Underdrive Pullies
#16
RE: Underdrive Pullies
Installation was pretty simple if you have a manual transmission. Put car in 5th gear and parking brake on tight.
Leave the car on the gound and work from the top. (1) Loosen the water pump bolts (2) loosen and shift the belt
out of the way - no need to fully remove it (3) use a long handled 1/2" ratchet (16-18") to loosen the balancer bolt
(which seems easier said then done as the engine will turn a little bit until all of the play is out of the drive train),
about 3/4" - but don't take it off yet (4) use a 3", 3 jaw gear puller attached to the balancer at the lips on there for that
purpose and using a ratchet wrench, pull the balancer off (5) remove the bolt and balancer - should come off easy
(6) remove the water pump pulley (7) fill the keyway on the balancer with hitemp silicone gasket maker (8) install
pulley and tighten 1/2" with the x-tra long bolt (washer?), then put the new stock bolt in and tighten fully (9) torque the
balancer bolt down (here you may want to cheat some, as the new Ford spec is complicated and really makes little sense
as the torque should be fairly precise, which Ford's method is not) - its spec is 116-121ft/lbs, 118 is good; tighten it to
75ft/lbs, loosen 1/4 turn, the tighten to 105 ft/lbs and finally to 118 ft/lbs, which takes a fair amount of effort as agian
you have to take the play out of the drive line (a 1/2" torque wrench with a 3" extension and 18mm 6pt socket is the
ticket to success) (10) install the new pump pulley and lightly tighten the bolts (11) reinstall the belt (12) torque the
water pump pulley bolts to 18 ft/lbs (13) start car and make sure all is right. If done correctly, 45 minutes after
starting you will be done.
Leave the car on the gound and work from the top. (1) Loosen the water pump bolts (2) loosen and shift the belt
out of the way - no need to fully remove it (3) use a long handled 1/2" ratchet (16-18") to loosen the balancer bolt
(which seems easier said then done as the engine will turn a little bit until all of the play is out of the drive train),
about 3/4" - but don't take it off yet (4) use a 3", 3 jaw gear puller attached to the balancer at the lips on there for that
purpose and using a ratchet wrench, pull the balancer off (5) remove the bolt and balancer - should come off easy
(6) remove the water pump pulley (7) fill the keyway on the balancer with hitemp silicone gasket maker (8) install
pulley and tighten 1/2" with the x-tra long bolt (washer?), then put the new stock bolt in and tighten fully (9) torque the
balancer bolt down (here you may want to cheat some, as the new Ford spec is complicated and really makes little sense
as the torque should be fairly precise, which Ford's method is not) - its spec is 116-121ft/lbs, 118 is good; tighten it to
75ft/lbs, loosen 1/4 turn, the tighten to 105 ft/lbs and finally to 118 ft/lbs, which takes a fair amount of effort as agian
you have to take the play out of the drive line (a 1/2" torque wrench with a 3" extension and 18mm 6pt socket is the
ticket to success) (10) install the new pump pulley and lightly tighten the bolts (11) reinstall the belt (12) torque the
water pump pulley bolts to 18 ft/lbs (13) start car and make sure all is right. If done correctly, 45 minutes after
starting you will be done.
#17
RE: Underdrive Pullies
JoeJP Those arent the correct torque specs.
Tighten to 66lbs.
Losen 360 degrees
Tighten to 37lbs
Tighten an additional 90 degrees.
I got the same specs from steeda(Who get all the info on this car directly through fords technology program) Also alldata (a repair manual used by shops) says the same specs.
Now if you have an auto like me you will need to remove the plug on the front driver side of the tranny to geta long socket in to hold the torque converter from spinning while the harmonic ballancer pulley is getting torqued.
I did feel instant power, i dont really look at gas milage in this car and it did improve my et by 1.5, im sure i could of did better also.
Tighten to 66lbs.
Losen 360 degrees
Tighten to 37lbs
Tighten an additional 90 degrees.
I got the same specs from steeda(Who get all the info on this car directly through fords technology program) Also alldata (a repair manual used by shops) says the same specs.
Now if you have an auto like me you will need to remove the plug on the front driver side of the tranny to geta long socket in to hold the torque converter from spinning while the harmonic ballancer pulley is getting torqued.
I did feel instant power, i dont really look at gas milage in this car and it did improve my et by 1.5, im sure i could of did better also.
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