yellow road paint removal
#1
yellow road paint removal
I did a search and for love or money I couldn't find it here. I did a Google search with mixed results. Most of the websites says it's a b!tch and I should go to a professional. I'm thinking I would, but I wanted to throw a shout out to you all and see if anyone has had experience in removing it.
It's cured and it's hard, but there's not a whole lot of it. So I have that going for me, which is nice.
Anyway, any thoughts would be welcomed!
--EDIT--
In my searches, I found this
too easy?
Anyone ever use this stuff?
It's cured and it's hard, but there's not a whole lot of it. So I have that going for me, which is nice.
Anyway, any thoughts would be welcomed!
--EDIT--
In my searches, I found this
too easy?
Anyone ever use this stuff?
#2
RE: yellow road paint removal
I have no clue about that system, but I would be a little leery because its a harsh chemical that actually harms your clearcoat and paint, nottice they said that you will need to do a spot pollish to return the shine, meaning it dulls the **** out of your paint. If you are going to go that way then you need to buy one more item. You can buy this product at Reebe's or Napa Auto parts. Its called TR3 and it will actually lay down a new clearcoat for you where one is lacking, and its easy like wax. Its about $6 bux (Use to be just under $3.)
Now the way that I would try first is uses detailing clay. Mothers and Meguire make detailing clay kits that come with the clay bar and the showroom finish spray. Both kits are fairly equal and remove MOST stuck on grime and fallout. The kits range from $12 - 20 dollars. You will need to wax the area with a high quality polish afterwords (Liquid Goldclass works great for me.)
Now both of these steps will run you about $30 bux in the end (From product to wax) unless you already have the wax. I havnt used Claybars for anything harsher then road tar and fallout but it works wonders. The other stuff I wouldnt try it just because of the chemical thing. Also being an inpatient bastard I would go with the claybar because I wouldnt have to send away and wait for anything
There is one last type of claybar you can get your hands on that you need to be very carefull with when you use it. It is sooooo rough that it will go to the metal, Its purple Claybar and can be bought at many automotive paint and body shops for about $10 dollars. You must always use a spray like Showroom Finish so you dont kill the paint
Good Luck.
-Eric-
Now the way that I would try first is uses detailing clay. Mothers and Meguire make detailing clay kits that come with the clay bar and the showroom finish spray. Both kits are fairly equal and remove MOST stuck on grime and fallout. The kits range from $12 - 20 dollars. You will need to wax the area with a high quality polish afterwords (Liquid Goldclass works great for me.)
Now both of these steps will run you about $30 bux in the end (From product to wax) unless you already have the wax. I havnt used Claybars for anything harsher then road tar and fallout but it works wonders. The other stuff I wouldnt try it just because of the chemical thing. Also being an inpatient bastard I would go with the claybar because I wouldnt have to send away and wait for anything
There is one last type of claybar you can get your hands on that you need to be very carefull with when you use it. It is sooooo rough that it will go to the metal, Its purple Claybar and can be bought at many automotive paint and body shops for about $10 dollars. You must always use a spray like Showroom Finish so you dont kill the paint
Good Luck.
-Eric-
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