" and just turned and looked ahead, the Horse just sitting there pawing at the ground, bucking and lurching on idle, snortin' at the air. It would have been ugly and he knew it. I just rolled off like a good little boy..................

 

not too sure what you're asking...but you seem to know what octane is/does so if your stang runs fine/good on 91/93 you know what i'm going to tell you might as well bump your timing if you're going to continue using it. otherwise the only down side is leaded gas will destroy your o2 sensors sooner or later. sounds like a nice stang. btw i have as much money in headwork than the original price of the heads. headwork is certainly something to be left to the pros with a flow bench as more often than not "backyard" porting etc acutally decreases the flow characteristics

 

Put a 5 gal. fuel cell in the trunk for 110 only, run a new fuel line up to the front with it, put a new fuel pump in the back with a switch, up front, put a valve so you can pick which fuel you want, switch it over to 110 for the track, go to the back, flip on the fuel pump, add some spray, and DOMINATE

Or you can just add a valve for the pickup for your current pump, but then you'll need to run all the old fuel out of your lines before you start getting the 110 instead of whatever you left in the tank.

Er, but then again, I'm thinking of a returnless fuel system, not sure what you've got on your stang

 

I was asking if others used 110 and what their experiences were.
When I get my computer tuned and engine dyno'd, I plan on asking for a 110 tune that has a few degrees of timing in it, among other things

I know what you mean about money in the heads. SO much can be done there! When you start with good metal (Edelbrock, RHS, AFS, etc.) and you work it over a little (or a lot!) the results are breathtaking.


Shadow, that sounds like too much work!!
I guess in the long run it wouldn't be as much work as standing there filling a gas can then pouring it into my tank. They said it's illegal to put it directly into my car because it's not for highway use. I guess I get that, but I felt a little silly...

 

$3.85/gal doesnt seem that bad to me at all for 110 octane, i just paid $2.79/gal for 87...

 

I have run as high as 11.7:1 on 93. Of course this was with a cam that had alot of overlap. Another thing is that aluminium heads will allow you to run more compression. I guess my point is that there is no need to run 110 unless the engine is detonating, or you are spraying. There are companys that make 100 and even 105 non-leaded race gas, I belive Rocket Brand Race Fuel is one and I think VP is another.

 

Most people don't run straight 110 either. I have a 100 tune for my 05 from Evolution Performance, so I use it to mix. I would think straight 110 is pretty rough on newer cars, especially the O2 sensors.