Lasered01

I went out and bought new cross drilled rotors and pads to do a front break job and have run into a problem that I have not experienced on any other vehicle that I've done brakes on before. I started on the driver's side, removed the lug nuts and then could not get the wheel to come off! I put the driver side back together and tried the passenger side; no problem. So I went back to the driver side and finally got the damn wheel off by pushing in on the bottom with my feet and pulling from the top with my hands. The wheel was stuck on due to corrosion between it and the rotor hub. I removed the caliper, the caliper anchor plate and the retainer washers, but the rotor will not come off. I have pried, beat and heat the rotor hub with a plumber's torch and still no luck. I ended up putting it back together with the old pads and everything...I really don't want to have to take it to a mechanic for such a simple job. Any suggestions?

89stanglx

i have had the same problem before on a older vehicle even using a torch. Spray in between the lugbolts the best you can with w-d40 or whatever you have and soak them every hour or so and slam it with a big block of wood once in a while the next morning it will beg for mercy lol.

Lasered01

I shot the edge of the hub and inside the studs with Rust Buster...maybe I need to give it time like you say. I might have to tear it down again next week end and soak the **** out of it! Or maybe tomorrow night...I need to drive my '72 F250 anyway but 9 MPG right now is kind of expensive!

[IMG]local://upfiles/18508/18618C2694734056BF8D6D3A26C8FD7F.jpg[/IMG]

83beast

hey, i know on my 83 that theres these two holes in the rotor. they are threaded and are in the same circle as the studs. what theyre made for is just this. u screw in a bolt, then gently screw them in farther untill the rotor comes off. the drums have the same thing. yours might have it, but not sure. thats how i got mine off.

Tim37

rubber mallot

Lasered01

I used a lot more than a rubber mallet! Rubber mallet, 22 ounce hammer with a block of wood, steel wedge, crow bar even a torch and still no luck...

Lasered01

Man wouldn't that be handy! If there are holes there for that purpose I'd best check myself in to the nut house soon...

03YellowPony

I've seen that problem many times as a tech. I spray the area with TriFlow, and then use a mini sledge hammer. You're gonna replace the rotor anyway. So don't worry about damageing it. Hit it HARD. But, do it on opossing ends. Hit it a couple of times on the bottom, then rotate it and do it again. Might take some time, but it works.

PS
Spray the Triflow at the base of the lugstuds too. It's penetrating oil. It may be stuck at the hub, or the lugstuds. Or both.

Lasered01

Thanks for the input! That's what this forum's all about, right? Actually I was trying to save the rotors and get them turned so that the next time I do brakes all I have to do is buy pads...but I might have to bite the bullet.

So far I have sprayed Rust Buster around the base of the lugs and at the joint between the rotor and the hub...I'm going to try again this weekend. I'll spray it and let it soak and spray it and let it soak until I get it. I can't believe the corrosion on it for a 2001. Last winter was pretty bad here and they use salt mixed wth volcanic ash on the roads now, I'm thinking that this must be the culprit. I just did new rotors and pads on my wife's Jeep and it was pretty bad also. When I put the Gt back together I'll be coating the back of the rotor, the face of the hub and the studs with anti-seize compound.

182361rvw

Go to the local Autozone and rent a "Drum Puller", A giant 3 jaw puller. Remove your dust cap from the hub and center the puller bolt on the spindle. Set the jaws around the rotor and begin tightening the bolt. This will pull evenly on the rotor and anong with the large amount of Rust Buster you have used should allow the rotor to pop free. If it still sticks, give it a small hit on the back lower side with the hammer after you have the tension on the pulling jaws.