Good...let us know how much power was lost.

 

All I see if you spouting words, you havnt actually laid down evidence to support your theory, I dont care what school you went to, what class you spent time with. I care about seeing the results.

I have the formula up top, if you really want to give me something to chew on then fill it out to the best of your knowledge and give us the answer of consumption.


Oh ya.... Your mean! lol

 

I am not as car savy as the rest of you but if I'm hearing correctly someone wants to remove the a/c unit and water pump units from the pully system and use electricity to drive them? I think I also read something about an exttra alt. I would first think that adding wieght would hurt(although i assume electric ac and water pumps would be lighter?) and that your still going to use the engine to turn a 2nd alt(unless i misread) so your only saving from using one pulley(I didnt see, might have missed, the hp drain of the alts) It does seem like a feesable solution, but why not just get an underdrive kit? I wouldnt think the gains would be that much different. Unless your talking about the ability to turn it off alltogether when you want to.

But I also assume you would upgrade your electric system. Just as when underdriving some kits lower your abilty to generate as much electricity,( I bought an underdrive kit for another car of mine, and it said it couldnt support high watt stereo systems, something like over 300 it couldnt support)I would think using more would require you to store and distribute the electricity more effeiciently.

Me myself I would stay with an underdrive system that would keep the same alt performance as stock.
That way I wouldny have to worry about an electricalproblem wiping out my ac or waterpump, but I get paranoid about having to buy replacement parts so.... lol.

Also dont alot of euro cars use biodiesel? thats just a question, and 2 of the sites the one guy linked about electric power steering were about failed units, new ones had 2 yr warrenties, i hope the stuff lasts longer than that.

But its all preffereance

(please forgive horrible spelling and grammer, I should ahve paid mroe attention in school)

 

Playing with the formulas on that page what are input wats? is that the volt*amp thing still or something different?

 

1.) Only using a single 200amp alt @ 12v (also the value you need for the equasion)
2.) SOME Euro cars run on diesel, every diesel can run on biodisel, Gas is still the most popular.
3.) The Electric Drive unit weights 10lbs
4.) There are replacment Electric AC units that weight the same and have the drive built in
5.) I mentioned that the site that I link was for reman units and I mentioned that these parts tend to fail, as does stock, just less often.
6.) Use my (Anyone elses) name when refering to us, its polite and helps others not as involved in the site to make sense
7.) Converting to Electric AC, PS, WP will free up 3-6hp just in the shorter belt itself, eliminating the components will free up even more power. I estimate power gains with the WP and PS to be 20hp and when the AC in engaged a whopping 35hp can be saved with the three.


I also wanted to mention that earlier it was said that the electric water pump saved horsepower because it was more efficient.... That is untrue! I actually have a nice dyno comparison in a SuperChevy (Yes I know, so what! My first car was a 70' Chevelle 396.) The article was about an 02 Camaro LS1 and an electric water pump swap. They dyno'ed the car before and after with the same 160 degree fluid temp and a gain of 7.2RWHP and 5.2RWTQ

Now efficency doesnt matter when the when the temperature of the water is governed to maintain an exact themp, both water pumps maintained the same water temp so in this case efficency was not the case and its not the case with any other engine unless it lowers the water temp. SO THAT PROVES ANOTHER POINT FOR ME!!!

 

Welcome to MF Chase, good to have another member

 

What you're seeing is a more efficient pump. That electric water pump would pull less than the stocker even if it was belt driven. This was mentioned before, but you musta forgot.

I'm not mean, I'm only telling you the truth. This is elementary logic, and doesn't need my 6 year EE degree to figure out.

 

How about if we simplify this discussion by using a bicycle instead of a car...

-you can pedal the bike traditionally with the chain sending your leg energy to the rear wheel.

Or..

-you could have pedals attached to a generator which would in turn generate power that would be sent to an electric motor that is attached to the rear wheel. For the sake of this discussion let's just pretend the generator & electric motor don't weigh anything (doesn't make the bicycle heavier)

I guess NeoTokyo you're suspecting that the 2nd bike would be easier to pedal? Am I on the right track here? I'm just trying to get a solid understanding of where you're going.

 

First off lets tackle he Bike question.... GOOD GOD MAN THINK OF THE RPM's NEEDED!!! And there are already similar bikes available like that. They have a recharging unit that for so much energy expended so much becomes stored and thus you can be lazy and ride the motor up the hill.

They are for rent in San Fran.

Colorado Mustang must have failed to read my entire post, in rebuttal I quote none other than myself!

 

And these are by no means Tri-Athalon bikes, just lazy-boy bikes.

http://www.electric-bikes.com/

I GOOGLE!!!