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It’s currently a bit on the colder side now during this year so I’m not sure if weather could be a factor to trip some of extra codes on my car. These were the codes on my car. Does anyone have any pointers? P0118
P0351
P0405
What are your symptoms and did you pull the codes yourself or did a shop or parts store do it for you?? Reason being,if youve got a scan tool of your own that features a live data function,you can use it to further aid you in trouble shooting.Was the engine at operating temp when the ecu was scanned or was the engine cold?? What engine is in the car??
The symptoms include like a misfire maybe even just that one piston is not firing due to the COP. It also lacks highly of power and is running rough. It will start up and idle but if i put my foot on the gas it just sounds and feels like the power is restricted like gurgling. Bc the mustang is cold in this weather, I also believe that maybe the engine coolant temp sensor is another factor causing the engine to not run as it should.
If the egr valve is stuck in the closed position or its not opening at all,this can cause pinging during acceleration.If its stuck open,it'll create a vacuum leak & cause rough idling,hesitation,misfiring & all of the exhaust gases will be rerouted back into the engine & less oxygen will make its way to the engine.
If they're not too hard to remove,pull the COP off cylinder #1 and relocate it to a different cylinder then when you get both COP's installed,scan for codes again to see if the code followed the COP to its new location.IOW- If you swapped the suspect COP for the #6 COP & youve now got a code p0356 present,that verifies the COP is indeed bad.
The ECT sensor plays a huge role in fuel & timing values.When a ECT fails,it normally reads too cold & the fuel trim will be excessively rich.It may allow the engine to start & run when its cold,but once it warms up it will sometimes cause hard starting & no starting,if you shut the engine off then try to restart it.If you hold the gas pedal 1/4 to 1/3 of the way down while you got the key in the start position & it starts up after a couple seconds,that indicates the ECT is bad.If youve got a scan tool with a live data feature,it will tell you whether the ECT is
good or not,since it should show a temp reading above 180°+,with the engine at operating temp.
I'm using Bama Mustang X4/SF4 tuner/flasher that has the ability to read DTC codes and clear them. I also have a 4.0 Vortech supercharged. I figured out that some rats have chewed on the wiring harness near the passenger fuel rail and I used a thicker gauge wiring to splice them back together which I believe isn't the best thing to do bc there is a resistance difference. So what I'm going to do now rewire it with the proper gauge wiring. It fixed the one error code P0118 - Engine coolant temperature sensor circuit. The main concern is the symptom for the ignition coil error code which symptom is Engine misfire may be present or intermittent which is definitely what is happening. I'm trying to see if maybe the rewire will fix some issues. Maybe the coil on plug (COP) is actually bad but i will have to troubleshoot and will update. If you have any pointers or better ideas, please feel free to let me know! Also below is attached where the wiring was ate
The edit button should be in the same location under your posts as the quote,multi quote,etc buttons are.If not present,you may have to have a minimum number of posts before you are allowed to edit & before the button will show up?? If thats the case,its likely a small number like 5 or 10 posts.I cant remember if it was a requirement or not.
Good to hear you found the wiring issue.Yes its best to use the same gauge wiring as oem.Another thing you can try for the COP is to disconnect the harness from it and see if it makes the engine run any different.If no engine change or drop in idle occurs once disconnected,it means that cylinder isnt firing,since you should notice a difference with one cylinder disabled.If theres an issue with the injector for that cylinder,it can also cause the code.A noid light or test light can be used to verify if the injector is firing is not by plugging the noid light in then cranking the engine while watching the light.If it flashes repetitively,while the engine is cranking or while its running,the injector is firing.A cylinder balance test could be used on the Foxbody & 94-95 Mustangs to check for a bad or non pulsing injector,but Im not sure how its done or if it can be done on 96+ models??
Last edited by wbrockstar; Dec 27, 2019 at 07:09 AM.
Okay so the problem is fixed after I respliced and used regular butt connectors. I look deeper into it and rats ate into the wiring for the COP. The car is running perfectly now! I just need to figure out ways to deter the rats bc its a problem here during the winter. Do you have any suggestions for that?
Well,with the engine bay being an open to atmosphere environment,from the underside, I doubt you could prevent them from crawling into the compartment.From a little research,it appears this is a problem that began to occur on a more frequent basis starting in 2008 because of the materials used to make the wire insulation.It used to be manufactured with petroleum based ingredients,but its now being manufactured with soy based ingredients.Because of this,rodent damage has increased.Some have used mothballs or cotton swabs soaked in peppermint oil to help.Covering the wires with looms made of a harder or impenetrable material can also help.
2008 Mustang Running Irregular with 3 Error Codes
