Just bought 2010 gt its throwing these codes
06-08-2019, 03:13 AM
#2
Gentleman's Relish
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: AZ
Posts: 13,090
05-09 GTs usually throw a camshaft code p0022 when the alternator starts going out. One or more bad diodes in the rectifier throw a bunch of electrical noise into the electrical system which affects the signal wire for the cam sensor that messes up the sensors sine wave.
2010 gts have the identical engine but the alternator is different. Still it’s worth checking out. If you don’t have access to an (oscillo)scope for checking the sine wave I would recommend taking it to the dealer or auto electric shop and pay the diag fee. That way you either determine that’s the issue so you can fix it yourself or, find out what the issue is to save your wallet from the parts canon.
a bad cam signal throws the timing off which can affect the A/F ration and run the engine either rich or lean.
also, that p0100 means the codes were erased very recently and the computer hasnt completed a drive cycle. Let me guess, the check engine light wasn’t on when you bought the car? If not, the person who sold it to you reset it just before they sold it to you.....
2010 gts have the identical engine but the alternator is different. Still it’s worth checking out. If you don’t have access to an (oscillo)scope for checking the sine wave I would recommend taking it to the dealer or auto electric shop and pay the diag fee. That way you either determine that’s the issue so you can fix it yourself or, find out what the issue is to save your wallet from the parts canon.
a bad cam signal throws the timing off which can affect the A/F ration and run the engine either rich or lean.
also, that p0100 means the codes were erased very recently and the computer hasnt completed a drive cycle. Let me guess, the check engine light wasn’t on when you bought the car? If not, the person who sold it to you reset it just before they sold it to you.....
06-10-2019, 11:31 AM
#3
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: WA
Posts: 4
Yes they said they were takeing care of the check engine light so I believe your right they just erased the codes that aint cool im takeing it in today and get it checked out they said they replaced a camshaft before i bought it and sometimes it has a sound like a lifter or sometbing knocking against the valve cover but then the noise goes away. Also is it normal for it not want to run at full power until 2000 rpm it feels like a delay in power until you get over 2000rpm im assuming thats due to the timing retardation?
06-10-2019, 01:32 PM
#4
Gentleman's Relish
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: AZ
Posts: 13,090
You may actually have a different problem than an alternator then.
Who replaced the camshaft?
What kind of cam did they put in (Stock replacement)?
The lack of power under a certain RPM could be a VCT Solenoid or a cam phaser that is failing or a timing chain that is off by a tooth (incorrect physical alignment of the cam shaft sprocket with the crank)
There are two VCT solenoids, one on top of each Valve cover towards the front of he valve cover (nearest the timing chains). They have an electrical connector that plugs into one. If one of those is failing (pretty common on older cars) it needs to be replaced. Replacing should be able to be done without removing the valve cover itself.
If it's a cam phase, there is not fix for that other than replacing it. It's more involved.
If it's a misaligned timing component, (cam sprocket), that can also be common if you don't know what you're doing when replacing a cam. You're supposed to use a wedge tool to hold the chain in place as you mess with the cam. If you don't, the chain can move a link or two in the process and throw the timing off for that side.
Before throwing parts at it, the valve covers both need to be taken off and the position of cam sprockets and condition of the phasers checked. If all that is ok, then look at the VCT solenoids. Again though, this should all be on the seller, not you.
Who replaced the camshaft?
What kind of cam did they put in (Stock replacement)?
The lack of power under a certain RPM could be a VCT Solenoid or a cam phaser that is failing or a timing chain that is off by a tooth (incorrect physical alignment of the cam shaft sprocket with the crank)
There are two VCT solenoids, one on top of each Valve cover towards the front of he valve cover (nearest the timing chains). They have an electrical connector that plugs into one. If one of those is failing (pretty common on older cars) it needs to be replaced. Replacing should be able to be done without removing the valve cover itself.
If it's a cam phase, there is not fix for that other than replacing it. It's more involved.
If it's a misaligned timing component, (cam sprocket), that can also be common if you don't know what you're doing when replacing a cam. You're supposed to use a wedge tool to hold the chain in place as you mess with the cam. If you don't, the chain can move a link or two in the process and throw the timing off for that side.
Before throwing parts at it, the valve covers both need to be taken off and the position of cam sprockets and condition of the phasers checked. If all that is ok, then look at the VCT solenoids. Again though, this should all be on the seller, not you.
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