xcoreyyyx

I have recently acquired another mustang. This one has an auto start by tapping unlock on the "keyfob" x2 and it also has a newer alarm system I think? The problem is that it keeps draining the battery fast and that it keeps tripping the "anti theft" device in the car. When you don't use the auto unlock in the car by pushing the "keyfob" twice, and just open the door manually, the car will not start and just all the lights on the dash will light up and blink and click.

Also, sometimes there will be a delay and it will just randomly try and autostart itself. I was changing out the brakes once and tried to open the doors with the fob and 5 minutes later when I was no where near the keys, it just tries to go through the startup process (like someone was trying to cycle the key but thankfully there wasn't enough battery juice)

I have replaced the battery 2 times with brand new batteries and it keeps draining them like they are nothing and this is just sitting not being used.

I look under the steering column, where the pedals are, and see all of the normal stuff then there are a few things that are weird. There are about 6 black boxes taped together, maybe capacitors or relays?, and then a bunch of wires coming off of them. 3 of those wires between where they hit those black boxes and wherever they go to (I don't really want to take the whole dash apart to find out) have different size fuses, then continue up behind the steering column somewhere.

I have tried to contact the companies name on it multiple times with no luck of hearing back from them. I have checked under the hood for a straight battery connection without luck and I have tried unplugging the fuses that I found and everything related to the problem still seemingly worked.

Any ideas or suggestions on what to do or how to find everything and take it out of the car all together?

dawson1112

what is the manufacturer of the auto start company and what model is it?

Its almost impossible to tell you what is wrong with out being there to see what all is done. Usually you have a remote start box and a pats securlock interface to bypass the factory security system when the auto start is activated.

You may have better luck taking it to someplace that understands the system you have and can see what is done.
Other than that I sugest you remove it all, which can be a pain I know but , sometimes starting over is all you can do .

xcoreyyyx

I cannot tell who the manufacturer is. I typed in the relays or whatever the things are I saw and got a company called "directed electronics" which I assume the model has to be an earlier viper system. I really don't want the system in it at all that is why I want to remove it all but I need to know how to go about doing this. If pictures are needed I will add them tomorrow or so if you think you can help. I can always email the pictures directly also if you think you can help.

xcoreyyyx

Here are pictures of everything. Got up under everything and took off the panel and had a friend write down the numbers I could find. There is a picture with 2 little black boxes.

The smaller of the 2 boxes has written on it,

"Your Valet"
"model# 551T"
"Direct Electronics"


The Larger of the 2 boxes has on it,

"AutoMate"
"Model:1"


There are a few pictures of the little boxes like transistors or relays or something say,

"Direct Electronics"
"P/N 610T"
"12vdc -insert gap here- 40/30 amp"

There are about 7 visible little boxes of that nature all hooked up in there. 4 are taped together with an odd one at the end, 2 are taped together that I cannot reach, and 1 is just hanging by itself.


I found the manual to it but it doesn't tell me directions to take it out. I guess it would be just reverse the installation steps but everything is a mess so I would not know what to really start with.

Any ideas? Should I just disconnect the boxes and possibly things would still work and not draw any power at all? I just really want everything out of there but if it can be solved by that for now I could go along with it and possibly get better knowledge of it and take it out eventually.

dawson1112

Those 3 fuses that you have in your hand there should kill the remote start system if you pull them out. and yea that is a cluster F#*& lol

That looks like a self install to me.

xcoreyyyx

Yeah, it definitely looked like a self install to me and it is EVERYWHERE. I have tried pulling a fuse at a time hoping it would shut it down but it didn't. Next thing I will try is all 3 fuses and also just unplugging the boxes.

I am hoping everything that are hooked up to the boxes are aftermarket wires and I can just follow wires and either unsplice them and pull all of the wiring out. I am hoping he didn't wire anything himself like the starter into the box then into the actual starter.

Do you happen to have a default wiring guide for that area by chance or anyone viewing the thread?

dawson1112

I believe this will help you some what to uninstall the system. This should be the wire colors and locations of the stereo and factory ignition including the security stuff.

2001 FORD
MUSTANG 2DR COUPE
------------------------------
RADIO_MEMORY GRN/YEL
RADIO_SWITCHED YEL/BLK
RADIO_GROUND BLK/GRN -
RADIO_ILLUMINATION LT.BLU/RED
FRONT_SPEAKER_SIZE 5 X 7'
FRONT_SPEAKER_LOCATION FRONT DOORS
FRONT_RIGHT_SPEAKER_POSITIVE WHT/LT.GRN
FRONT_RIGHT_SPEAKER_NEGATIVE NA
FRONT_LEFT_SPEAKER_POSITIVE ORG/LT.GRN
FRONT_LEFT_SPEAKER_NEGATIVE LT.BLU/WHT
REAR_SPEAKER_SIZE 5 X 7'
RIGHT_REAR_SPEAKER_POSITIVE ORG/RED
RIGHT_REAR_SPEAKER_NEGATIVE BRN/PNK
REAR_LEFT_SPEAKER_POSITIVE GRY/LT.BLU
REAR_LEFT_SPEAKER_NEGATIVE TAN/YEL
POWER_ANTENNA_TRIGGER AMP=BLU
-----------------------------------------------------
Security Information

STARTER WHT/PNK +
START_LOCATION IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
TACH_WIRE LT.GRN/WHT
TACH_LOCATION POWER CONTROL MOD BEHIND RT.KICK
IGNITION_WIRE RED/LT.GRN
IGNITION_LOCATION IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
IGN_2_WIRE GRY/YEL +
IGN_2_LOCATION IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
ACCESSORY_WIRE GRY/YEL +
ACCESSORY_LOCATION IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
NEUTRAL_SAFE_WIRE WHT/PNK
NEUTRAL_SAFE_LOCATION IGNITION HARNESS
BRAKE_SW RED/GRN (+)
BRAKE_LOCATION AT BRAKE SWITCH
SPEED_SENSE WHT/ORG
SPEED_LOCATION PIN 68 AT PCM RT. KICK PANEL
WINDOW_UP LF:WHT/BLK
WINDOW_UP_LOCATION RF:WHT/YEL LR:GRY/ORG RR:RED/BL
WINDOW_DOWN LF:YEL
WINDOW_DOWN_LOCATION RF:TAN/LT.BLU LR:YEL/BLU RR:YEL/BL
TRUNK_WIRE VIO/YEL (+)
TRUNK_LOCATION AT SWITCH OR DRIV KICK PANEL
HEADLIGHTS YEL/RED (+)
HEAD_LOCATION AT LIGHT SWITCH
FACTORY_ALARM DK.GRN/VIO(-)
FACTORY_LOCATION KEYLESS MODULE
TRUNK_SWITCH_WIRE

xcoreyyyx

Its going to be a mess. I will probably get to it either tonight or tomorrow, testing and taking things out. On this hot and muggy morning, I have just spent 2 hours ripping out an restraint control module on another mustang while cutting my arms all up. This has been a lovely morning after practically breaking apart the factory radio because they have never been removed before and were like wedged in there or something was wrong.

dawson1112

lol There is a special tool to remove ford radios.. I use a bent coat hanger or stiff wire,

xcoreyyyx

Trust me, I had the tool and tried metal coat hangers. It was just like stuck in there. I do not know what was wrong. The upper one was like dry rotted and cracked around those holes where you put the tool in but I didn't even mess with that one. The bottom one was just a huge pain and about an hour of trying different things to get it out. I eventually got it but it was just in a hot car it sucks trying to not break things.

I will MOST LIKELY replace it with a new one. Aren't there "filler panels so I can take the "factory cd player" out and not have an open spot there? I am pretty sure I have seen just plates you put over those empty holes if you take one of them out.