Which oil lasts longest?
ORIGINAL: jayel579
3 months or 3000 miles, thats what I go by. I don't care what oil companies say about synthetics lasting longer even if they do last for more then 10,000 miles. You don't change your oil because it breaks down, you change your oil to get the "dirt" out of the motor.
3 months or 3000 miles, thats what I go by. I don't care what oil companies say about synthetics lasting longer even if they do last for more then 10,000 miles. You don't change your oil because it breaks down, you change your oil to get the "dirt" out of the motor.
ORIGINAL: Colorado_Mustang
A lot of that "dirt"(aka sludge) is from the oil itself. The variations in the molecular size of regular oil allows different parts of the oil to burn off or gel before the majority of the oil. This will deposit itself in the engine (sludge) and thicken the oil overall. Synthetics have uniform molecular size, which is why it won't boil off or gel as quickly. It also resists sludge for the same reason. After 12k miles, the oil in my engines is still clear.
Now, if you switch over to synthetic with a higher mileage engine, the oil will darken quickly. This is because the oil will be picking up the sludge left behind by the regular oil and keeping it suspended either until the filter removes it or the oil is changed.
A lot of that "dirt"(aka sludge) is from the oil itself. The variations in the molecular size of regular oil allows different parts of the oil to burn off or gel before the majority of the oil. This will deposit itself in the engine (sludge) and thicken the oil overall. Synthetics have uniform molecular size, which is why it won't boil off or gel as quickly. It also resists sludge for the same reason. After 12k miles, the oil in my engines is still clear.
Now, if you switch over to synthetic with a higher mileage engine, the oil will darken quickly. This is because the oil will be picking up the sludge left behind by the regular oil and keeping it suspended either until the filter removes it or the oil is changed.

Oil vs Oil threads are never ending. Here is a scientific way of choosing a lubricant:
Use an oil for a given mileage/time, then have it tested. A test only runs about $20-$25. This way you can get hard data on exactly when your oil is breaking down. It can also tell you if your air cleaner is letting in unfiltered air, if your bearings are galling, if your head gasket is leaking, if your fueling is goodand also warning about a catastrophic failure before it happens.
Use an oil for a given mileage/time, then have it tested. A test only runs about $20-$25. This way you can get hard data on exactly when your oil is breaking down. It can also tell you if your air cleaner is letting in unfiltered air, if your bearings are galling, if your head gasket is leaking, if your fueling is goodand also warning about a catastrophic failure before it happens.
Wow, you sure are a dense one aren't you? I'm the one that checks my oil. And I see the clear oil after 12k miles. It's still fairly clear after 20k miles. What's so hard to understand about that? If you're getting dirt from your air intake into your engine oil, you have other problems.
And the test results come back and show minimal amounts of metals in the oil. Could it be that I use good oil that actually does the job it's supposed to? Must be.
And the test results come back and show minimal amounts of metals in the oil. Could it be that I use good oil that actually does the job it's supposed to? Must be.
ORIGINAL: jayel579
"Dirt" is anything from impurities in gas, internal engine break down, even dirt in the ait that gets past your air filter. If the oil in your engines is still clear after 12,000 miles god bless you, I got a bridge to sell you too.
ORIGINAL: Colorado_Mustang
A lot of that "dirt"(aka sludge) is from the oil itself. The variations in the molecular size of regular oil allows different parts of the oil to burn off or gel before the majority of the oil. This will deposit itself in the engine (sludge) and thicken the oil overall. Synthetics have uniform molecular size, which is why it won't boil off or gel as quickly. It also resists sludge for the same reason. After 12k miles, the oil in my engines is still clear.
Now, if you switch over to synthetic with a higher mileage engine, the oil will darken quickly. This is because the oil will be picking up the sludge left behind by the regular oil and keeping it suspended either until the filter removes it or the oil is changed.
A lot of that "dirt"(aka sludge) is from the oil itself. The variations in the molecular size of regular oil allows different parts of the oil to burn off or gel before the majority of the oil. This will deposit itself in the engine (sludge) and thicken the oil overall. Synthetics have uniform molecular size, which is why it won't boil off or gel as quickly. It also resists sludge for the same reason. After 12k miles, the oil in my engines is still clear.
Now, if you switch over to synthetic with a higher mileage engine, the oil will darken quickly. This is because the oil will be picking up the sludge left behind by the regular oil and keeping it suspended either until the filter removes it or the oil is changed.

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