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Seized engine on 99'

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Old Jun 2, 2020 | 07:40 AM
  #1  
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Default Seized engine on 99'

Hey everyone! I've been eyeing this 99' Mustang Convertible for a while now. At 500$ with 100k miles seems like a good bargain. The biggest issue seems to be that the engine is seized.

Im looking to learn how to work on cars and would love to learn on a 90s mustang.

I understand there are some simple things I can do to try to un-stick the motor. 1) remove all the plugs, 2) disconnect the the battery, 3) with a breaker bar, and socket on the crankshaft nut, rotate the engine clockwise. 4) add penetrating oil through the spark plug wells.

Whats the likelihood of this working and actually having a functioning engine. At this price point would it be worth to try and install a new engine?

My main question is where exactly is the crankshaft bolt on this engine. I cant really tell through YouTube or photos. If someone can point me in the right direction on where the bolt is and how to access it that would be really helpful!

Old Jun 2, 2020 | 07:54 AM
  #2  
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$500 for a solid convertible roller is a good deal.

It would be almost impossible to go too far backwards on that deal especially if it can be made roadworthy again with an engine swap.

As far as the crankshaft nut, it is on the bottom pulley of the engine but I would plan on it being the worst case scenario and the engine is junked.

Check for hacked up wiring and rust. If either of these are present in any significant quantity, do yourself a favor and walk away. A car like that is not one you want to cut your teeth on especially without a mentor.
Old Jun 2, 2020 | 08:16 AM
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Originally Posted by fastbackford351
$500 for a solid convertible roller is a good deal.

It would be almost impossible to go too far backwards on that deal especially if it can be made roadworthy again with an engine swap.

As far as the crankshaft nut, it is on the bottom pulley of the engine but I would plan on it being the worst case scenario and the engine is junked.

Check for hacked up wiring and rust. If either of these are present in any significant quantity, do yourself a favor and walk away. A car like that is not one you want to cut your teeth on especially without a mentor.
I will go and take a look at the car. I think at this price point even if I fail to get it running it will be a good learning experience. My friend and I want to learn about fixing and working on cars. We have a few friends that are mechanically inclined and they could point us in the right direction if we get stuck. I'll post some photos once I go take a look at it my self. Thanks for the advice btw!
Old Jun 2, 2020 | 10:36 AM
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Really hard to say why and engine is "seized". What exactly does that mean? How did it get that way? Is the starter motor simply not able to rotate the engine?

Is it due to internal corrosion? This could happen if the car/engine were in a flood, for example, and allowed to sit for a long time with water inside. Or was this do to a mechanical failure? For example of the car threw a rod.

Unless you can get a clear understanding from the seller what happened, I would plan for to get a replacement engine from a scrap yard, or on Craigslist/eBay. The cost would be minor as compared to rebuilding the existing lump that's in there. You didn't mention if the car is an automatic or manual transmission. Knowing that would be helpful. I see the car is in New York. You want to make certain that the car is solid (rust is what kills most of these). The exterior panels may not be rusty, but check the shock towers, engine frame rails, floor pans, etc.
Old Jun 3, 2020 | 01:32 PM
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If it's seized from flood damage, don't bother. Cost to get that puppy road worthy again will far outweigh the value. Especially when you'll have to deal with electrical issues. That car is nothing special to really invest that kind of time/money into.
Old Jun 8, 2020 | 12:50 PM
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JUST so everyone knows. The engine was cranked by hand last year.

Ok so short story is I got the car for 400$ not talking about the crank issues.

Issue is now the tow truck driver that delivered it didnt have the key when he got here then i gave it to him so he could turn the wheel.

battery was disconnected when the key was put in and it wont come out. hooked up a battery to see if it would unlock the key it does not. I can cycle through all the stages. Theres no starter so i dont have to worry about that.

The theft light also blinks rapidly in the 2nd stage of the key. are these things related.

If anyone knows please help.

im nervous to get the starter it needs and do all of these other things until i can get the key out


Old Jun 8, 2020 | 12:59 PM
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PATS (passive anti-theft system) on this era of Mustangs can be a problem. Basically the key has a RFID chip in it, and the PATS receiver must receive a signal or no start/flashing light. Key could be a replacement that was not programmed, or could be a problem with the control module. Nothing to keep the key from being removed however that I am aware of.

When you have the ignition key in the off position, does the wheel lock?
Old Jun 8, 2020 | 09:07 PM
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OK good news. I figured out that to get the key out you need to push the lever on the right side of the wheel as you turn the hey towards you to release the key on manuals.

More good news after getting the key out I tried the 2nd key that was provided and boom it worked. OK great i spent 3 hrs getting a key out but now i know how it all works and have no theft light issues

NEXT this is where I have 2 questions.

1. After pulling the covers on the spark plugs 2 of them came out with the metal from the inside of the tube still stuck on top of the spark plug. any way to salvage this? Photos attached.

2. All the spark plugs are a pain to get to. How do i now get marvel mystery oil down into those spark plugs efficiently. Any suggestions?

You guys have been such a big help thank you.



Old Jun 9, 2020 | 07:28 AM
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Ehh..you're kind of hosed there but it's only a mouse turd to leap over. You can trim the wire back and basically rebuild the connection but I usually go with the path of least resistance. Buy a new set and be done with it.

As far as getting the oil down into the chamber, a length of the appropriate sized hose stuck to the end of a funnel will do the trick.
Old Jun 10, 2020 | 12:17 AM
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Originally Posted by fastbackford351
Ehh..you're kind of hosed there but it's only a mouse turd to leap over. You can trim the wire back and basically rebuild the connection but I usually go with the path of least resistance. Buy a new set and be done with it.

As far as getting the oil down into the chamber, a length of the appropriate sized hose stuck to the end of a funnel will do the trick.
Fastback ford, thanks for the tip on using the a hose. Trying to use a spray bottle just did not work AT ALL. Took a lot of time to get the hose into each spark plug hole but i got it and got marvel mystery oil into each plug hole.


Now- I have 2 more questions. I couldnt figure out from google.

1. 80% Sure I should be turning the crank by hand clockwise. To the right basically. Correct?

2. I THINK I got the crankshaft nut moving a bit after using a breaker bar. now the spindle thing where the belt would go. If you imagine where the bolt is in the middle - that ring on the outside....
When I turn the crankshaft bolt I dont see anything else moving. Is this a problem? I figured turning the bolt would make it move so I might be completely mistaken.

Now I had wiggled it a little to the left - counter clockwise... When I did that it almost felt like the nut was getting very loose. Is that ok?

Im very sorry if these questions are dumb. Even google couldnt save me haha.

Thanks!





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