i'm not sure if there's been a thread with this same question on here, but i'm gonna ask anyway.


what's the 'proper' way to lower a car? by proper, i mean what all do you have to get for it to ride like stock or perhaps better than stock

 

wym ride like stock? You should be most concerned about spring rates if thats your cupotea. Also shocks with valving set near stock. But why would you want stock? Go performance and firm it up. I have Eibach Sportlines and Tokiko shocks, along with all the accompanying goodies, like control arms and balljoints ect.. I love the way she handles.. smooth at high speeds and takes corners like on a rail

 

well i just wanted it to not have a really ****ty ride quality, that's basically all i meant by ride like stock, but i just got new balljoints and tie rod ends, so i should be good on that, i think the brand is mogul. and the springs i want to get are the eibach pro-kit.

also, i just got new shocks less than a year ago...would i have to get new shocks again after lowering the car?

 

springs, struts/shocks, caster/camber plates, bumpsteer kit, maybe x2 ball joints...

 

Prokit is nice, I had that but wanted lower, as for your shocks, what kinds did you get? And the balljoints you should have gone with the Steeda X2s like Onyx said

 

the shocks that i got are called gabriel ultra, i got em from autozone...so i can't imagine they'd be too wonderful

 

Nah those are OE replacements. They will work, but wont really give you the firmer performance feel. I went from KYB GR2s (another OE shock) to Tokikos and it was like night and day.

But to answer your question, those shocks will work with lowering springs.

 

The 'proper' way to lower a car and still retain a semblance of stockish ride quality is to not lower it very far. Both the suspension geometry and the amount of bump travel before hitting the bump stops go away with lowering, particularly in the Fox/SN95/New Edge models with the triangulated 4-link rear suspension.

Lowering a strut suspension can result in more roll, not less (unless you uprate the springs accordingly), and even then you're still more likely to frequently contact the bump stops.

The alternative is to relocate the suspension pivots to get somewhere near the OE geometry back (warning: doing this can get $pendy).

Unless I'm mistaken, sportlines pretty much have you riding the bump stops on the outside suspensions in much past moderate cornering, and reduced roll for that reason does not necessarily mean that your handling has been improved. There's a difference.


Norm