How to drill and tap into the manifold
Thread Starter
3rd Gear Member
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 655
From: Florida
How to drill and tap into the manifold
Hello all. Tomorrow I am going to drill and tap into my pi manifold for the coolant sensor, and could really use any tips any of you may have. I've never tapped a hole, but I actually bought the right machine drilling bit, so I'm going to try it.
I will be doing it with the manifold INSTALLED, so I'm also trying to figure out a way to catch the shavings before the drop into the manifold. Could anyone help me with suggestions on what techniques I should use in drilling? Just use a drill and do it slowly applying steady pressure? Is that all there is to it?
You guys rock. THanks!!
I will be doing it with the manifold INSTALLED, so I'm also trying to figure out a way to catch the shavings before the drop into the manifold. Could anyone help me with suggestions on what techniques I should use in drilling? Just use a drill and do it slowly applying steady pressure? Is that all there is to it?
You guys rock. THanks!!
Thread Starter
3rd Gear Member
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 655
From: Florida
RE: How to drill and tap into the manifold
My whole body is aching, and my mind is swimming with happiness. I spend the entire day on this project, and this is how it went: I read here: http://www.unitedmajority.com/module...viewtopic&t=23
that the aluminum crossover was REMOVABLE. So I spend a while trying to remove the six little bolts that hold it to the manifold, and found that one was unreachable because the block was in the way. SO! Instead of removing the entire manifold out, which entails removing the fuel rail, throttle body, etc., I just unbolted the whole thing and LIFTED IT UP sufficiently to reach that damn bolt. I did, removed the crossover, and began to tap the damn thing. I quickly found that the NTP tap I had couldn't be adapted to a standard drill, and there was really nothing I could do without an actual drill machine. So I took it to a machine shop, and they did it for 5 bucks (especially because I had the NTP tap (see the last pic in the link). Then I put it back on, and it turned out AMAZING.
As for the bloke talking about putting the sensor on the block, I know what you mean, but that drain plug IS NOT ACCESSIBLE without unbolting the whole motor form the motor mounts and hoisting the engine up. You can't access it from below--the front end axle, headers, and chassis all are in your way. If you did it from below, you're a freaking magician.
All in all, it turned out fantastic. If anyone has any questions, let me know! Thanks to everyone in here: You guys ROCK!
Gaspi
that the aluminum crossover was REMOVABLE. So I spend a while trying to remove the six little bolts that hold it to the manifold, and found that one was unreachable because the block was in the way. SO! Instead of removing the entire manifold out, which entails removing the fuel rail, throttle body, etc., I just unbolted the whole thing and LIFTED IT UP sufficiently to reach that damn bolt. I did, removed the crossover, and began to tap the damn thing. I quickly found that the NTP tap I had couldn't be adapted to a standard drill, and there was really nothing I could do without an actual drill machine. So I took it to a machine shop, and they did it for 5 bucks (especially because I had the NTP tap (see the last pic in the link). Then I put it back on, and it turned out AMAZING.
As for the bloke talking about putting the sensor on the block, I know what you mean, but that drain plug IS NOT ACCESSIBLE without unbolting the whole motor form the motor mounts and hoisting the engine up. You can't access it from below--the front end axle, headers, and chassis all are in your way. If you did it from below, you're a freaking magician.
All in all, it turned out fantastic. If anyone has any questions, let me know! Thanks to everyone in here: You guys ROCK!
Gaspi
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