teamscon

Hello! I have a 06 Mustang GT catback exhaust and cold air intake. 80k miles.

I was driving 9/29 and ran it almost out of gas. Lower then I had before saying 20miles left (Didnt wanna stop).

***All of a sudden, the dash lights up with warning lights.***

Issues: low oil pressure, fuel low DTE FLI data err, parking brake on(isn't), turn signal inside notifications dont work, but blinkers do. AC stopped working all at the same time.

The car is running flawless ... No issues there.

***ODB DIAG***
C1446 BRAKE SWITCH CURCUIT MALFUNCTION - ABS (1 ERROR)
PO463 FUEL LEVEL SENSORS A CIRCUIT HIGH INPUT (4 ERRORS)
P2068 FUEL LEVEL SENSOR B CIRCUIT HIGH INPUT (4 ERRORS)


Any ideas to you brilliant people out there who could possibly save me alot of money?

Please be serious with the "go buy this part" suggestions because I don't have the money to buy alot of parts at all - fresh off a divorce

ALL HELP WILL BE APPRECIATED MORE THEN YOU KNOW ... I LOVE THIS CAR AND I FEEL LIKE I HAVE A SICK FAMILY MEMBER LOL.

teamscon

bumpity bump? Noone?

AzPete

Possible water leaked into the smart junction box in the passenger kick panel. Takes a bit for the damage to effect the circuits.

Check out your alternator and battery just to be on the safe side knowing they are good.

petrock

You clearly have an electrical issue. I (and hopefully no-one else) will not give you a “go buy this part” suggestion because that would be irresponsible. There is no silver bullet for electrical problems. The only way to fix it is to diagnose it first and fix it right the first time. Throwing parts at a problem is just a waste of time & money. Its like throwing darts in the dark and hoping to hit a bulls-eye. Sometimes you’ll get lucky, but more often then not you’ll miss.

http://www.obd-codes.com/p0463

The codes are indicating that the computer is getting more volts, amps or both from the fuel level sending unit circuit then it expects. This could be a number of different things, including, but not limited, to a short in the circuit, a bad sending unit, a bad instrument cluster, or a bad PCM.

When you filled up the tank, and cleared the codes (via code reader or disconnecting the battery for 10 minutes) did the codes go away? There may be a problem with the fuel sending unit in the fuel pump assembly in the tank. If the codes go away (and stay gone) after a fill up and clearing the codes that will make a (simple) short less likely. If you are not good at reading electrical diagrams and testing circuits with a multi-meter, I would take this to a shop that is good at electrical problems to have them investigate the problem.

Good luck...