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The bubbles coming out at a certain temperature is a normal way of getting all the air pockets out of the system. Since you just changed the radiator, you have air in the block. It won't all come out until you run it up to temperature allowing the thermostat to open and circulate the air pockets out. But this should stop after a couple minutes. Fluid should drop quite a bit when it does this, so be ready to add when it drops.
I assumed you had bled the system after the radiator swap. If not, these bubbles are perfectly normal. Once the coolant level stabilizes, throw the cap back on and drive it for 5-10 min. Keeping an eye on the temp gauge, if you have one. After the drive, let car cool, then top off coolant and your done.
You sound like you know your way around cars, let me know if I'm not understanding you correctly. Good luck
Thanks dude, no I didn't bleed the air out as I wasn't sure you needed to. Besides the radiator cap is the highest point so I was assuming it didn't need.
After I get my package from summit with my new plugs, I'll try it out. I'll keep you all posted and thanks for your help.
Bottom hose is fine entire time. It doesn't compress.
My water pump is literally brand new. I installed it before the car sat. I only use anti freeze at the exact mixture so it can't be rusted. Besides when i rev the engine before it warms up I see the water level go up and down which means it's working.
I installed the new sparks and managed to tune the engine but once it warms up the knocking noise begins. once the noise starts then I get the overflowing of the coolant. First knocking then immediately after the overdlowing. And it's around the cylinder number 3-4.
What shall I do now? I have ordered a fel pro gasket kit to be on the safe side. I'm assuming when engine warms up the cylinder leaks out gas from the chamber into the water passage. Knocking noise could be water mixing with the hot gasses? Or water seeping into the cylinder?
Sorry to hear this is giving you this much trouble.
What doesn't make sense to me is that the coolant level fluctuates when the throttle is applied before the thermostat opens. It should be closed until 180'/190' then open and circulate. Fluid level should stay constant until then. Maybe the thermostat is stuck open, but still this shouldn't be the cause of your troubles.
It sounds like a bad head gasket again, which those test strips would confirm. But since they're not readily available over there, it's hard to check. Wish I could be more help, and kinda surprised someone with more knowledge then me chimed in here to give more advice yet. You could start a thread in the Classics section and direct them to this thread. Hopefully one of those guys will know more.
I'm still stumped on the noise, sounds like one or two cylinders are running much hotter than the others.
Nice looking Mustang though, and you've got a beautiful tile garage floor lol. It is a shame to make a mess on that.
Thanks for the compliments...lol tile is actually stamped cement outside the garage. I just hose it down. It's the 5th time. I'm used to it.
I'm also leaning towards head gasket but I'm hoping that I miraculously find something before I start tearing down the engine. Lol very optimistic right?
I changed all the plugs as I had one dead one on cyl 3 and funny enough that's where the knocking sounds like its coming from.
Anyway I made my own leak down tester and tomorrow will attempt to blow 100 psi into the cylinders and see if my valves are ok and if I can find anything more before I take things apart.
Hopefully that #3 cyl wasn't hydro- locked with coolant and didn't bend a rod.
Just thinking out loud here, do you have a way to pressurize the cooling system, then remove #3 plug and turn the motor over looking or smelling for any sign of coolant ? Or just remove all plugs to be safe, till you find out for sure.
Ok so I decided at 9pm to start taking apart my engine to remove heads and take them to the machine shop tomorrow. I've taken everything apart and loosened the 10 bolts on each head but haven't yanked them off yet as its now 1am and I'd rather wait until morning to have full light out and be able to see what's up with the head gasket. I want to see where the problem is with the combustion leak into the coolant.
What I did find is that the rear coolant passage on the intake manifold was approx 85% clogged. See below:
Drivers side rear intake manifold
Passengers side rear on intake manifold
I had one fukin hell of a time trying to take out the coolant drain plugs from on the block. And i would have expected water to gush out rather than to just pour gently. Is there a way to flush the block and make sure there is no gook in the coolant like in my manifold?
Now back to my problem, being that I had a rear coolant passage on intake almost clogged up, this could possibly the noise I'm hearing but doesn't account for the pressure in cooling system and eventually overflowing of coolant.
Ok so I decided at 9pm to start taking apart my engine to remove heads and take them to the machine shop tomorrow. I've taken everything apart and loosened the 10 bolts on each head but haven't yanked them off yet as its now 1am and I'd rather wait until morning to have full light out and be able to see what's up with the head gasket. I want to see where the problem is with the combustion leak into the coolant.
What I did find is that the rear coolant passage on the intake manifold was approx 85% clogged. See below:
Drivers side rear intake manifold
Passengers side rear on intake manifold
I had one fukin hell of a time trying to take out the coolant drain plugs from on the block. And i would have expected water to gush out rather than to just pour gently. Is there a way to flush the block and make sure there is no gook in the coolant like in my manifold?
Now back to my problem, being that I had a rear coolant passage on intake almost clogged up, this could possibly the noise I'm hearing but doesn't account for the pressure in cooling system and eventually overflowing of coolant.
Wow, I've never seen one that bad. Good call on ripping it down. You can see how close coolant was getting to your intake runner. I don't know what your water quality is like over there, but I'd check into using a good water source and a good antifreeze for aluminum. Some antifreeze companies make coolant specifically for use in newer motors with aluminum blocks and heads. Looks like there was some kind of bad chemical reaction going on inside your motor.
Were any off the piston tops washed clean ? Ops, I'll guess you'll find that out when you pull the heads.
Only way I flush the cooling system is with a running motor and one of those bottles of system cleaners where you add it to your system, drive for an hour, then flush entire system , then refill with fresh coolant.
I'm leaning more and more toward a bad head gasket now. There was some kind of chemical reaction going on in your cooling system that might have ate through your head gasket.
Again, good call on the tear down, you might have just saved yourself a ton of money and fewer headaches down the road.
04-02-2015, 07:10 AM
