scoltharp

My clutch is slipping again. When I replace it this month, it will be the 3rd time I've had to replace my clutch since I got my 07 V6 in February 2010. I replaced the stock clutch with a Centerforce Dual Friction. Then less than 3 months after that, I had to replace it again. This time I went with a Spec Stage 1. Now, a year and 4 months later, it's slipping again.

I know racing wears it down, but I don't race that often. This time it was a little different. The first 2 times the clutch went out, it just started slipping more and more. This time this is what happened:

First, it would get stuck in neutral. When I put it in neutral at a stop light and then tried to put it back in 1st, it felt like something was stuck. I literally had to jamb it in first (wouldn't go in any other gear either). It did it almost every time I put it in neutral. Then all of a sudden it stopped. Now a couple weeks after it stopped doing that I noticed my clutch slip a few times. Then it stopped, and now it is slipping all the time.

I know how to drive a manual. I never hold the clutch in for more than 3-4 seconds when shifting, I don't hold the clutch in when slowing down. I either put it in neutral or downshift. I really paid attention to the way I drove after the second time I had to replace my clutch. I counted the times I grinded gears (only 4 times in the past 15 months). If someone pulls up next to me I'll race them, but it hasn't happened much in the past 8 months. I don't take it to the track or anything. It's my daily driver.

I feel like there has to be something else wrong with it. The same shop installed both clutches and they specialize in mustangs. Should I take it somewhere else? Has anyone else had this problem?

craig71springsport

Sounds like you're just beating your car up to me. Anything can happen in any situation, the number of times you grind your gears or how much you race it doesn't necessarily matter too much. You can take a brand new clutch and kill it in a day. You have to examine your driving habits closely and really take a third person perspective and see how much you really beat it up.

From the list of mods you have done to it, I would assume that you beat it up pretty good. Chill out when driving.

neo8222

Normally I would agree with the guy above me however the comment that you couldn't get it into gear sounds like some sort of issue with the hydraulic system for the clutch. I would inspect the master and slave cylinder for proper operation, replace the lines, and bleed the system. If that doesn't fix it then it has to be your driving.

EDIT! I just looked at your mods. between the 100 shot, intake, and tune you could be pushing close to 400 ft lbs of torque on the motor at peak torque. The spec stage 1 clutch is rated for 335 ft lbs of torque. your burning the clutches up because your buying OEM replacement clutches for a modded car. Get a clutch that can actually handle the amount of power you are going to lay down. At MINIMUM you need a spec stage 2+ or better yet a stage 3. stage 2+ is rated for 440 ft lbs which would actually be able to handle it.

scoltharp

Thanks for the tips. I guess I will have to start taking it easy. I actually have only used my nitrous twice since I got it. I still need a few more parts to finish the install because right now I have a push button set up and I don't want to do it like that.

Would you recommend a stage 2, 2+, or 3? I will eventually finish my nitrous, so I am thinking a 2+. But the 3 is about the same price. I read that the 2+ with the open face is better than the 3 with the puck style. What do you guys think?

neo8222

After owning a spec stage 3 six puck I can say without a doubt the six puck will be snappy and grip harder how ever it's not as good for a daily driver because of the chatter it can create. Starting from a dead stop in the rain when I had my mustang was a rather "interesting" thing lol. As long as you don't plan on going much higher on the power levels a stage 2+ should be a good compromise between power handing and drive-ability.