I moved my 2006 GT from one gas pump to another with the gas cap off. A couple of days later I noticed the check engine light (engine icon) was on. This could be because the gas cap had been off. Will the icon eventually go off if the gas cap was the temporary problem?

 

If that was the issue then it should. Be worth your while to run into Autozone or wherever and have them pull the code(s) for you, as moving the car 20' with the gas cap off is pretty unlikely to have caused a DTC.

When you get the code(s) please feel free to post back here and we can go from there.

 

After 8-10 drives the warning had not reset so I tried disconnecting the negative battery cable for 15 seconds. The warning light is no longer on. Will watch this week and see if it comes back on.

John

 

Yeah let us know on that.... Any driveability issues?

 

No drivability issues.

 

(& really, the answer is 'sometimes' they go off, & sometimes warnings will atay on, even if everything is ok & you reset stuff)

there's so much electronics that they are pretty fussy

 

My son's CEL went out on its own after I fixed the issue. If there is no more issue,
it takes about 25 key on, run, off cycles for the light to go out. I had a 2000 Avenger
ES with a bypassed EGR. SES light would come on, then go off after 30 runs, then come
back on in 3 days. When I needed the emissions test done, I would reset it, then take it
in before the SES came on. Passed emissions every time...

 

Mustang Dude is right once you fix the problem the light will go out after so many key cycles, however the code will still be stored in the ECM.

If you dump the codes by disconnecting the battery a code will come up on the ECM
(will not turn the check engine light on) of P1000, This indicates the codes have been dumped

This code will stay on the ECM until you drive the car and all systems have cycled at least two times, may be more.

In PA there are some inspection shops that will fail IM, tell you to drive the car for 100 miles and bring back to be checked.

 

All PA emissions tests will fail until the system is "ready". As soon as they
hook it up, it will display that the car is not ready for emissions testing, that
a drive cycle must be completed. They may get instructions on that drive
cycle, and take your car out for it, but some, no, you have to come back
when it's ready. It's called Emissions Readiness.

Anytime you erase codes with a tuner or code reader, the entire system
goes into a NOT READY state. A normal drive cycle of 100+ miles will
get it ready, but some stations will have a drive procedure to get it ready.
Some cars can be forced into a ready state, but not all. You can use VCDS
to force VWs to be ready.

With DODGE, you have to drive it. What is good with dodge (not all) is, you know
it is not ready by turning the key to run, wait 13 seconds. If the CEL then blinks, it's
not ready for testing. Easy... Love that feature, my '07 Charger had that. I would go
to the econo tune before emissions, but had to drive it, and how I knew it was ready
was if the CEL did not blink at run position after 13 seconds. Then I could take it in
for emissions.

FYI, they are all called ECUs, people just changed the names to ECM, PCM, and so on.
ECU means Emissions Control Unit. People just started calling them ECMs, PCM,
and so on... It's ECU; by EPA designation, and definition.

To get ready: Drive, keeping the rpm's between 2500 and 3000 and do 55 to 60 mph for 15-20 miles and it goes right into ready mode.

 

https://www.smogtips.com/smog-questi...ors-Not-Ready-