Hello,
I really hope this is not a beat to death issue, I have spent a considerable amout of time searching, but can't find what I'm looking for. I plan to build this car for track only drag racing use.

I am about to purchase my first Mustang, and honestly, I am quite removed from this community, and don't know much about the details from model to model. My plan is to transplant a non-stock motor and transmission into the car, so I really don't need any comparison's about engine's.

What I would really like to know is the differance if any from chassis to chassis. Specifically if there are any reasons why I should not by a V-6 model (they are cheap!), or if the manual cars vs. auto cars had any significant differances.

The ONLY driveline part I plan to re-use is the rear axle. Although, even that is not critical, because I will convert to four link type set up, so it would not be a huge deal to install a different axle.

Specific questions I have are:
-Is there a stand out reason why I shouldn't but a V-6? I have found a few possible cars for under 1K. GT's are considerably more, but will I save a bunch later?
-Does the V-6 have a smaller rear axle? Different ratio?
-Convertables are out of the question, but do any other models have any additional chassis support?
-Brakes, are they all at least 4 wheel disk? I am sure the calipers and rotors differ from model to model, but those can be easily swaped, I'd like to avoid a drum to disk conversion if I could.

Thanks in advance for the help! I look forward to more time here, and don't worry more info and pictures will follow as I go. I'm 99.9% sure it's going to be a one of a kind mustang, it will be love it or hate it I'm sure

 

I don't think there is difference in the chassis from 6 to a gt the axles are smaller on the v6 and they don't have posi-track the gt does any 94-98 will need subframe connectors and all models have disk brakes all the way around if ur gonna swap everything out id jus get the 6 and save the money

 

The only diff b/t the manual and auto cars is that if you buy an auto, it can be a PITA to convert it over. I suspect that your new trans is a 5-spd? Just a thought. But I would go with the V6 as well since you plan on swapping.

 

wait a minute, you're building a track only drag car and plan on using the stock axles? wtf?

And i'm pretty sure the V6s don't even come with an 8.8" rear.

 

Thanks everyone for the feedback, that's what I was looking for. The New car will be an Auto, and not of Ford origin, so I'll be looking at some serious fab work no matter the case. As for the rear axle, first off I don't expect to be much over 400 WHP while I am still normally aspirated. With that in mind I could start with a factory axle. However, as the car develops, and the wick gets turned up I am sure axle upgrades will become required. If I buy a V-6, it will obviously be a new axle right off the bat. Looks like if I get a GT, I can use the factory axle for a bit.

Thanks again for the help,

 

my friend broke his stock axle with a stock motor 03 GT and nitto drag radials. You don't necessarily need a lot of power to break them. Surely you'll be doing gears in the car before racing it so my suggestion is just do the whole rear end at once. That way you don't risk breaking a stock axle and having it cause a lot more damage as a result.

 

Not counting the body changes the same basic sub-structure has been used from 79-04 if you think about it. The K-member and transmission members can be swapped in favor of aftermarket to suit what ever engine/transmission combo you plan to use as theyre simply bolted in. You can use just about any exhaust out there for a Mustang to. Even the IRS on the Cobra uses the same basic mounting as the live axle setup. Not a problem tho as you want to use a 4-link.

With all that in mind and with what you have planned, starting with a used V6 would be the way to go, cheaper. All youd need is to find an 8.8. You could weld braces to the 8.8 and install c-clip eliminators and swap the factory 28 spline shafts/diff to a 31 spline but for all that you may as well go with a 9" right off the bat. Depending on your needs you can have a 9" custom made. Too many hard launches with slicks can snap stock axles so amny will recommend the 9" but some use an 8.8 without fuss so its up to you. And dont forget your rear torque boxes as the factory uses spot welds on them and too many hard launches will eventually tear the spot welds out so do yourself a favor during the build and fully weld them. And regardless of what year, get some sub frame connectors, they will help with that rollcage im sure you will be adding later. Maximum Motorsports has some good stuff and probably has everything you need chassis-wise.

If you buy a loose axle, the 8.8 has a square cover with rounded corners. The 7.5 used in lesser models has a round cover. Sometimes they are missing the axle tags.

You have a plan and thats good. Stick with it and you should do ok.

 

Great info! Thanks a bunch!