Does this sound like the clutch ?????
Hi I just got home from buying my 02 gt vert today it has 76K miles on it.
It was a 5 hour drive and as the drive went on the worse this problem got in4th and 5th gear if i tried to give it more than about half throttle it lugged or u may say it jerks. it happens in lower gears but you really gotta be on it hard. IF you push the clutch in while rolling or stopped the motor seems to be running fine you can rev it and it revs really quick it seems to be in the driveline why I think it may be the clutch????? any help or input would be awesome thanks alot and BY THE WAY I TRADED MY WS6 for this GT VERT.
ALSO the clutch pedal feels very very soft I thought i remembered my last gt to have a very stiff clutch???
It was a 5 hour drive and as the drive went on the worse this problem got in4th and 5th gear if i tried to give it more than about half throttle it lugged or u may say it jerks. it happens in lower gears but you really gotta be on it hard. IF you push the clutch in while rolling or stopped the motor seems to be running fine you can rev it and it revs really quick it seems to be in the driveline why I think it may be the clutch????? any help or input would be awesome thanks alot and BY THE WAY I TRADED MY WS6 for this GT VERT.
ALSO the clutch pedal feels very very soft I thought i remembered my last gt to have a very stiff clutch???
If it was the clutch the engine would rev in 4th or 5th gear but you wouldn't gain speed.
The clutch pedal on my '07 GT feels soft, but that's in comparison to older cars I've had.
It sounds like an ignition or fuel problem.
The clutch pedal on my '07 GT feels soft, but that's in comparison to older cars I've had.
It sounds like an ignition or fuel problem.
The only way you would get that result is if you were to shift it into that gear too soon but it would likely just slip first even then. I agree with Monkeyleg that your problem is ignition or fuel or at least some type of engine performance related problem.
why then does the motor idle rev up fine no problems no miss but under load its does that dont make sense to me? not saying any of you are wrong Im just trying to figure it out Kinda aggravated just buying the car and now this ?? Yea theres a warranty but i drove 6 hours to get it and dont really wanna drive back 6 hours to get them too look at it ?
I would first check stuff like the spark plugs and wires, I was having a similar problem in my thunderbird and it was because coolant was leaking down into the spark plug holes causing them to misfire when I gun it (this was at about 105k miles). make sure you aren't leaking coolant (happens a lot with the plastic manifolds) well your under the hood but I would guess it is the plugs are not firing right. wouldn't hurt to just change the plugs and wires. also try to meter your coil packs for spark.
next on the list after you check those out I would look into changing the fuel filter and then check the fuel pressure to make sure it isn't the pump.
with a clutch problem you would have more problems like putting the car into gear (it would grind and not go in gear) then rev at idle and when you gun it the car will rev up but just not accelerate as fast as it should (not jerk or not drive smooth).
next on the list after you check those out I would look into changing the fuel filter and then check the fuel pressure to make sure it isn't the pump.
with a clutch problem you would have more problems like putting the car into gear (it would grind and not go in gear) then rev at idle and when you gun it the car will rev up but just not accelerate as fast as it should (not jerk or not drive smooth).
thanks ill start there I drove it today and it ran fine and didnt jerk so i dont know but ill start with plugs n wires how do i go about checking the spark on the coils and how would i check fuel pressure????
you would have to use a multimeter, pull one spark plug wire off the pack at a time and check for DC current. to do this put the meters ground on the frame of the car (really any grounded exposed metal will work) and the positive in the coil pack. if you aren't getting current then that coil pack might be bad. for your year it might have a coil pack on each spark plug (no spark plug wires) that you would have to check all 8, my year uses two on the front of the motor that has 4 plugs to each.
checking fuel pressure you should replace the fuel filter at the same time since you have to depressurize the fuel line to hook up the gauge to check you pressure. you can get the filter for about $10 and they have a special tool to get the lines off (they will have both cheap plastic one [$5-$10] and nicer aluminum ones[$20-$30]). you can also rent the fuel pressure test kit from most stores too with just a down payment that will be refunded when they get it back.
step one you open your trunk and find the fuel kill switch that is hidden and unplug it.
step two wait for the car to die and try to start it again, if it does start just let it die again. when it no longer starts disconnect the negative on your battery.
step three would be replacing the filter.
step four hook up the fuel pressure test kit up to the fuel rail
step five reconnect the battery and kill switch and turn the car to on but don't start it. check for any leaks and look at the pressure in the gauge (you may have to turn it on and off a couple times to get it pressurized but don't start it yet) after you find out if that is to the right level then start the car and see what it goes up to (remember to note the numbers if you aren't sure what you year should be). next give it a little gas and watch what it goes up to.
after you are done testing the pressure remove the test kit the same way you installed it. let us know what numbers you get and we can let you know if its right. my car is about 30 psi on, 40 psi running idle, and about 35 psi rev'd.
checking fuel pressure you should replace the fuel filter at the same time since you have to depressurize the fuel line to hook up the gauge to check you pressure. you can get the filter for about $10 and they have a special tool to get the lines off (they will have both cheap plastic one [$5-$10] and nicer aluminum ones[$20-$30]). you can also rent the fuel pressure test kit from most stores too with just a down payment that will be refunded when they get it back.
step one you open your trunk and find the fuel kill switch that is hidden and unplug it.
step two wait for the car to die and try to start it again, if it does start just let it die again. when it no longer starts disconnect the negative on your battery.
step three would be replacing the filter.
step four hook up the fuel pressure test kit up to the fuel rail
step five reconnect the battery and kill switch and turn the car to on but don't start it. check for any leaks and look at the pressure in the gauge (you may have to turn it on and off a couple times to get it pressurized but don't start it yet) after you find out if that is to the right level then start the car and see what it goes up to (remember to note the numbers if you aren't sure what you year should be). next give it a little gas and watch what it goes up to.
after you are done testing the pressure remove the test kit the same way you installed it. let us know what numbers you get and we can let you know if its right. my car is about 30 psi on, 40 psi running idle, and about 35 psi rev'd.
ok thanks again ill get started on this after thanksgiving this is not my daily driver so its not a serious hurry, but thanks all for the input and no it does it any gear but i drove the car yesterday and it drove like a champ no problems at all so im thinking maybe it is ignition or fuel now????


