hookedonkronik

Hello i'm looking for a diagnosis... (97 v6)

This started a few days ago after I disconnected my negative terminal of my battery, or at least when I noticed. I was driving and noticed my interior dash lights were very dim, looked at my voltage meter (normally 12), and its hovering around 10v. The N in the word NORMAL on the meter. It also gets lower and lower the longer I drive.

However, my car always starts.

My battery is under warranty (bought from Canadian Tire - I really dont like dealing with these guys), anyways I took it in and they first hooked up the two connectors to a handheld device wchich read the battery and spat out a peice of paper for me with the info. Also, when the guy saw under my hood he immedietely stated i'd need new terminals (the part that connects to the wire, not the battery). He said thise because he saw heavy corrosion on my positive terminal. Anyways, I had a wirebrush and scrubbed it perfectly clean.

The info claimed that my battery was fine, but needed to be recharged. So they took it and spent 1 hour recharging it. Guy said it was fine. So I put back in with perfectly clean posts and connected the terminals and have same problem.

Everytime before I start my car and I put my key forward to "accessories", my volt meter still reads at about 10v.

I'm thinking it could be my alternator, but i've had a lot of problems concerning my battery on my past 3 cars (sound systems also) and all of them have been because of a faulty battery.

Is there any way to single handedly test an alternator to see if it is the issue, without using a computer?

Does this situation sound familiar to anyone? Could old terminals prevent my car from getting the charge it needs, or does this sound like a dying alternator?

Sorry for ramble, but i'll appreciate any help, the store wanted to charge me money I dont have at the moment to test if its the alternator or battery or what.

Thanks!

ponysnake99

Sounds like a voltage regulator or a diod is shot in the altenator, a local auto parts store should have a load tester that could test the altenator for any problems. If you have a multimeter, you could test the output from the altenator itself.

mustangcat

Why don't you want to test your alternator using a computer? That'd be the quickest way to find out if thats the problem.

Make sure the Positive(+) terminal of your battery is secure; it doesn't budge when you tug on it from the battery or from the leading wire to the terminal. Also make sure your Sound Systems Remote(usually blue) wire is securely fastened and working; some Amps and other equipment will continuously stay on if the Remote Line is'nt working properly.

Good luck.

hookedonkronik

Thanks for the input guys,

Like mentioned before, i'd pay to have a computer diagnosis if i could afford it right now but im young student that needs to pay for stuff and cant afford the 35$ :P.

I'm thinking maybe my pops has a multimeter so ill ask him. If I can get access to one, how do you go about testing the alternator?

And its funny you say that about the remote wire not working properly, cuz i had an alpine screen installed, with amp and sub and it cut out one day and i was thinking after messing around with the system that maybe the remote wire blew. Just today I disconnected the 12v wire going to the positive terminal of the battery for the amp.