Aweaver

I put fi tech fuel injection on my 65 it has a 302 . I can't get it to stop falling on it's face when I stand on it. I've tried everything. Anyone have any ideas?

tw1234

http://fitechefi.com/tech-posts/fite...-instructions/

Don't know much about this system. Have you set the accelerator pump as per basic setup instruction? I'd try their support service if you can't solve it. Good luck.

Aweaver

I have tried everything I know to try and I did call their tech line but never had any luck. Other than the big stumble when you stand on it, it runs pretty darn good

Derf00

Ideally, get it on a Dyno and get a A/F reading or install a wideband guage and the accompanying sensor so you can make the appropriate adjustment or, follow the adjustment instructions in the manual.

Accel pump/ Fast Accel adjustment:

If the system is having a hesitation or bogging issue, and you IAC steps are between 3-10 at warm idle, then your next step would be to adjust the accel pump function to increase or decrease the fuel added on acceleration. To start with turn the key to the on position and then find Go EFI Tuning on the main menu and press enter. Then find Accel pump and press enter. You will see a menu with multiple different settings, you need to focus on the Accel pumps (20f, 65f, 170f) and Fast Accel (20f, 65f, 170f). These setting adjust how much fuel, at varying temperatures, the system injects when you accelerate. Accel pump is used for any normal throttle input, Fast Accel is for any fast throttle inputs or Wide Open Throttle.

Hesitation: If the vehicle has a hesitation (when you step on the throttle and the engine does hangs and/ or almost dies and then suddenly take off) this normally is a lack of fuel so you would fix this by increasing the Accel Pump (for normal throttle input hesitations) or Fast Accel (for fast throttle or WOT inputs). You would make changes starting in increments of 10, to the temp range that you are finding the issue to reside in.

Bogging/engine loads up/slow to respond: If the vehicle is bogging (when you step on the throttle and the engine is slower/sluggish to come up to a higher rpm) this is normally caused by over fueling. To fix this you would need to reduce the amount of fuel it is injecting as an accel pump shot. To do this this decrease the Accel Pump (for normal throttle input hesitations) or Fast Accel (for fast throttle or WOT inputs). You would make changes starting in increments of 10, to the temp range that you are finding the issue to reside in.

Aweaver

My IAC steps are 10 . I've changed the accelerator pump settings so much it's nuts . I'll probably wait till spring and get it on a dyno. Thanks I have really been tempted to put a carb on it . But I hate to give up on it.

proeagles

I had the same problem with a FAST system I tried to put on a 351 mildly built in my 32 hot rod with side pipe exhaust. According to the tech folks, my O2 sensor must have been too far down stream or too close to the collector or too close to where the muffler and collector joined with a slip joint fit. There was always going to be a slight leak at that point because of the way the system was made. My point is that every thing they said was related to the O2 sensor. Put a Holley Street Avenger carb on and never had another problem. Out of curiosity, are you using the Fitech fuel pump gizmo that mounts in the engine compartment or did you install a real fuel injection fuel pump?

Aweaver

I have their fuel pump under the hood

proeagles

I wonder if that contraption actually works since it is taking less fuel pressure and boosting it appropriately via a very small collection tank. I know Edelbrock is doing something similar now but if you are getting fuel at say 7 lbs and then making operate at 45 lbs, how long will that reservoir of 7 lb fed fuel last at 45 lbs which is typical of a fuel injected engine.

Aweaver

The only problem I have is when I floor it once it gets the RPMS up it will pull hard till it gets to the rev limiter. I talked to a guy today about putting it on his dyno . So hopefully sometime next month we will give that a shot.

Derf00

That's how Direct Injection cars work. They have a pump in the tank that sends it at roughly 30-60 PSI then a secondary High Pressure pump that sits right on the fuel rail attached to the head/intake and bump the pressure up to some ungoddly PSI figure (like 30,000).

I would think that a system that would be running at a much lower PSI (50/60) would work, unless the component itself is faulty in this case.